webdawg1

You might want to check with one of the following places that does that sort of thing: url: www.gas-tank.com (Moyer fuel tank renu) url: www.gastankrenu.com (Various locations within U.S.A) I'm checking into having one done here shortly myself. From what I've found on their websites you can pretty much expect somewhere in the range of approx. $150-$300 depending on the overall condition of the tank to "recondition/repair/renu" it. You should be able to pull and install the tank yourself and save yourself some money, other wise you're probably looking at another $100-200 to do that. Hope this helps..... webdawg1

This might help you out some.... Pretty good "How-To" when replacing the "Moustache Bar Bushings". Found it on the following website: www.atlanticz.ca They also have various other "How-To's". Hope it helps... webdawg1

They call it "Deep Creep". It's basically a spraycan version of their "Seafoam" product. Has pretty good instructions as to how you go about doing it also. Other methods can also be used I sure...Clean oil (About a teaspoon full in each sparkplug hole) in the sparkplug holes, Pour oil over the cam, turn engine over by hand, Bag it and tag it. Turn engine over (by hand) about once a month or every couple of weeks if you're the really paranoid type. I've seen various posts where folks have had engines in storage 2-3 years... webdawg1

You might try a product called "seafoam". They have a version of "seafoam" that's made for just that purpose. (Long term storage) If you want to check out their website it's at the following url: www.seafoamsales.com webdawg1

Sounds about right. It would still be considered a "1975" tho. Production date 12/74-7/75 would be for chassis numbers 200001-270000, so that would fit in toward the front end on that run. Hope this helps... webdawg1

So what's the VIN # you have?? Should start out something like HLS30-xxxxxx. Depending on what the "Chassis" number is will tell you approx. date it was made. The VB LTD. catalog has a pretty good listing in the front that helps decode chassis numbers... webdawg1

The picture posted on "Fastfrog" appears to be almost exactly what I'm looking at in my FSM for a 75Z. (As far as the magnet valves, vacumn lines...etc...etc are concerned) According to the terminology in the FSM it's called a "Fast Idle Actuator". Only time it should be "On" or "Active" is if you have the A/C turned on. If you pull the wrapping tape off of all the vacumn lines and trace the whole bundle of vacumn lines across to the "Fast Idle Actuator" it should be the "D" connection (Rear solenoid and port facing the passenger side inner fender) on the "Solenoid" (Bracket has it stamped on the bracket as well as to which which port it is) On the "Fast Idle Actuator" side it should be labeled "F". Should be one piece of vacumn line approx. 4-5 feet long +/- a few inches. webdawg1

Using the blue connector on the back part of the intake manifold as a reference point. Are you talking about the item at the 9:00 o'clock position that's attached to the manifold with the flat bracket and (3) screws and (3) bolts?? webdawg1

You might want to check out the Campbell Hausfeld line of compressors at the following url: www.chpower.com If you have a "Lowes" near you, they usually have a full line of compressors in stock most of the time as well as compressor oil, tools, misc connectors to connect everything...etc...etc. The old adage about "Bigger is Better" holds true in this case. You did say you intend to do some media blasting down the road (Blast cabinet) and the extra air sure comes in handy when you're working on a large part. You'll understand what I'm talking about when you're just blasting away like a mad man and not waiting for the compressor to catch up to you. A smaller compressor will be trying to catch up all the time... webdawg1

Yeah....just the regular pressed steel OEM rims. (Not chrome plated) I was thinking they would hold you over (as you were looking for a cheap short-term solution) until you got the panasports... webdawg1

Have any interest in a set of (4) OEM steel rims from a 75Z? (standard 4 bolt pattern of course) Would need to be blasted and painted, but would hold you over until you get the Panasports. Make me an offer I can't refuse!! That's what I want to get (Panasports) when I get to that stage of the rebuild/restoration... webdawg1

I was on eBay looking around today and ran across someone who has several FSM's up for auction. I thought this might be of some interest to you guys/gals looking for FSM's for your model year. They currently have the following model years listed. (1974, 1976, 1978) They also mentioned that they have various other model years in stock also. Ebay handle is listed as: seemcgee Let the bidding begin..... webdawg1

I'm showing the same thing as ChrisA. I'm looking in the 75 FSM on page EM-32. Ring Gap...........Top.........0.23 to 0.38 mm (0.0091 to 0.0150 in) Second....0.15 to 0.30 mm (0.0059 to 0.0118 in) Oil...........0.15 to 0.30 mm (0.0059 to 0.0118 in) webdawg1

You might want to download and print out the "EFI Bible" for starters at the following link. http://www.72hours.net/~zcar/ Also get a FSM (Factory Service Manual) for your model year (1977) as the "EFI Bible" makes reference to various pages and troubleshooting steps in the FSM. You can find them on eBay pretty much all the time. I can also send you a wiring diagram (PDF format) for your model year (1977) if you will PM me with your email address. webdawg1

Anyone out there in "Z" land used this product before? Was thinking about getting some and trying it out. (In comparison to POR-15) Have enclosed a comparison chart showing top three corrosion control products used in the product comparison. In case anyone wants to check out the website info and related stuff here's the url: www.rustbullet.com webdawg1 Rust Bullet Comparison.doc

You might also try the following url: www.nissanparts.cc P/N: J6850-E4100 (NOS) $41.68 (not sure if this per set or a single strap) ships 4-10 business days webdawg1

I saw a set on ebay also. (Brand New) Auction #7934913198 **Auction is over on the 21st**. I think they were for either a 71 or 72. Picture from auction is attached in case you want to compare with what you have now. webdawg1 240 Air Cleaner Bolts and Nuts.bmp

First of all if I was you. I think I'd see about getting a FSM (Factory Service Manual) for your model year. I'd also maybe see about getting the 280Z EFI Theory/Troubleshooting manual. (PDF Format so it's free) Send me your email address via PM and I'll send it to you so you can try to figure out why in the world the PO (Previous Owner) hooked it up that way??? Sounds like your idle speed is set a little low also. webdawg1

Found some info on the web regarding fusible links that might be of some help to everyone as far a converting from AWG to mm². Or if you know what mm² size you require/need, you can convert that back over to AWG (Fusible link wire size in AWG). Should be able to find correct fusible link wire at any local parts store, NAPA, MSA, Victoria British LTD, or other some other parts source that you might know about. Sure helps out if you have the FSM for your model year, as it usually tells you what size "fusible links" you need, and how many of each you need. webdawg1 Fusible Link Conversion Reference.doc Fusible Link Info.doc

Actually I believe they called it "L-Jetronic" which was developed by Bosch in Germany. According to the EFI theory/troubleshooting manual (PDF format) that I downloaded, 1975 was the first year that the "L-Jetronic" was imported into the USA. I was just kind of surprised that the "ThermoTime Switch" actually said "Made in Germany" on it...Things that make you say things like "Say What".... webdawg1

Just a little bit of "Trivia". Was out in the garage today cleaning up spare "Theromotime Switch" (I.E. - Contact cleaning for connector, Brass body for switch...etc...etc) When I started cleaning on the brass body I started to see letters and numbers on the flats. After I cleaned it a little bit more I saw the following info: Made in Germany ???? 11.74 150 degree's C max 12V 40W VDO 36/4/14 18 Degree's C 12 sec Just curious to see if anyone else has ever noticed this "Made in Germany" info, as I was expecting it to say something like "Made in Japan" or something to that effect. webdawg1

I'm checking out a place in atlanta, GA called "Abrasives & Equipment of Atlanta" url for their website: www.abrasivesandequipment.com From what I've looked at so far, as far as information goes, it looks like you can only use it one time when you blast something because it basically turns to dust when it hits the surface that you are blasting. (It self destructs (the blasting media) instead of heating up the metal that you are blasting. Appears to be the way to go if you want to do the entire shell at one time, or in stages depending on what part of the body you would want to blast. webdawg1

You can also use a product called "Seafoam". They also have an aerosol version (called "Deep Creep") that you can inject into the spark plug holes...other internal parts for long term storage. url for website is: www.seafoamsales.com webdawg1

Is this what you are talking about in you post? Perhaps this picture might help a little bit in regards to the hinges. webdawg1

Did some searching on some of the other Z websites and found a "Dupont" brand Mix-Your-Own-Paint formula. Hope it helps... webdawg1 Subject: Z engine paint (Turquoise) (TURQUOISE) engine paint used on early Zs. Find a Dupont Dealer and ask them to mix up a quart (5 or more engines) [or split it in half for a pint] of Dupont "Chroma 1" paint. Be sure and buy the "Chroma 1" catalyst and reducer also. Tinting guide mix size 806J HS BLACK 177.2 801J HS WHITE 290.0 828J HS FAST BLUE 373.8 830J HS FAST GREEN 444.4 702OG BINDER 844.0 7030G BALANCER 960.4