Daniel

Myself, I would prefer the SER240z electric assist fan. The reasons? If my car is running I know I am cooling. Cooler is not always better. I used to swap thermostats between 160 or 190 summer /winter. I soon found my car loves the 190 always. Next point is the "My lights dim at idle" Yeah,add the fan and a elec.pump and wonder why. I know the technology has changed but as I've said before---If you think you have out smarted the Datsun Engineers??? You better think darn hard!!

If it kills a battery in 30 min. I would think you would see smoke! Get yourself a 12v test light. The one I use has a clip on one end and that is attached to an icepick looking tool. Clip to the pos. on the battery. install the point in the battery pos cable. Now the tool is between the battery and cable. It will glow indicating current flow(short). Myself I start pulling fuses .The tester will no longer glow when the short is removed. I would look at starter and alternator. I would think anything else would smoke from that much load.

That #10 11o'clock is usually the once that snaps off when removing or tightening most z's are missing that one. I drove one for lotsa years without it. Try going to napa or such and buying a helicoil that locks in the hole and supplies threads. It looks like a spring. Any auto place knows about them. Oh! the thermo housing bolt closest to the valve cover is the next snap area. Try tighten a little loosen a little more all the way out. That back and forth clears/cleans the threads and can stop the snap.

Brakes rusted, old coolant and hoses,thermostat and belt, carb gunked from old fuel, battery and terminal need scraping and cleaning at both ends, oil and filter, air filter, fuel filter. Those are what I would check. Instead of carrying raw fuel I would use my tripometer as a fuel gauge. Points,cap,rotor are always a good item. Check to see how much it is to join AAA. Its probably less than a towing bill. Oh the tire rot and spare status. Crack the lugs as a test so you know you can move them before you find out different on the side of the highway. I think it sounds like a great adventure. OH__ A FIRE EXTINGISHER of the class ABC type. Cant wait to read of your journey. Have fun!!

I agree the light doesnt use the body as a ground path, My point was since the socket does not insulate the neg part of the socket from the fixture if the hot was incorrectly placed on the neg side the removal and rag insulator would allow testing. Check the status of the inside of the sockets. There is a small disc that holds the hot in place. By correct fuse of course I meant amp size and type.

With the sidelites loose from the car use a rag or such to make sure the lights are not touching anything metal . If you put your meter on a good car ground and the other probe touch various metal on the fixture and socket. If you read any voltage you know the ground on the fixture is really a positive. Hook up a test light to car ground and touch the center "hot' of the socket. It better glow. If the pulse you saw is correct, I cant say. Is the car a 240? if yes, then should not pulse. Why do you think the sidelites are your fuse poppers? Do the fuses pop with no bulbs installed in the sidelites? Also I hate to even ask but,we are sure the fuse is the correct one right?

Those are made by 3m. Common part. check lowes ,home depo,any electric supply.

Where in NC are you? I know a few parts cars around Charlotte.

Bottom,no tail and correct antenna

Doo lally huh? Over here we say " He's gone BambiKiller" It means the same thingROFL (sorry carl ,I had too:stupid: )

I have a friend who is a tech at the jeep dealer. A customer wanted some additional work done to a new Cherokee. That afternoon a storm comes up and the car is hit by lightning in the lot. Now the car turns over but no crank. After assuming all the electronics are fried and begining a swap he notices that even the new parts dont respond. After going up the ladder at jeep, he finally gets the right guy. The car metal is making a magnetized enviroment he says. It needs to be degaussed. My friend gets a degaussing tool from a TV repair man and runs it around the car. With all the original parts in the car, turns the key and RRRROOMM. Car is well.

V12 Horse, Your easiest fix is to replace the switch with another red or yellow indicator or black push button switch with black securing ring that will fit the hole. I assume it is just round under that metal plate. Radio shack will have it. It doesn't have to have a function. I once wired lights under the dash that lit the floor areas as 240s dont have those. VERY few people will know its not factory. Make it flash when the car is off and some will think its an alarm!

you're right Tomo. I have run headers/resonator to ansi over and under pipes for over 20 years. No problem. Sounds great. NOT loud. I love it. Oh, there are those that will tell you the ansi will fail due to whatever reason without the muffler. My first was a used gift-lasted 6 years. I now have over two decades on my second. I did put an ansi tip that was like a large oval shape ,same config,on another car. It was too loud for my taste.

Also keep in mind the fan belt either burnt or streached. Check status and tention. I have seen the plastic fans just crack loose due to age when all else was good. Hey,I think I just coined a new saying---we will call it ----PLASTIC ROT!-Seems kinda correct huh?

The foam is what the fabric is bonded to. It dries out and turns into a sand like gunk. You can't glue sand. When removing the headliner I put a large plastic tarp in the car. That foam and glue make a "gorilla snot" Vacuum often.

I would start with a good wire brush on all wire connections battery and starter. Hit the ground on the car as well as terminal. Perhaps heat=expansion enough to screw you up- cold=contraction/good enough connection. I am a believer in the hammer tap,its always got me home, But I tap the starter Not the solenoid. Solenoid is just a relay. Usually starter are brushes. On a stock 240 alt.The can easily be replaced on the car. Maybe your belt is loose.

My first guess being you are a 240 engine is remove the valve cover and check the oil rail across the camshaft.On each end there are little boxes ,thats where they split and kill 240's. 280's oil thru the cam and this was eliminated. While your there you may think about scrapping out that carbon/black sand looking crap. DO NOT!!!!!Loosening it WILL kill your motor.

The rear seal just pops out and the new goes in its that simple. An old mechanics trick for removing the pilot bushing. Fill the hole in the bushing where the input shaft (tranny)usually goes with grease. Use an old input shaft or something round and metal that diameter. Put it in the hole and tap it with a hammer. The grease in the hole will push the pilot bushing out as you hammer in. Cool huh?

Getting the flywheel resurfaced is just like turning the brake drums or rotors. It just provides a fresh smooth surface for the new clutch. I would suggest replacing the release bearing.It is supposed to be permanetly lubed. The fact you needed to lube it is not good. Also I would replace the rear main crankshaft seal. Its very easy and with the flywheel out it, you will never have a better time. If the old one should leak it will waste your new clutch.. I know you want it back together ,but if its done any way other than correct you will be in there again sooner than you thought.

1) get phone book and look up "Chrome/Polishing" 2) Take cover to that man with correct high power tools/knowledge. 3)Fix something on your car you are better prepared to do. 4) go get valve cover and pay the man $20.00. Been there- should have done that WAY sooner!!:stupid:

Thanks Zedrally.

Yes! Zedrally, WHY?, Lets take the solid WORLD approved wiring you have and lets cut it once/one cut =two connectors=more resistance. Add a relay=two more contacts.Then the high amp connectors out. Each cut/connection point =more resistance. EVERY place the wire is not SOLID is a future problem even for the best wireman. Those that are less than will most likely add more problems than they will ever reduce.

With both wires (minus the unit)together you should get FULL. The sending unit is what varies that reading.Think of it as one wire with the sending unit as the "dimmer"switch.

I'll attempt to answer this with a short version. Amps=copper = money=more space needed for turns and bends =more seperation for gauge connections and larger contacts in those devices. Small amps =small wire=small contacts=less cost =less weight=more compact. Add a computer that loves very small wires and only 5 volts=SMALLER wires etc. Use small cheap/less space/etc wires to trigger relays. Now the amount of expensive/higher amp drawing copper only goes from relay to device(shorter wire, huh?). As for the new last longer? Yeah my old only lasted 30+ years----What else do you have that made that trip??? Guys I'll say it once again--If you think you have out thought Datsun --you better think again. Believe me I'm not againist REAL improvements. Yet I get VERY concerned when someone thinks a single relay is good for headlights or one for high beams and one for low. If there was a new and improved perfect way with drawings and an 800 number some would still get it wrong. Oh well I said short--- BE SAFE!!!

My post was not meant as an "absolute" fix Frank. I'm sorry your's is one that does not apply.