mlc240z

2year olds. 25 year olds you can just open the door and throw in some raw meat. They'll survive. Energetic 2year olds you have to catch and then try to feed.

Just to be sure, you did bleed the brakes when you replaced the calipers? If you didn't, follow d240zx2's advice and bleed them. If that doesn't solve it, might have to check your master cylinder. If you suspect rust in the system a rusted MC bore could chew up the seals. If you're relatively new to working on cars, PLEASE either hook up with someone more knowledgeable or take it in to a shop. Brakes are way too important a system to guess at or use as a learning experience. Not meant as a knock, just would hate to see you or someone else get hurt from not doing it properly.

Also make sure when you replaced the calipers, you didn't swap sides. The bleeder valve should be at the top of the caliper.

Was missing cotter pin on passenger side and found same size at ACE Hardware, cheap, so don't worry about that. Pull them and take to locksmith with your set of keys. Did the same for my hatch lock and they were able to clean and redo the tumbler for about $25 if I recall. Works great.

Nasty idea, don't even know if it's mechanically possible but....... a crack or hole internally in the engine which is allowing coolant to bypass the thermostat? Allowing constant flow of coolant even with a closed thermo?

Sorry, don't know on the 94 ford, but i just got shivers with the flashback to the '70's oil shortages. Had to "suck the straw" a few times between the cars I owned to have enough for travel to work.

OK, I'll bite again. If you've hopefully ruled out ignition and fuel. This is out there but how about an exhaust restriction? Anything in the exhaust that could have gone fubar? Maybe don't remember but hit a speed bump and crimped a pipe, muffler rusted internally and collapsed?

Found that most problems are helped by a "walkaway". Or at least your mental state. Beats Prozac!

Maybe the tensioner wasn't working/broke/wasn't tight enough to begin with and you jumped a tooth? Might leave it overly tight on tensioner side and 1 extra link on slack side. Did the timing shift?

Always heard this with carbed, non-ECU cars. I can believe a benefit if running WOT will expose passages in a carb that do not normally get opened up around town (secondary jets, etc). Possibly clear some accumulated gunk that never has the chance to be pushed thru. Doubt this would apply to SU's, but who knows. Seafoam, ATF, water or similar from all reports does clear the combustion chamber, don't know if a couple of minutes would be enough time tho.

Nyah-Nyah, told ya. Don't know why but I thought you did this long ago.

JC Whitney supposedly sold the proper size/profile relatively inexpensive but I'll be damned if I could find it on their site.

That first road ride IS awesome, isn't it? It took me 6 years to finally get mine on the road, but one turn of the key and the first shift thru 2nd was all I needed. Congrats, she's a beauty.

That would be my guess on a tranny, could slow synchros down enough to cause bad engagement. On a diff, probably something similar but more likely eventual seal leakage from the constant bathing. Don't know enough to confirm, someone smarter, more experienced please jump in.

Mikez73, Don't install all poly bushings on the TC rod if you don't have a complete 'Kit' with the nylon? ball for that socket. Just go with all new rubber. Have heard all kinds of nastys (broken rods) with all poly bushings. Installed that kit with the recommended ball, socket and RUBBER rear bushing.

My bad, the ones I bought were actually from Too Intense Restorations, not MSA. The mind is going, sorry. BTW, wouldn't recommend them due to the size differences.

I bought the squeegees from Too Intense Restorations for $47 +ship. The leg that attaches is too tall for a stock 71 240Z stainless strip. I had to cut them down to make them fit. Also, the curved piece that wipes the window is shorter than the original. It works but you need to modify. I wouldn't recommend them. I've gotten replies to my thread that the MSA rubber is an exact fit, coming in OEM Nissan bags.

Might want to go for this as long as you're thinking about replacing alternator and voltage regulator. It's $122 plus shipping. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SRC19/12-4068 It's Dave's adapter and a 60 amp Bosch alternator. Got it, installed it and left the original regulator so it still looks kinda like stock. More amperage, Plug and Play, and throws a charge at idle instead of having to rev to charge.

AFAIK, you fill it until it hits the level of the FILL (upper) plug on the rear cover, not the plastic vent tube. I think if you go thru the vent tube, you have to measure the amount and only put in that much. You're presently overfilled, I believe.

Don't know if anyone's interested, but just bought a classic replica NJ inspection sticker for $15 plus shipping. www.InspectionSticker.net Looks like they cover all states from 1928 to 1986 plus some military, gas ration, old logos and WW2 stickers, etc. Picked up one for May 1971 to match my build date. Just thought it'd be cool to have displayed on windshield.

As a kid (long time ago), had a neighbor with a late 60's Jaguar XKE. Loved the look of that car. Fast forward to high school, had a friend whose father owned a bar. Money. He bought said friend a brand new 72 240Z. Can you say JEALOUSY! Liked the similarity to the Jag. Then fell in love with the style of the Z. Was driving a 1963 Buick LeSabre. 'Nuff said.

Bite the bullet and send them here for a refurb. You won't regret it. www.ztherapy.com After 39 years as an original owner, you only think they run good. When you get them back, they will be better than new. Absolutely amazing!

Excellent solution, OZ Don't think I'll be driving too much in the winters here (road salt will awaken the rust monster), but this is a good option.

Do NOT use white lithium. Any auto parts store will have bearing grease, whether regular or synthetic. You need a grease that will withstand higher temps. Lithium is good for lubricating parts like hinges, hood latches etc.

Roger at Zbarn http://www.zbarn.com/ should be able to fix you up. spitz, you beat me to it.