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madkaw last won the day on September 7

madkaw had the most liked content!

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About madkaw

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    bloomington IN
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    class 1 locomotive engineer

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    1971240z complete
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  1. Ideally yes . It also seems odd to me and I am going to re trace my steps again tomorrow . As I said I have quite a bit shaved off the head and .005 off the block , so that would add slack. Even knowing that I still scratch my head a little. I even have the shiny links to reference and I also counted pins .
  2. About a day away from MN/47 part 2. Just finished adjusted chain guides and tensioner to take up some slack! I gained about an 1/8” or so on the chain tensioner which meant the plunger wouldn’t be hanging out as far. I probably have about .030 removed from the total distance , so the slack was real. It actually seemed more prevalent then my L24 set up where I had as much as .050 removed. This time around I’m installing my newly acquired G- Force T-5 . It has a McLeod hydraulic TOB , we will see how that works . Also bought these sweet CV axles from Datsun Garage. Very nice pieces . This might be a whole new driving experience 😎
  3. Budget in another 10$ per rod for sizing. You need to resize the rid big ends if replacing with ARP. Cutting the head face is a straight forward process. It’s not risky , anymore risky than not resizing rod bolts or installing valve guides. Head needs to be perfectly flat and a fresh finish also helps guarantee a good seal with the HG. MY 2 cents .
  4. Might want to be sure what you intend to do with the motor since he’s going to shave it. Want to raise the CR more than just a .005 cut? Now is the time . It wouldn’t cost anymore to take .020 off than .005 Not even sure what I’m looking at with those seats . So that raised portion is actually part of the seat? WTF! Head looks pretty clean other than that.
  5. So here’s what I did . I guess I slept since then and couldn’t remember , but easy to see with an empty bay. Looks like I used the original supply line as my return since I ran a new 3/8” supply. A 1/4” line would be quite a bit bigger and would probably work.
  6. It goes to the vent box in the rear quarter . You should have 3 lines running along each other under the car .
  7. You have a tank vent line for sure . It goes to the other side of the engine bay to the vent valve . It’s larger then the return line . You could use it for now and do something else to vent the tank - maybe the smaller line could be the vent line.
  8. Another option might be to reutilize the evap line as your return line. I’m saying that without rereading the whole thread, but I know you were trying not to change stock configuration. The tank vent line is bigger than the return line and should be sufficient. Then you would have to do something else as far as tank vent
  9. Buy a wideband O2 sensor and install - it will make life much easier for you
  10. Might read this thread - might help https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/42960-triple-mikuni-thread/
  11. So rich you are washing the cylinder walls down and causing oil consumption? Gas mileage bad? Looks like a bit of both fuel and oil, but mostly carbon if it brushes off that easy. Have you checked your TPS setting? Might need to take a cruise somewhere and shut it off at cruise and then pull the plugs . Don’t let it idle before shutting it down. Everyone should invest the 200$ for a complete wideband set up. Takes a lot of the guess work out.
  12. I remember - vaguely- when I had a similar situation . It was something about the long jet assembly was no longer available but I had a carb with the longer ears . I believe I just redrilled the ears to the proper height to match the pivot point of the shorter jet assembly! So I just moved the holes up for the pin and adjust
  13. I’m going to just RUN IT!
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