Bambikiller240

Not without a picture of it. Could be one of several possibilities.

From Nr. K's Autobiography

From my Sun Visors

Now you're talking TACKY! (liable to get snot on your hand when shifting!)

That would be as tacky as the golden bobblehead tiger, or Taco Bell bobblehead dog.

Mr. K's signature!

asbestos? Probably.

Have you priced having a local radiator shop do a re-core on your current radiator? They can put in a 3 or 4 row (as you desire), and may be cheaper than buying new. That is what I had done. I liked the idea of a local warranty on the work and was very satisfied with the quality of workmanship that I received at my local shop.

Craig could alway let her go Braless at the show (that always draws attention!) and have her wear it only on the road trip.

I previously owned a 71 (HLS30-23313) and it had the breather buttons in the seat covers. The cushion on the console could be one of the "Factory Authorized" dealer add-on accessories. Regarding the driver side (actually both sides) of the dash and possible overspray..... I think it may reflection as a few other pictures show that area and it appears quite black. It's only the closest view that show that effect Also looks like they painted the V. Reg cover and the Carb Linkage. :stupid: How can anyone call a car with a Dash Cap (especially a HALF CAP!) "Restored". Other than the things mentioned (by all of us), it does look like a pretty nice car. Now, let's see where the Reserve Price drops off.

There was not any consensus on the validity of the perceived problem, at least on the 240Z.org list discussion. John Coffey, who raced a Z car for quite a long time said that he had never seen, heard, nor experienced any problems in the Compression rods with PU bushings. I can't find my copy of the 240Z.org discussiion, but I do have a copy of the initial Hybrid Z discussion on this subject that I saved in a WORD document, which I cannot attach here. If anyone wants a copy of that initial Hybrid Z discussion, PM me with your email address and I can forward it to you later today/tonight.

Well, do you trust the previous owner, do you know anything about the services that have been done to the car before you bought it? How many miles are on the engine? If it hasn't been done (ever or recently) when the head is removed, it's a good idea to have the head reconditioned. This can involve regrinding the existing valves, or replacing them. Valve guides should be checked for wear and replaced if necessary. It is also a good time to have the timing chain, gears, tensioner replaced if they have not been replaced recently. Of course, all of this costs money, but when done all at once, it can really save money in the long run. If you don't service these areas now, and you end up with valve or timing issues a little later down the road, the head will have to come off again and your paying for the same labor a second time at that point. Just a few things to think about. Let us know what you do, and how it comes out.

Ben: NGK Wires are great wires. Oh, sure you could get better wires, but you'd pay an arm and a leg for them. Next time you're looking for wires though, check around on eBay, there was a guy selling sets of NGK wires for Z cars at approx $20 a set plus $6 shipping, a few months ago. Extrreme deal, I thought. I have thought of Dando's for checking out my carbs, but I have a big difficulty trusting any shops, after having been burned so many times over the years. Let me know a bit before you plan to do your gas tank work. You'd be wise to replace vent lines at the same time if they are in bad shape. We can check'em out, so you can order whatever you need. PS: Are those fuel rail heat wraps original, or did you replace them? If replaced, where did you get them?

Are you doning the work, or is your mechanic doing it? If you are doing it: how skilled are you in engine repairs? Are you familiar with Overhead Camshaft Engines? Do you have a Haynes, or Chiltons, or Factory service Manual?

Cha-Ching, Cha-Ching (sound of a cash register recording a sale)??? Just Guessing.

Ben: What brand of ignition wires did they put on the car? what's written on the wires? Size,Brand, etc Was the price that they charged you out of line for the work that they did? FWIW, I have heard mixed reviews of the work and practices at Dando's. I met a guy from our Mail list that lives in Fremont quite near you and he, without being prodded, piped up with a firm reccomendation to avoid them based on his experiences.

How about "quiet" aneurysms? I CAN spell, sometines!

See attachment. #1 Cylinder is the one closest to the radiator, #6 is the one closest to the battery.

There is no fuel pressure unless the engine is running. Just replace the filter, and tighten the hose clamps. Where the filter is located, the pump will "suck" fuel when the engine is running.

Beautiful!!! (except for the wheels!)

no mention of removing the oil pan plug?

Frank13: If you're going to MSA; have another member take a pic. They can email to you to post, or they could post it for you. Just a thought.

I agree. Nuff said

Clarification I know that. Neither did your statement include the word "some" in it. That is "all" my post was trying to point out. Even without the word "all", it appeared as a blanket statement Your statement was, "And, the guys that respect the car have driven it." That doesn't leave much room for anyone who has driven it to not respect it, does it? IMO, 350Z ( I have test driven one, last year) is not an Edsel, it's an OK modern car. But, it isn't much different from several others out there on the market. It does not standout from the pack, it is not the revolution that the 240Z was. (Retired from the Thread)