justaZcarguy

Howdy... Earlier today I was running the '74, I had an intake rocker arm come off under acceleration. All seems fine now, got 'er back on and adjusted it up, nice and quiet again and hitting on all six. What would cause this? It wasn't over revved, and hasn't seemed noisy. Motor seems fine, although tomorrow I think that I will adjust all the valves just to play it safe.... And yes I adjusted them hot.... Thanks! ~Brian

I know that this is off the subject and I apologize in advance, but SMG, what are you running to supply the triples fuel wise? I have the triple mikuni set up on my '74 up and running and I need a fuel pump that will run it. Currently, I am using the stock electric pump from my parts stash and amazingly enough it seems fine, even at the higher revs... And holy cow that car is FAAAAAAAST. Thanks sir!

I bought the SM needles and nozzels for my '73 and it made a WORLD of difference. I picked up my stuff thru ZTherapy. There is some great info at their website: www.ZTherapy.com Check it out! Brian

The red hot on the rear three is that carb running lean... Be careful, this can be BAD if done for long periods of time. Two and a half turns is the place to start, make sure that your chokes are not sticky on the bottom of the carb, it can be a common problem. The supply hoses need to be plyable to allow free movement of the carb. I just picked some up at ZTherapy, they were worth the money... Keep us posted, Good Luck!!

Let me know how the valve cover comes out...:classic:

Hey Nustad... I would call Steve or Bruce over at Z-Therapy. They have always been very helpful to me. Let us know what you find out.... Brian

I eat rice for breakfast...

Yep it was a cruded fuse connection... I actually found the problem by using a test light and found the bad connection, replaced the fuse and holy cow a bright light... why this does not affect both lights is beyond me. It's fixed now so I'm not gonna push my luck!! Which by the way, taking the top of the mikunis off and cleaning the passageways and tightening the jets made a WORLD of difference... Holy shi*, the car freakin flys now... ~Brian

Anyon ever had one dim headlight? My passenger side one is about 25% of what it should be...Bright and regular.... Suggestions? Thanks!:classic:

I really need some information on the web regarding Mikuni tuning and maintence, assembly bla, bla, bla... Any suggestions? Every search that I do I come up with plenty of cycle stuff but very little triple info.... Thanks and have a great weekend!!!

Thanks sir, I'll give it a shot!! ~Brian

Well I've owned several Z's and have never seen this. It's not just shifting to the right or left upon power demand, but flickering most of the time. About a quarter inch total. In my '74 it's as solid as a rock and it has the alternator from the '73. The new alternator in the '73 didn't change a thing. Thanks for all help... ~B

Hey (again), Onto the '74. Those of you that are running triple carbs or have this knowledge I need some help... The triple mikunis are currently being run from the stock electric fuel pump. Is this enough? I would venture to say no and I need to look into another if necessary... I have been advised on the carter inline pump for around $60. Ideas? thanks!!!!!

Hello All.... On my '73 the amp gauge has always jad a slight flicker to it. It has been there ever since I have owned this Z which is about a year now. The car wasn't driven for about three months but now that I'm have been on the job search I drive it a bunch. It kinda comes and goes...not talking about days here, it will stop for a few minutes at most then return. Has anyone ever tackled this problem? I just put a new alternator in it, the '74 needed one and I put the new one in the '73 and the operational one in the '74. Which by the way is a whole new post that will follow this one... Anyway, I need advice on this bouncy amp needle... Thanks! ~Brian

Ok, two questions, finally I put a center force clutch in the '74 and now that I can actually drive the damn thing I have a question regarding the triple Mikuni set up that I have.... And curse the 500 mile break in on the clutch, that is gonna take forever...:tapemouth Anyway, I need to know how to tell the mm size on the carbs and what I need to do regarding a fuel pump to supply the beasts... Currently I have put in a stock 240 electric fuel pump I had laying around, but I don't think that's gonna do it... Any advice? Thanks! ~Brian

I figure that this was fitting to the post and would crack you up as much as it did me. **Warning** May scare young childern... ~Brian

Morning! Enrique, I was referring to a post you did back in Jan where you said not to ask about the garage carpet smelling like gas... Which by the way. I now have the same problem. I discovered that it was not the pebble after all, but a hose at the top of the tank, figures, the way it pooled around the strap was a bit misleading... Thanks for the advice all, it was all great and I will use it! By the way Enrique, howz the roadster?????? Have a great Tuesday... ~Brian

Hello All, FIRST let me say this is a temporary fix until I can hibernate the Z in the garage to pull the tank and fix it right and do the return hoses as well, presently they are not leaking, but we all know it's a matter o' time. That being said, who has had luck with patching a tank with something like JB Weld? It appears that a small pebble has gotten between the strap and tank (I can't figure out how either) and yesterday when I filled it, I think the extra weight worked a small hole into the tank. I plan on removing the strap, and yes, with the tank supported as Kmack and EScanlon already know about... (Sorry guys...) Once while out on a hill climb in a '72 4X4 Blazer I poked a small hole in the tank during a climb and I used JB Kwik and it still is working today and that was three years ago... I was wondering if there is something someone else has used and had luck with... Keep in mind this is a small pinhole and not leaking too badly, but I bet that will change once I remove the small intruder. Thanks fellow Zpeople, have a great day!! ~Brian

Upon further inspection, the auto parts guy sold me a 195 degree thermostat. WAAAAAAAAYYY too hot, now there is a 180 degree in there and things are much better in Zville. The noise ended up being the control valve closed just a bit, way it did not make noise before is beyond me... Thanks for the info!

What did you have to modify to get them to fit? ~Brian

Anybody out there running a 190 degree thermostat? And if so, where does the needle sit (on a stock '72) gauge? I noticed a while back that I had no thermostat in the system, so when I changed my water pump I also put in a new thermostat. I let it run after installation for a good twenty minutes and no over heat and good heat out of the defrost. Ran down to get a bushel of blonde lager and the damn thing overheated, not quite in the red, but definitly hot. When I finally did get the cap off, the coolant level was right where it should be. ?????????? Also, now that I have made these changes, upon a fairly modreate rpm, I hear a new noise in the heater core / valve that sounds like the "woosh" of water that was never there before this surgery.... Any advice on the two questions? Thanks all... Brian

"I get 14mpg at best." SMG, could it be the TRIPLE carbs? hmmmmmmm... Brian

Hello All, Yesterday I drove to Salem (Oregon) and visited the guys at ZTherapy and it was an awesome experience! Steve was very helpful, when he found something wrong with the carbs, he explained what the problem was and how it was affecting the operation of the engine. The SM needles and new jets made a HUGE difference in the runnability and performance of the engine! I learned a ton of stuff, I can't say enough good things about Steve and Bruce and their knowledge of these carbs. I would suggest that you visit the web site at ZTherapy.com and call them with questions / orders, the money I spent there was worth the knowledge alone, it will also improve my gas mileage! They have a top notch operation...Check 'em out!! Brian

Yes, I've checked the choke and the float level. Out of curiousity, what else could attribute to this? Brian

Hello all, Here's the scenario.... Switched carbs from the flat-tops to 3 screw rounds, the front in running rich no matter what adjustment is made. Here's the question: Is it fair to say that I could take another 3 screw, adjust it the same exactly idle/mixture wise, use the same needle, and switch 'em? (just the front one) In my head, which is dangerous, the car should just start up and run as if the other carb was still there. And hopefully eliminate the rich mixture from the front problem? I have adjusted everything on the darn thing and when I lift up on the front piston, the smoke clears. Ideas / advice? Thanks, have a great day! Brian