TrojanOreo

On eBay! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7942096080

Hate to bring an old thread up, but I was just about to post this same question. My fuel light has never worked, fuel gauge works fine, and I just put a new light bulb in. Where should I start, this Haynes manual is good for wiping my hands.

Wow. I thought my price was reaching at $7500! That guy has too much octane in his tank!

Only thing I can chip in is the paint code is 510. Call Nissan, and they should be able to give you the correct name.

In that case, I'm selling mine for $7000. No, really.

I can understand the front fender's being replaced, I just swapped mine...they were rusted through. Good luck on the sale!

If that was the case, half the posts on this forum would disappear instantly!!

The classic story of "Too many chiefs, not enough indians..."

DUN DUN DUNNN! Light came off this morning, then as I was driving, the lil' sucker came right back on. Sigh... I'll check the fluid again when I get off work today, I think I may have a faulty driver's side caliper leaking fluid. Edit: I'm just as dumb as a brick. It must be because I've been doing 5 things at once on a constant basis for the past few weeks. I forgot this morning...I was driving it to the paint shop!! Ha ha, I won't see it for at least a week!! Guess I won't be checking it today.

I'm in the "what the heck is goin' on" group.

No, it's the ol' fashioned white cap. But I filled that one up, and checked the light. Light went off. Then I went to top off the brake cylinders. Light still off. Yeah, now that you mention it, that is creepy...

Anyone want the old fenders? I'll trash them if not. I'll donate them to the first person who can pick them up. 78 280Z. DFW Texas. http://www.B17A.net/pics/000_0725.JPG

I'm an arse, I fixed it. It was the clutch cylinder...waaay low. Brake cylinder was 1/2 way so I topped them all off. Problem solved. <hits self in head>

Even after adjustment up and down, my e-brake light stays on all the time. Even after I took out the fuse. Any ideas? I can say after the adjustments, I would hear a click in the back brake area the first time I took the brake off and the light would go off, but everytime after that, it would stay on. NOTE: I did just redo the front brakes a few weeks ago, (new calipers, pads and shims), bled the whole system (just because) and pulled the drums off the ensure that everything was on the up and up back there. The fluid was a bit low this morning it the canister closer to the firewall, but still within the range, so I topped it off.

Here's some more, now that I've gotten started on it.... Pic 1 shows the underneath center piece. Pic 2 is a close up of the cancer. Pic 3 shows the culprits. Pic 1 Pic 2 Pic 3 This stuff is adding up, little by litte. It's not much, just a lot of little here, little there. I just need 1 BIG rust spot, and that's it. Knock it all out in 1 blow!

I believe it's called the floor support. It has the another run running parallel to it on the driver's side. I think I've seen these for sale, but I forget where. I just don't have the resources (or $$) right now to saw it off and weld a new one on. I'm putting what little money I have into the paint and body rust.

All I can say about the following is: "ouch". It's not as bad as it looks. Yes, it is a 2 inch hole, but I'm going to cut that remaining rust out and treat the surrounding area. It hasn't spread beyond that, thank goodness. http://www.B17A.net/pics/000_0699.JPG NOTE: Found a buddy who's gonna patch it up after I cut out the rust. I love friends with more tools than me and a garage. Damn apartments.

I know this is a joke, and someone will get a good laugh, but where can I get a decently priced original dash. Mine Z came with a fresh lookin' cap, but I'm looking for the real thing.

NO. F**KIN. WAY. That is insane, and so's the poor sap who forked over $600+ for those things.

I'll head up to Home Depot and open an account today. I've gotta find a garage I can park my baby in. I'd really like to do all the painting myself. I hate apartments...

I have a project for the weekend!

Fortunately, like I said in the PM, that rust on the fender is just local. (Thank goodness) So, I plan on just unbolting that and replacing it. I have a new seal for the windshield so I hope I can find someone competent to help me get the windshield off. And I may just get a new rear hatch since my defrost isn't working either and the seal, although nice and tight, is cosmetically tacky and seems like it was put in by a amateur mechanic. There's a hatch with the same color up at the graveyard for just $60 (which is almost how much the seal costs alone), but it's off a 2+2. Would that cause a fitment problem or should it fit fine?

If someone knowledgeable could click the link that goes to my website...at the very bottom of it there are a few pics showing some surface rust on the top of the car near both the windshield and rear hatch glass. What would be my best approach of getting that treated. Literally step by step would help as this would be my first at attacking this deadly foe. I figure I should be able to sand that down to the metal (?) but I'm not sure where to go from there, if that's where I even start. Basically, I'm body work deficient, and need help. I feel like such an arse...I can overhaul a transmission, rework fuel systems, and install just about anything mechanical, but I'm stumped by brown spots on my metal. Thanks! website: cardomain.com/id/trojanoreo

I'm gonna cry... Drilled the hole, tapped the hole, inserted the thread. So at this point, I'm ecstatic. Put everything together, fill'er up and....pssss....leaking anti-freeze right by that bolt.... :tapemouth So, I'm giving up. Going to get another thermo housing. But first, I've got to get her home. Soooo, I'm gonna tighten down the working bolt and JB Weld the rest, leave it a day or two, and slow roll it the 10 mile trip home. I'm taking no chances when I get the new thermo housing. (well, not new, but y'know) It's heading to the shop (I can't believe those words just came out my mouth) to get installed so I don't have to deal with any more busted bolts, especially on the head. Such a bummer. :disappoin EDIT: I was browsing the MSA catalog, they have one for $30. Not too bad considering it'll be new. Anyone bought one or anything mechanical from them? I've bought tons of cosmetic stuff from here already with no complaints (except of course, some of the prices) but figuring it'll cost close to that at the junkers, I'm thinking why not. Any input? Thanks for everyone's help through this!

Thanks a million guys!! I'll hunt down that tap wrench and get on it. Hopefully I can wrap this up tomorrow night!