AxtellZ

Bump up again- come on out Peoplez!!

Cool, i saw that late last night. Sat there hardly believing what i saw, figured i musta been trippin' ;-)

bumping it to the top..

WaHoo! Kyle's back! Missed you, bro'. i was just bitching about the email list being down so long... Nice to hear from you. Can't help with that mess above, other than to say it looks fairly well effed up.

I'd double check the float levels, make sure they are adjusted properly. One carb may be running out of fuel under load, causing the starvation..

Hi Mike- Any word on the list coming back? I realize that the forums can do all that the list did, and more... But it's too bad that many of the "listers" i was familiar with spend very little time on the site. I really miss some of those guys, and their input. I have saved many, many emails that have come in handy working on my cars- it seemed the email list was more of a rank of serious racers, mechanics, etc. who's opinions were extremely valuable (to me anyway). Thanks!

I too, can't recommend Charlie enough! His business is like buying from a friend or neighbor- he goes out of his way to be helpful. I've met Charlie at several Z events in the Northeast, he is one of the more pleasant people i have come across.

maybe points or condenser on the dizzy? Does it always miss, or only when warm, cold, etc? Coil could get funky when warm?

Pharmacist here.

Hey now, i just LOVE *Bush*!! Oh, you're talking politics.... I thought this was the "boobs" thread ;-)

When we replaced the floors on my 73, we were rather perplexed, as they were toast. Ended up using 4 cement blocks under each wheel. Jacked up under the crossmember as others have said, but rather than using jackstands, put 2 cement blocks side by side under each wheel. Got a taller jack & did it again, with 2 more blocks on top (facing the other direction) It was EXTREMELY stable, and allowed plenty of room to work.

that would be "replumb" the water lines. My 73 i ran some heater hose temporarily to bypass the manifold. Also, the phenolic spacer between carb & intake *may* be a different thickness, so you may need the old ones.

Ayan- first, as Carl pointed out- check out ztherapy. They can supply any part you need, and all the advise to match. Essentially, all you need is to bolt the old SU's on. You need the linkage that goes between the 2 carbs from the earlier style. Also need to hook up the throttle return springs to the heat shield underneath. Intakes are fine, fuel rail, etc all work the same. You will need to "replumg" the water lines. I simply unscrewed the fitting from the thermostat housing & went to find a brass plug the same size, and rigged a plug at the backend too. Pretty simple all in all. Any problems, give a shout. Are you going to the z show at Appleby college near Toronto August 8th?

Generally, yes it's a loose valve; no it's not a big concern, actually pretty normal. Better too loose than set too tight (some valve slap noise beats a burned valve) Have you pulled the valve cover just to look, to make sure theres not a cracked cam oil spray bar, or some such?

Sounds like (no pun intended) valve clatter. How long since the valves were adjusted?

Yeah, sorry i had to fly outta there. Brought my brother along & we both had to be back for family time before the wives started getting out the emasculator.. Sorry i missed visiting with everyone- but be sure to come next year for the convention (pretty sure the first week of August 2005- when the Glen is available) emasculator= device used to make a bull into a steer, for those who didn't grow up on a farm :nervous:

Good to zee you there, Keith. Ed, sorry i missed you, i got roped into judging too! Some fine cars, for sure. Oh, Keith- in case you missed it- "Old Yeller" took first place in the 260/280 daily driver peoples choice :classic:

Glad to admit i didn't know, but... Dear Straight Dope: I keep running into a word in online chat areas, used to refer to annoying people in the room. The word is "snert." Any idea where it came from? --IGiveIn SDSTAFF Dex replies: The word "snert" was coined early in the days of online chats. AOL says that it is "really a disrespectful, dirty word for someone who doesn't abide by TOS or is otherwise irritating in some way..." Is it an acronym? These were some responses when the question was put to AOL's online staff: Sexually Nerdishly Expressive Recidivistic Trolls Sexually-frustrated Naive Egotistical Repulsive Twerp Sexually Needy, Emotionally Repressed Troll Sexually Nerdish Egotistical Rude Teenager (Note: One does NOT have to be a teenager to be a SNERT, only have the maturity level of a teen.) Sexually-frustrated, Naive, Egocentric, Repulsive Teen Snot Nosed Egocentric Retentative Turd Stupid No good Evil Rotten TOS violator Students Not Eagerly Receiving Teaching Snot Nosed Egotistically Rude Teenagers Sexually Needy, Emotionally Repressed Teenager Snot Nosed Egotistical Raging Teen SDSTAFF Lara comments that Snert is the name of Hagar the Horrible's dog. My guess is that it is a portmanteau word (Lewis Carrroll Lives!) from "snob," "snot" and "nerd." In any case, it is considered really, really insulting and should not be used (except under extreme provocation, requiring two Hail Marys and three Our Fathers for absolution.) --SDSTAFF CKDextHavn Straight Dope Science Advisory Board [Comment on this answer.]

So, which did you choose? OEM, or aftermarket? Satisfied with the result?

Well, let me *qualify* that! I live in a 140-some year old home. First home in this town with an indoor "water closet"! Now, the toilets here aren't THAT old, but they are probably 40 to 80+ years old. Old, simple- if i can fix 'em any fool should be able to. As for SU's- i'll admit i feared even touching them at first! But i read alot, got Scott's first tune-up video, and dove in. And i've found they are essentially as simple as an old toilet (insert "gas" joke here:_____________) Man, this place is great

Huh. Been a few years since i replaced a mech pump- is there anyway the actuating lever that makes it pump is out of whack, and not contacting the cam to pump properly??? When you crank the engine, with the fuel line removed at the pump, can you hear it "sucking"? No pun intened there, folks. I'm stumped, i need some coffee to think this out some more!

I'm with Kmack.. I no nothing about webers, but i think its way too rich. Possibly really weak ignition- what's the state of that? Do you know much about the webers? Backing out the screws 5 turns- does that lean, or richen the mixture? Wish i could help more, but thats why i run SU's- simple as a toilet!

Hmmmm. Not sure if the pump would need to be "primed"- don't *think* so, but maybe it won't draw if its totally dry..... When you blew air into the line entering the carb- did it flow through the rail & back to the pump (could you hear/feel it there?) Or did it just blow up & out to the other carb?? That would indicate a blockage from pump to rail, or early in the rail itself i'd think..

Sure as hell a good investment, those "Mechanix" gloves!! Me, i'm too damn lazy/cheap/stoopid to own my own set:stupid: But i've used 'em, and thinking about it- i should go buy a pair before i adjust my valves next. Do as i say, not as i do...

I thinks i'm confuzed:ermm: You pulled lines where=no gas? I'd start behind the new mechanical pump (between the pump & the tank). Drop the line that goes into the pump in a container of fuel- Does it draw fuel from that container? If it does, the blockage would be between the pump & tank. If not- your mech pump is bad (shouldn't be if new!) or theres a blockage from pump to carbs. Did you check the floats, or needles in the carbs? Filter screens in the banjo fittings on the float bowls? Will fuel (or air) flow from the pump, to the inlet of the carb bowls? As i reread your post, it seems your tank pickup may not be feeding gas- if thats the case though, it should work fine feeding from another fuel container into the pump... It's gotta be something simple- let us know. JA