Bambikiller240

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Here is some photo's to stir the controversy. Photo's courtesy of Eric Neyerlin of www.zparts.com

Now don't take this too seriously, after all it is in the Funnybone Section. If you think you might be offended, don't look, And don't whine to Mikey about it either!

There was NO factory A/C available on 240Z's in the USA. It wasn't available from the factory until 260Z's in 1974.

I believe that it is the controls for a dealer added air-conditioning system. Wasn't available from the factory in 73, so dealers added systems to cars for buyers that wanted A/C. Geez, that interior looks fantastic! Not my favorite color vinyl, but WOW reaaly excellent condition!

Laschlan: That crap is coming from your gas tank. You are going to need to have the tank removed and boiled out and then repaired. Probably will require sandbalsting the rusted areas and then applying a sealer to the inside of the tank. If the rust is allowed to continue, it will eat holes in your gas tank, and then you'll really be in a difficult situation. The tanks are not available from Nissan and (at least in the US ) are very difficult to find in reasonable condition in salvage yards. I'm sure that you didn't want to hear this, but that amount of rust in your fuel lines is a sign of significant damage to the inside of your tank and you will be $$$ a head to get it addressed sooner, rather than later. Sorry to be the bearer of negative news.

I'd call Motorsport Auto in LA, or a Nissan dealer. May be able to find them from a used Z parts seller also. Danny's Datsuns in Oregon or Eric Neyerlin in Richmond, CA

I doubt it. I could not use a 72-73 turn-signal switch on the 1971 240Z that I used to own. The wiring harnesses were different. Pigtail to the switch was different length, and the color code was different.

If that didn't cause your problem, it should have.

Better than "bush" (pu**y)? Damn, your wife must make great soup!

Most stores that would sell the fans would also stock the controls, or at least be able to order the kit from the same manufacturer. Kragen should be able to do this, but who knows. They are not my favortie source for anything other than oil that is on sale. I routinely got lousy service from them so I spend very little money in any Kragen store.

You sould be able to buy everything needed to install the fan at the store that sells it to you. Usually the fan comes with all that is needed to install, or a "install kit" is sold separately. You may want to get a "Thermostatic control kit" to control the operation of the fan, unless you want to switch it on and off manually.

Wow, a 240Z Pimp-Mobile!

Now this is where it seems GOOFY to me. The GIF image on that page shows measuring the "backspace from the "outer edge" of the inner side of the wheel to the mounting surface. The measurement from there INCLUDES the (one) "lip" of the wheel. I always thought the Width of the wheel was measured from outer edge to the other outer edge? It seems to me that he measurement from the mounting pad to the "other" outer lip should be equal, or the offset is NOT zero. WTF??

A Brass Drift is a round piece of brass about 8 inches long, approximately 1/2" to 5/8" diameter. Usually had a knurled area for your grip at one end. It is used to drive the steel races out of and into your brake hubs. The idea is that you place the drift against the race and wack the drift with your hammer. The brass, being softer than the steel of the hammer or the race, will deform and not damage the race if you hit the race off center, or if the drift slips and contacts the bearing surface. If you were to use a piece of steel for this job, you'd likely damage the race.

The way I read that web page seems to confirm my previous statements. With ZERO offset, back-space should be 1/2 of rim width. YES / No?

Ya won't find Duct Tape in my tool box! Of course I don't do body work, but IMO Duct Tape is for Half-arse Repairs and I won't have any of that going on with my Z! I *think* I have a small roll somewhere in the house, but I can't remember the last time I used it, nor where I put it.

I never carved mine up to check the interior of the material. The surface was black (inside the ashtray as well as outside) and that was all I ever saw. My car earliest Z was a early 71.

So you are getting two cars? What is the story on the "other" one. You mentioned "donor", What is it donating? Conversion to Manual transmission parts? Are you driving the one pictured to Penn from CA? Any concerns about that?

ZmeFly: Since yur an alignment tech I'm hoping that you can 'splain this to me so I understand it. I thought that if the "offset" was zero, then the back-spacing would be exactly 1/2 of the wheel width. In other words: 5" wide wheel = 2.5" back space 5.5" wide wheel = 2.75" back space 6" wide wheel = 3.0" back space 7" wide wheel = 3.5" back space 8" wide wheel = 4.0" back space Reason I ask is I've seen people post wheel size info that doesn't follow this assumption. Can you clear this up for me? I'd appreciate it. Thanks.

Besides the standard tool kit of: full set of metric 3/8" and 1/2" drive 12 point sockets full set of Metric Combo Wrenchs Small set of Standard & Phillips Screwdrivers Regular Pliers Channel-Lock Pliers 1/2" drive 10-150 ft/lb Torque wrench Big & Small Hammers I frequently use the following: 10 mm Flare nut wrench (or Aldenwrenches - www.aldenwrench.net ) for brake line fittings Small Needle-Nosed Vice-Grips for help with screws with stripped heads, and brake line fittings that are already dammaged. Ohm-Meter for Electrical troubleshooting Brass Drift for replacing Wheel Bearings Pickle Fork or Pittman Arm Separator for Tie-Rod Ends and Ball Joints. Spring Compresser Set for Suspension work

ZwolleY: Just thought I'd mention, that (if you want to) you can replace your alternator with one for a late 280Z or 280ZX which has an internal voltage regulator. There is a write up on how to do this in our Technical atricles section. There isn't much to it, and you gain amperage capacity as well as the internal voltage regulation. Carl PS Sending you a Private message shortly, please read.