AxtellZ

That's made by Energy Suspension, right? If so, its what i put in my 73 a couple years ago. I also did springs & struts at the time- it drives like its on the proverbial rails! My car was at a friends Muffler/Brake shop at the time, so i had him install it all (i think about $300US). It can be done at home, plenty of us do, providing you have basic tools, space, and ability. I would definately recommend urethane, especially for a track or autoX car. also, i just got the following price quote on the kit for my 74- told him i would post his info here, so thanks for starting this thread! Here his email: -> Kit will included: front & rear control arm bushings, front strut rod bushings, front & rear bump stops, rack & pinion bushings, differential carrier mustache bar bushings, steering coupler bushings, front end links, tie rod end boots, transmission crossmember bushings, rear sway & end link bushings. Cost $136.00 + $8.00 shipping Thanks You, Carlos Don Bonwitt Enterprises Inc. 14395 Sw 139 CT #109 Miami FL 33186 Ph. 305-251-4594 Ebay id: competitionwarehouseusa Paypal account: carlos@competitionwarehouseusa.com I'll be ordering when the snow hits NY- *this is the exact kit in Victoria British that lists for $219.00! Hope that helps some of you, Jeremiah

My 260 had a fair-to-decent sunroof installed 2 owners ago. It was showing age, mostly glass & seal, but no rust to speak of. When the last PO had the car painted, they installed a new sunroof that really looks good, IMO. Now the car rarely sees rain, is stored inside, and gets taken care of with pride- little chance this one will rust either. However, i have seen several that were just NASTY!! Plexiglass, caulk used to seal up around them, just ugly:sick: The one downside of mine, is that i lose about 3/4 inch of headroom- okay unless you want to wear a helmet:stupid: Also detracts from the resale value to the true collector, but mine is staying as-is. Jeremiah

Oh yes, i also forgot- WD40 is okay, but for penetrating oil, Kroil is the best i've found ( www.kanolabs.com ). Slop the penetrant on & let it sit, repeat a few times. Then try removal- using a screwdriver, whack it firmly into place with a hammer, then try turning it. Also can use GOOD vicegrips (be sure the "teeth" are sharp), or even a drill to remove the heads if all else fails, then you can remove the light assembly & get access to the stuck screw(s) to remove the mess when the light is out of the way. But most importantly, if you're not going to tackle it now- keep applying a penetrating oil till you do, and when you put it back together, apply anti-seize! Good luck, Jeremiah PS- Z lights are kinda weak to begin with, you can probably leave the high beams on & noone would noticeLOL

And another note- My 73 had one side out, i spent 4 hours getting through the crusty mess to remove the bulb, only to find it was fine. I had a bad fuse!! I suggest you swap the Left & Right side fuses to verify its actually the bulb first! The good news was that yes, i replaced the screws so they can now come off with a socket or nut-driver, AND they have anti-seize.. If all else fails, cut a nice slot in the crusty screwheads with a Dremel cut-off wheel, then use a big screwdriver to remove them. Good luck! Jeremiah

I've gotta think nearly EVERYONE is going to go with a manual transmission if looking for race-type driving.. That said, i have a 73 with the original auto- i planned to put in a 5 spd, but then i bought the 74... so, i left the auto alone, so my wife can drive the 73 and not complain how hard it is to drive around here with a manual. If it were my choice- 5 speed for sure. Benefits surely outway the drawbacks. Maybe you can outfit one of the clutchless "paddle-shift" racing transmissions??

as far as access to the guage- i believe in the 71 you can pull out the glove box, then reach in and remove the screw holding each guage in place. Once out, take a look-see, just a couple screws to pull her apart to get to the bezel. As far as the pressure dropping at idle, its normal in the L6 anyway. Both of my carz (73 & 74) run about 60 to 75psi when revving, but drop to 10 or 20 at idle. From what i've been told, that is by design, and normal.

I am guessing its a battery/alternator/VR problem. I would take the batt & alt into your local parts store to have them tested. ( My 2cents is on the alternator) The dim light, weak spark/ignition, sounds like it's just short on juice. By having the parts tested, you can avoid just guessing & tossing $$ at the problem. Good luck, let us know what you find Jeremiah

Hi Ed, You might try Barry Brown at Riter Restorations in East Rochester (585)385-4151. Not sure if they do their own, or farm it out, but they may be able to help.. Jeremiah

Dunno about the charge light, but guess it would be the alternator/VR going or gone bad. As far as the starter, i'd guess it to be going out too. My 74 260 got like that, some days she'd spin the first time, others i'd hit the igniton a dozen times to get a start. Like yours, when it cranked, it worked fine. I got a rebuilt starter from www.rockauto.com for about $18US, she hits first time every time since then! Good luck, Jeremiah

There is a company here in western NY called NY Strip. They use a high-volume, low pressure plastic bead blast, so no metal warping or stretching. It won't take out rust or body filler i guess, but does a nice job on paint removal. They quoted about $700US for a Z sized body, and will epoxy prime for another 5 or 600. Eventually that's where my 73 will go, i'll let everyone know how it works out.

and what he means is: When she's 15, you wish she was 36, but when she's thirty-six, you wish she was 24. 15 36 24 Sorry about that Bonnie:classic:

headlight buckets, yes. valance pieces, no. the valance changed size & shape as the bumpers grew larger and the turn signals moved.

Both! this is my homepage, both at home and at work... I am sure the other pharmacists just love to see it when they log on, and to see me, my wife and my Z as my wallpaper.... Maybe i AM an addict- now where's that Methadone??

Ditto. 'nuff said. Good luck- that's some quandry to be in, isn't it? As my father would call "rich man's troubles"..

My name is Jeremiah, and I too, am a Z addict:love: I bought my 73 in 1993, after lusting for a 240 since i was about 7 years old. She was in decent shape, but had usual New York rust:cry: I spent 8 years driving, playing, fixing...got the mechanicals finished, new floors, carbs, springs & struts, poly bushings. I finally got her in line to have the bodywork done and painted- had to schedule 10 months ahead! After 9 months, one of the guyz in the local club ( www.zccr.net ) had to sell his 260. So, being the addict type, i jumped at the chance to buy ANOTHER z, using my saved body/paint money. After all, he had just painted, etc! So my 73 still waits, but she is not forgotten.. Just have to wait till 4 kids spare me enough $ again :sleepy: And when i'm not working or toying with the carZ, i spend my computer time here (and searching for ebay z bargains)- This site is my homepage- anyone else?

Yes, its the BR wiring that causes the car to run only in the "start" position. The bad newz: i can't tell you the correct wiring procedure. I do know that on my 73 a few years back, 1 wire from the BR would wiggle loose occasionaly, when that happened it would only run when at "start". Try a search of this site about balast resistor, start, etc.. i think there's a few threads that will help you. Sorry i can't help more, good luck!

I agree with Carl, that "sounds" like a rocker/valve area rattle- Have you pulled the cover yet? In my experience, i always expect the worse, only to find these cars are tough little buggers, and have thusfar had only minor troubles... I wish the same for you. Good luck! Jeremiah

I'm with Keith on this one! If you have any means at all to stash parts, keep all you can- if for no reason other than Ebay- it's amazing what will sell. And i can't tell the amount of times i have needed some obscure part, or had a friend that did. A gauge, a knob, some interior panel, light, the list goes on and on... Hell, i've been known to send distant friends climbing through the mountains to an old parts car to fend off snakes and bees, just to find a certain gauge, or maybe turn signal switch.....Hey Keith, have you heard this story beforeLOL ? You, my friend, are a great man. Thanks again for your help!! Anyway, if you can part it into storable boxes- keep all you can! my $0.02US, Jeremiah

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2414548893 for 260, but i *think* it would fir 70-78 Z cars..

Well, yes, they do look better on the Z- but we hoped they were some rare, valuable (sellable) piece. Of course on Ebay, you can always find someone glad to overpay! Thanks for the help! Jeremiah

OK, i guess i am impaired, but the pic appeared this morning for me:stupid: So i have put it in my gallery, since i can't seem to make this happen here at work. George- those rims are known as "Turbine" style here, i have a set exactly like that on my silver 73:love: I believe that there were a few manufacturers that made similar wheels; Appliance, Western Wheels, etc. I got mine on Ebay a few years back- Thanks, Jeremiah

Damn!! Glad to see you're back:classic: Hadn't chimed in yet, as i have the same thoughts and prayers as everyone else here.....but know that there are loads of friends here pulling for you! Take care, be well, and good luck in getting back behind the wheel. Zya, Jeremiah

Hi all, we just picked up an early 74 260Z, rust bucket- but some useful parts at least. Has rims i've not seen before, can anyone identify them? (14 inch) I'll try to attach the pic... again..

You guys remember back in grammar school- you have a piece of paper, on it written: "how do you keep an idiot busy for hours?" "(see other side)" It was written, Duh, on both sides..........................flip, flip, flip, flip Today, it's clicky, clicky, clicky, clicky................ You've been hadROFL