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mlc240z

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Everything posted by mlc240z

  1. glad it worked!! i use the old race on top of the new race. place the new into position and the old inverted (thin edge against thin edge) at first to start. once you get the new below the face of the hub, pull off old and place in same direction as new. tap on top of the old race to seat. by inverting you don't damage the new race's bearing surface. by placing in same direction, when you finally get the new seated you now have the bottom of the old jutting out so you have a surface to pop the old out with a punch. it's difficult to explain well, but you'll see why placing in the same direction is necessary when you go to extract the old.
  2. i don't have my microfiche cd yet but you might be able to still get these from the dealer. somebody might be able to look up the part#.
  3. wow, an Opel GT. they were pretty cool cars in their time.
  4. i just popped these off saturday. let them soak with PBBlaster for a while. i used a tapered chisel driven between the back of the studs and the center face of the rotor. tapped slowly and worked around the perimeter of the hub, a little at a time. the chisel acted as a wedge to separate the pieces.
  5. go with ZT. besides better quality parts and the video, you get to pick their brains when you install if you run into any problems. Bruce Palmer and the gang are good sources of info.
  6. doesn't leak oil, just blows a diaphram and pushes gas into the crankcase.
  7. the rear suspension is next on the agenda and you guys are scaring the wizz out of me!!!!!
  8. the PO had burnt my wiper motor up. even after disassembly (agreed it's very easy), refurbish and reassembly, i still had only slow speed and a chattering hi speed with no increase in speed (stuck brushes and burnt windings). even if i went to have the motor rebuilt, it wasn't a good candidate. i contacted John@baddogparts.com and bought a used replacement motor for about $45 IIRC. he tests them to make sure they operate and is an excellent guy to deal with. good, honest communication and fast shipping. it's still not 'fast' but at least it's true OEM speed. if your original is toast, try him.
  9. here's whatt i sent to KYB; Subject: Strut install I purchased 361002/361001 struts for my 1971 Datsun 240z. Installed 361002 front struts, tightened gland nut to proper torque. I found that I still had about 1/4-3/8" exposed threads on the gland nut between the nut and top of strut tube. The nut will not bottom out on the tube. I also know of at least 3 other car club members who have run into the same thing. Is this acceptable and normal for this application? Thanks, KYB's reply; Our nut will not bottom out like the oems. Our nut will use 3/4 of the threads on this model i didn't get 3/4 of the threads, but i am comfortable with it based on the feedback from the guys here. thanks all, bart
  10. mlc240z replied to Znut's topic in Help Me !!
    two bad plugs.
  11. dave, looks like the same setup, eibachs and kyb gr2's. new gland nuts came with struts and i did notice the fat angled washer inside. i put a coating of antiseize on the strut tube inner threads since the exposed threads have got to corrode eventually. tbk1, stock strut tubes, eibach prokit. only noticed about 1/4-1/2" lower in spring height. i've got an email out to kyb and i'll post what they say, if anything. thanks for the double-check, arne. just wanted to make sure i didn't miss something stupid. have to call this normal then.
  12. allright, just finished the right front KYB strut install and have the same exposed thread problem. doesn't seem right but gland nut is cranked down as much as possible. i guess with this flavor of strut that's the most it will go. i'm going to email KYB and see what they say.
  13. use a bigger hose. ditto on the pertronix. works like a charm.
  14. not if the pickup engine was fuel injected. pressure needs to be around 4lbs for '73 carbs.
  15. maybe it was wired to some type of kill switch in case of an accident to cut power so you didn't flambe`. sounds like it could have been routed towards the coil. good idea, by the way. see if there's a mystery piece of electrical hardware on the driver's side around the cut wire. bart
  16. sorry, must be an echo here. bart
  17. i love the pertronix setup. got mine for about $65. shop around. bart
  18. i love the pertronix setup. got mine for about $65 bart
  19. i hear you, enrique. but by the same token, we've all seen the stock market runs/consumer goods fads where the prices are driven outrageously high due to a 'feeding frenzy'. while i LOVE a gradual, steady, warranted increase in the value of my car and it's parts, i generally fear a panic increase. it would really hurt if you happened to need the parts in the middle of the crush. or it would really irk you if you were forced to pay the temporarily unrealistic price and soon after the market 'crashed'. as long as this price isn't the 'new' benchmark for this part, more power to the seller. bart
  20. mlc240z replied to RatMonger's topic in Introductions
    welcome, harass away!! if noone knows the answers, you'll at least be pointed to someone who might. bart
  21. When is @#$% Acceptable? There are only eleven quotes in history where the "F" word has been considered acceptable for use. They are as follows: 11. "What the @#$% do you mean we are sinking?" -- Capt. E.J. Smith of RMS Titanic, 1912 10. "What the @#$% was that?" -- Mayor Of Hiroshima, 1945 9. "Where did all those @#$%ing Indians come from?" -- Custer, 1877 8. "Any @#$%ing idiot could understand that." -- Einstein, 1938 7. "It does so @#$%ing look like her!" -- Picasso, 1926 6. "How the @#$% did you work that out?" -- Pythagoras, 126 BC 5. "You want WHAT!! on the @#$%ing ceiling?" -- Michelangelo, 1566 4. "Where the @#$% are we?" -- Amelia Earhart, 1937 3. "Scattered @#$%ing showers, my arse!" -- Noah, 4314 BC 2. "Aw c'mon. Who the @#$% is going to find out?" -- Bill Clinton, 1999 and a drum roll........ 1. "Geez, I didn't think they'd get this @%#*^ing mad." -- Sadaam Hussein, 2003
  22. believe it or not, i've seen a few like that out here. but then again this is jersey. bart
  23. if they're KYB GR-2's, 361001 is for the rear and 361002 is for the front. kinda counter-intuitive if you ask me!! bart
  24. high spring pressure sounds like a reasonable theory to me. bart
  25. unless, of course, he hasn't driven it yet! he might change his mind. bart
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