justaZcarguy

I agree, I was wondering if anyone else had interest, I guess I'll pass up the car, it has a blown head gasket and who knows what else... Thanks all, Bri

Will the wheels from the '84 300 fit onto a '73 / '74 Z? I am concerned about the offset? Also, while I'm in the subject what else is useful off of that car? Thanks, Bri

Another thing that I did was put an in-line fuel filter that was glass so I could see the fuel supply going to the motor. That way when it dies next time you have a quick reference as to what the fuel is doing... ~Brian

check your fuel filters, and remember, there could be a hidden one along the frame rail... Let us know... ~Brian

When you say "third gear", is it because there is a load on the motor? Do us a favor, shift early, put a load on the motor, and tell us if you experience the same thing... Thanks, ~Bri

Hello Lady Z, i just went thru this, with the voltage regulator quest that I was on. Everything that you listed points to the fact that your alternator is not charging the system. With my problem, the voltage regulator was out and not telling the alternator to come alive and charge the system. The charging amount should be around 14.7 volts at the posts. In the event that your alternator is not charging the system has to rely on what is left in the battery. Simple test time. Start the Z, pull off the positive cable on the battery with the engine running. If the engine dies the alternator is NOT charging the system. Voltage regulator tells the alternator when to charge. I have a way for you to "field test " the alternator while the engine is running but you will need to contact me to go thru this, I do not have the skematic in front of me, and the Z is in the garage, I have not found a way to get it into the living room... But I'm trying. I can guide you or the boyfriend thru it, it's not hard, you will need a voltage meter tho... Feel free to contact me at 503.357.9776. This is a good test, I have put alternators out of the box on the car that were no good. Your symptoms represent a no charge on the system tho.... Good luck, ~Brian

Yes sir I did, i am questioning the make of the valves, I want to match the stock part otherwise I am asking for premature wear.... Thanks for the info, they are the cheapest I have found so far, that's what worries me... Also, I need to make sure that the valves are gonna match up. B

Thanks Phred for the correction, I think that is what I meant,,:tapemouth ... I plan on using the existing head (N42), the car ran REALLY good with the existing setup so I do not want to change anything. The question is what valves I have in the N42. Thanks 2Many, I appreciate the information..... Brian

Well here we are.... Tore the head down today with Phred, by the way thanks Mr. Phred, I learned a bunch today, I wish I had 10% of your knowledge. So the plot thickens. Bent 4 exhausts and 1 intake. Ouch, but could have been MUCH worse, so if it had to happen, I'm thankful that it was minimal in comparison. The N42 had the bronze giudes replaced with steel, so that's good. But this makes me wonder if the valves are different from stock. They would most likely be different from the stock due to the guide upgrade?? (material wise...??) The dimensions are 1.385 on the exhaust head and 4.620 in lentgh, 1.740 on the intake valve head and 4.580 in length. Now, the N47 was a steel guide head, does anyone know the dimensions of the valves in the N47? I would be surprised if the valves were as big but I also don't know if they aren't. The reason is for this question, I have access to a N47 head from a 810 (around '80). I'm pulling the motor tomorow, but thought I'd run the question by the professionals...:classic: And, where can I get Nissan quality replacement valves to replace the ones that I bent? (Besides Nissan...) Thanks guys, have a great night!!!! ~Brian

Have you tried heater hose Zed? I cram a hard screw driver handle inbetween the chains and hope for the best, and the last time I did it, I was late on the push with the screw driver and have yet to figure out weather the spring is out or not. That's the current problem with the '74 and you have read the post on the charging problem with the '73.(if not save yourself, run!) Whoa is me, it's been a bad week for JustaZcarguy. But 'nuff 'bout me. Zedrally is right about making sure the tensioner does not slip or you will end up pulling of the front of the motor. (like I most likely will....) Good luck, at least better luck than I have had... Let us know sir.... Brian

I've tested the continunity and it checks out, it's not overcharging at this point, it's acting as if the alternator is not being activated at all... I'll double check the white but I'm sure that it's good....

Hey Livenbad.... Was it hard to install the other regulator? Wiring wise?? B

I have checked continuity with a tester, both inside the engine bay and the cabin (for lack of a better word...) This required acts of contorsionism that NO human should try, espically one with busted ribs.... When I disconnect the plug-in (yellow & white) from the back of the alternator and jump the f terminal to the A and start the engine, I am getting 14+ volts. Pull the negative side of the battery and the voltage jumps to 16+. Ouch, don't do that for long... This tells me that during that test I am eliminating the Voltage regulator. AND that the alternator is in operational order. ALSO the AMP gauge is reading high during this time. Makes sense, the voltage regulator is eliminated for now. Plug in the wires to the back of the alternator (yellow and white) and no charge. Wires between the regulator and the alternator are good by the way. What do you think? Try ANOTHER regulator?? I think I'm certifiable. B

Makes sense, when I test the alternator, on the car runing, I shows a charge of 14 volts plus. I guess I'll switch out the regulator (again). Daniel, did yousay that you went thru this with the regulator? was the replacement shorter than stock? And if so did you replace it with the taller adjustable one? Thanks - Bri

Well the car is ofically a mess, wires and brain matter from me is all over the place...:sick: I am starting to lean to the voltage regulator, i have found no hidden fuses, no bad wires. I'm testing the alternator today again to see if it's bad, I hope not this will be the third one in it. I wonder, if the regulator is bad will it take out the alternator? Thanks for the info, Brian

had you put in a new non-adjustable before you put in the adjustable? the only one that I have found has been the smaller "updated" version and I have always had a bad feeling about it. Thanks, Bri

I am ready to beat my head against the wall. Can someone give me some advice on the wiring problem that I may have.... Voltage regulator has always been questionable, the needle has been bouncy from day one. Was always going to replace the regulator and never did... Funny thing is, the tach has allways read high also. Driving along last week I noticed that the amp guage was acting weird and suddenly the gauge dropped to the middle and lights dimmed slightly, no increase when revved. AND the tach read normal. NOW we can get no charging out of the system. Have replaced the alternator and the voltage regulator and still no charge. It's acting as if a relay is not activating the alternator. I've traced wires and nothing seems out of wack. Am I missing something??????? '73 is the year here. Also, have checked all the fuses. I swear there is one hiding somewhere. Please help, I am ready to go to the padded room over this. Thanks, Brian

These are the numbers on the top of the piston, P86 50. Anyone recognize this? I have nit measured the bore yet, the pistons have a silver dollar sized raised portion on the passenger side of the piston as well... Ideas? I was told they were some sort of european racing piston made by nissan... Thanks for any info..... Bri

You know how a sponge feels, right? Actually, the last few days have been cloud free and it's gonna last thru Sunday!! Woooohooooo!!!:classic: Too bad the fast one is not driveable..... I wonder if I know the friend that moved here.... Bri

Mine stayed where it was, did you replace the pin? I'm thinking that would be a smart move. B

Hey Zed, My cam just moved on the pin a few days ago, took out some valves... Don't feel alone. I posted the experience under "well here's the damage" So, Clutchdust, hang in there, I just took the head off, if you need any advice, feel free to call me at 503.357.9776. Have a good day, and look at it this way, it's repairable and at least you'll know what the inside looks like... Brian

If your voltage regualtor goes out, will the alternator read as if it is not charging? I think that my voltage reg went out, it has been showing signs for a while now. The alternator is new and suddenly it shows no activity... Thanks! Brian

Yea, I like the scotch pads also, the pitting does not surprise me much, this car sat for almost two years before I had it... I need to find a source for the valves, I was told that NAPA is repackaging the stockers....funny, the emblem on the stock valves looks like a chevy bowtie.... Bri

That's the thing, I didn't see ANY locktite on the blasted thing, and that suprises me because the rest of the job seems really professional... But thanks sir, any advice on head gaskets? RIP Bambi, Brian.

Below you will see the results of the cam gear bolt backing itself off. I've been told that this is not such an uncommon problem, espically in a motor that has been put together recently. This is a strange sich because this engine has about 20k since being built. So do yourself a favor and check that bolt!!! Anyway, lucky that I was only doing around 40 and not running 'er hard, the end result as you will see is a bit of contact between the valves and the pistons. The pistons came through ok, they are forged. It has actually been an ok experience tearing this motor down, I really wanted to know what was inside. Turns out the cam is a Schneider Racing cam, which I never have heard of... Now it's time to take out the bent valves and look over the head.... Everything so far looks ok wear wise, cam looks good and the cylinders look great... Anyone have any suggestions at this point? The head is allready polished and ported. I also need pointers on head gasket purchase, I have heard that Felpro has dropped in quality.... I hope this experience saves someone else the heartache, check that bolt!!! Have a great day! Brian