Bambikiller240

Agreed, hard to tell for sure from a picture, but sadly, it sure looks like there is more rot under the paint in this area. POR15 will stop rust, but it DOES NOT neutralize the acid that is there and will continue to cause rust. You have to be able to get all of that acid OUT/NEUTRALIZED before it is worth messing with the POR15.

Hello Christian; Weather is been very nice for the past week. Clear and sunny and in high 60's to low 70's, but rain is coming back in a big way for the next 5 days at least. I understand what you mean about high cost of living in my area. Housing has been expensive for years, and now the gas prices have gone wacked. $2.30 a gallon for regular 87 octane currently. Sorry to hear about your father. Mine passed away 7 years ago, and I still miss him greatly. Best regards, Carl

Sometime in the 1971 model year Datsun changed the Diff mount to move the diff about 35mm (can't remember if it is forward, or rearward) to correct an angularity issue regarding the halfshafts.

I've been meaning to post this question for some time, but for various reasons never got around tuit. Where/How have you guys come up with your screen names? For some of you, it is obvious; i.e. Bonnie75209, 2ManyZs, Ben, Smokey, Mike, etc. But for others, I'm really curious as to the stories, or meanings behind the names. Especially names like: ZmeFly, beandip, Zvoiture, Alfadog, Mr Camouflage, Cardogman1, 1 Bravo 6, santamaus, GunnerRob, and many others that I see periodically on the site. So, if there is a story or meaning behind your screen name how about sharing it with us. Inquiring minds want to know! Thanks, Carl

Keith Thomas (Chet Wittel's ITS Crew Chief) reccomends, "I'd stick to a Dynomax Super Turbo. Much less obnoxious sounding than a Flowmaster. I think the P/N is 17723 for the 2.5 diameter in/out. Only loses 1hp at the wheels over a straight pipe in my tests." I don't know whether they also use a pre-muffler.

From my point of view........You could dump the "Automotive News" area. I tried to use it and found that I had to "register" and provide my email address in order to view any of the articles. I get enough SPAM and can't be bothered with registering to receive more. As mentioned previously, I'd like to see links to the gallery instead of previews. That would free up some space too. I like the rest of the page.

My early 72 240Z with the high compression (early E88) cylinder head will not run properly on regular gasoline. I have to use 89 octane at least and even then it doesn't run well. My original 72 FSM reccomends 92 octane. With the price of gas now days I guess I should be glad that I'm not using Bambikiller as a daily driver. I'm not glad, but I should be! At least I can use regular 87 octane in the 81 Dodge D50 P/U (2.0L). It's gutless, but it saves extra wear on the Z.

Taylor 8mm Spiro Wires are good also

Hi Smokey: If you get the car, have a shop fix that battery rust ASAP. On the 73 that I owned in the early 80's I spent almost two years chasing it at home with naval jelly and acid neutralizing solutions pumped into the seams and holes in the frame rails and never did get it all. The corrosive white powder would always reappear in the seams of the frame rail and in all seams where panels were joined. Finally, I had to take it to a restoration body shop where they opened the seams and actually removed the frame rail, treated the metal properly and reassembled all while the car was on a frame machine so that eveything was correctly assembled to factory measurements. Figure 2 grand to get it right, as estimates somehow always end up on the low side. JMO

dero: Please do not take this as a put down of your desire to fix the problem you are experiencing on your car. With your request for pictures of "what the points are..." One must assume that you are attempting to fix this problem with very limited experience and no shop manual since any manual would have a picture of the points, and most people with basic experience working on cars would know what points look like already. Everyone must start somewhere and it is good that are willing to jump in and give it a try, but you need some basic help. I would strongly encourage you to get a shop manual for your car to aid you in this project and any other that you might desire to tackle on your car. Even the best of mechanics need to refer to shop manuals to successfully work on cars. Without a manual and posessing limited troubleshooting skills, you are really flying blind, and MAY do more harm than good to your car. You owe it to yourself and your car to arm yourself with the necessary tools to do the job. Tool #1 is a Shop Manual. If you cannot find or afford a Nissan Shop manual, get a Haynes, or Chiltons manual for your model of Z. It will be an invaluable resource for every job you do. It will help you to work on your car successfully, and to avoid causing inadvertant damage to the car. A friend with experience diagnosing Ignition systems will also be an invaluable tool for a newcomer to problems such as this, as there can be many different causes to a "no start" problem. Even for people that are experienced it can be difficult to diagnose. Good Luck!

See the diagram provided below. Ignore the "Pertronix Ignitor", (it replaces the points and does not alter the accuracy of the rest of the diagram. Good Luck

HIGHLY RECCOMEMDED!!! Just be careful not to over tighten them. They are made of brass and you can snap them off. You do NOT need to tighten them like a maniac. They make life EZ!!!!!!!!!!!

If the 350Z was styled more like this photo, I'd like it a lot better. (assuming performance to match!)

I meant to say, "I can't think of them at the moment!" Kinda spoils the joke when you leave out words!

Believe me, I'm not the master, just an impartial voice on the outside to try to balance the "Z lust" that can take over in times like this. BTDT!! Having Rock to agree to go over it is a great opportunity. There are worse things than two cats in the house, but I think of them at the moment. (Just kidding, I have 3 cats, including one that is diabetic and needs insulin shots twice a day!)

Sure. Please post the Part Number that you have. I'll check to see if they can be aquired from Nissan in the US. Thanks! Carl

Well, be sure to keep us all appraised of how the dealing goes. Keep your eyes open for anything that, doesn't look right, and don't let your heart get ahead of your mind while examining it. If this is the one you really want you'll know it, but you don't need to tip your hand to the seller. Examine that area of "minor rust" unde the battery tray carefully. If the engine compartment was repainted when the rest of the car was done (a year a go you said?) , signs of rust may indicate that pre-existing rust was not properly addressed before paint. There could be more hiding. If is just recent "minor rust" starting to form, address it yourself immediately (or as quickly as possible) to preserve your investment! Focus Grasshopper! Carl

The add says they are for 1975-76, so they are probably not the "correct" ones for a 70-74 240Z/260Z.

I'm fairly certain that Dave and the guys can modify the E31/E88 to use the larger valves, etc. that the P90 offers.

For 240Z's the armrest was an aftermarket item that was widely available from mail-order parts companies, and some dealers also bought them in bulk and added them to new cars (along with aluminum wheels and stripe kits, A/C, etc to pad the sale price and profit margin). They were never available from Nissan as far as I know.

Smokey: When I sold Bambikiller's older brother ( a 71 that I'd spent 3 years rebuilding from a bare shell) back in 1986, I tried to tell myself that I didn't need a Z anymore. For over a decade I kept trying to tell myself that story. Over, and over, and over. Finally in 1999 I admitted defeat and bought the one that I have now. I've been so much happier with a Z back in my life. For some of use there isn't cure, once you've been bitten by the bug! Carl

:stupid: Are these items NLA? Is there some other reason that they could possibly be worth this kind of money?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33657&item=2405933883

Gosh, they sure do look straight! They also look like significant work has been done. On my car you can see the spot welds and the"step" where the frame rails meet the floorpans. On this car it appears that the "step" has been welded or filled in . I can't see the spot welds at all and the paint is way too shiney for factory. To me, it looks like the car was painted top AND bottom. (maybe on a rotisserie?) I'm not saying any of this is a bad thing at all, just pointing out the observation. It looks like the work was done nicely.

Yeah, I got home in time. It was a good race, huh? Montoya did whine a bit, kinda silly since he basically tossed is chance of winning out the window when he spun by himself. The Safety cars really didn't make much difference. Kimi is the one who really got hosed, with the drive through for "speeding" on pit lane. I wonder how much he was speeding. The kid can't seem to buy a break. It was a bit surprising to see Ferrari miss the podium for the first time since '99. Mark Webber was going great until his suspension fialure. I think he was up to 9th or 10th from his last place starting position (except for the ones who started from pit lane). He may have been on really light tanks, but he was moving through the field. They can't say that there wasn't any passing in this race! Gonna try to stay up and watch the tape again tonight. See ya later! carl

They have changed the designof their website. The previous design had more detail and I'm operating from memory of what I saw there last spring, and from conversations with Dave rebello back in May of 02. They 2.7L uses the Maxima Diesel (stroker) Crankshaft. I don't remember what pistons and rods are used, so I know I'm not much help. The story told was that everything was maximized for efficiency. "It's the details that make the difference between what we do and what others sell". is what Dave stressed to me. For the ITS style cylinder heads, "Match ports, new seats, grind valves, clean & assembled. Using stock cam, springs, with the rocker arm geometry maximized". is what the site describes for the 4 cylinder Nissan heads. Dave told me that they spend over twice the time on an ITS head as is needed for a standard cylinder head rebuild. Too bad they didn't leave all of the information up when they redesigned the website. http://www.rebelloracing.com/ You can send a request for info and pricing on the site. Probably would take a day or so for Dave to get back to you. I had them do my cylinder head, but not an ITS job as I couldn't afford that, but what he delivered to me looks really nice. I haven't installed it yet, It sits in my spare bedroom with the rest of the engine parts that I plan to assemble this spring and summer. Procrastination is a bitch, and so am I !!!!