Bambikiller240

I connect that way also, but I usually use a ratchet and socket on the crank pulley bolt, as I always have problems with the engine spinning past where I want the camshaft lobe(s) for a particular valve(s) to be located.

Also, I have to wonder why someone would install "New Dash, New Rear Deck Emblems, New wiper blade assemblies, New rear hatch support strut,....." and not bother to fix the freakin headlights before offering it up for sale

There is more to life that "Top Speed" like: How long it took the car to acheive said Top Speed Drivability under ALL conditions the car is driven in Fuel Mileage Only you can decide how much you are willing to pay for any level of performance. You can get Round Top SU's much cheaper than $700 and rebuild them yourself. There are still a fair amount of Z's out there with "boat anchor" carbs in them, and they are (or can be) driven every day, but there are performance gains to be had from Round Top SU's that IMHO are not available with "boat anchors".

Hi Stephen: :tapemouth Err, now that you mention it, I believe that you are correct. Since I am "electrically challenged" I have a "Y" splitter between the fusible link and the spade, and the other correct terminal (that should be the POS) marked so that it is "idiot" (that would be me) proof. Thanks for the correction, I hope that Ian240 hasn't done his valves yet!.

Yes you did. I was watching those insulators also and when the price past the price charged by normal retail Z car parts sellers I logged off. Some folks will pay any amount for anything :stupid: :stupid:

Hi: 100% original, purchased from original owner, with all systems intact. Nissan stopped using the console with the ashtray at the very front (over the fusebox) in early 1971, that is why they sell for over $100 consistantly on eBay. Realtively few cars (in relation to total 240Z production) came with them AND they were made of some plastic-type material and did not survive very well.

One wire goes to the male SPADE connector on the solenoid (where the fusible link connects) and the other connects to where the NEG batt cable connects EDIT: THAT SHOULD BE THE POS BATTERY TERMINAL

I have a 1972 titled 240Z, mfg 11/71 and it came with the pictured Fese box cover panel. There is nothing connected to the seatbelt warning indicator on my panel, but the lense is there.

Will zinc conduct electricity? If it will, you will need to be sure that no circuits are bridged by the spray application. I would consider using a brush on type of application to ensure there are no bridges. Spray into a cup , then brush it on from the cup. But of course, I'm anal about stuff like that.

That is what I was thinking, too.

That is INCREDIBLE! I cannot imagine the dedication and effort it took to accomplish this project. It even SOUNDS like a real Ferrari Flat 12. "Awe"some! Thanks for the link!

Dave; Did you delete the Thread about the 500 Megs of Z car stuff? We are getting inquiries from several people who wanted to read the thread as it was recently brought to the top of the list. At this time it seems to be gone from the Tech Articles forum. Regards, Carl (Bambikiller240) Tech Articles Moderator ClassicZcars.com

Why couldn't regular Di electric Grease (probably spelled wrong) work for this? AFAIK, nothing is going to protect the plastic from deterioration (it's not really corrosion as stated previously) caused by heat.

They show up on eBay occasionally, but I don't know where you can get them in NEW condition. You might check with Motorsport Auto in LA, CA www.zcarparts.com as I think they sometimes have used ones for sale. Another place to check is to email Andy Russell z@datsundude.com I think he can get them too. Good Luck!

On the back of the wheel cylinders and calipers. Congrats on getting your Z! Next step is to purchase Repair Manuals. If you have the money a Factory Service Manual is the best one to get, tho it is not cheap (approx $75). IMHO the Haynes (brand) manual is the next best and can be had very cheaply (under $15). These manual will answer so many of the questions you will have before you even need to ask, and will guide you in repairing and improving the car for many years. Worth the're weight in gold! (well, almost anyway)

WE will be the judge of THAT! :devious: IF we're ever given the opportunity. Does anyone live near the Pup? Maybe someone who can snap a candid picture in a compromising situation?

Mine wasn't meant to be good or bad. Simply meant to show a total lack of interest.

I saw that story today also; and it did indicate 5 dogs per month. Yes we are culturally different. I saw a documentary about 6 months ago showing the capture of an approx 30 ft. Python and it was all that 3 experienced snake handlers could handle. I would not want to get this fellow pissed off.

That's a Mr. Miserable Failure President bio. Actually he ISN'T a Miserable Failure, but I think they were aiming for a Family Audience and couldn't use the correct term for GWB

Chloe....................????????

No

Hmm, I don't know what could be wrong. It is s simple system and a simple (2 wire) install, as you can see from the instructions with the Ignitor and the diagrams provided by Pertronix and on the site here. I would think that it has to be something simple that is being overlooked, or something in the OEM wiring on your car not being the same as mine. It would be really unusual for a person to get two Ignitor units that were bad from the factory, so at this point I'm at a loss to explain why you are having theses problems. Do you have a digicam to take and post pictures of the install?

It is amazing how far things have come I would have preferred that also, but I *think* that the octane rating of our gas was dropping at the same time and MAY not have supported that move They must have figured that the Americans always felt "bigger is better". I guess.

Good deal, that's what you needed to do to know how they fixed it.

Playing devils advocate, I'll ask if they pounded it out (mostly) or filled it to the brim with bondo.