panchovisa

Frank, last time I checked your gallery there was only a picture of your rear end. Turn around this time buddy!

Frank, I said Visa owns me, not owes me. I wish they did, but they don't. Hope you computer gets fixed b-4 sweetgrrl runs out of patience.

Now all we need is Frank13 to post a picture to prove he will be "the cute one" at MSA Nationals. I think he meant of just the guys Holly.

Pictures, yes we need pictures. It's the internet, and well, you never know. Frank, Visa owns me!!!!!!

If a title is desired, and paperwork is the problem, then here is something that someone I know did. Buy the cheapest rusty piece of junk Z (the actual car was a Vette) of the correct year/model ($200 should do it for a Z). Take the tag off the dash, door jam, engine compartment, etc. Pull the engine and transmission. Remove the liscence plates. Cut the car into pieces and call the metal scrap dealer to take away. Nobody else will ever have those numbers again. Put all the pieces (you were going to rebuild an engine someday anyway, right?) into your clean car. Take the title and old plates to the DMV and get new plates/ registration/ state title. It's not my recomendation, but only an annecdote of what lenghts some go to get a clean title.

About the only performance aspects of plugs would be the correct heat range, gap, and to have the proper washers so that plug threads are not exposed to combustion chamber. Also so that plug is not to short (head threads exposed). Any exposed threads create hot spots that can cause detonation.

Sparkplugs ignite the fuel air mixture. They either work or don't. No horsepower from "better/ faster/ hotter/ cooler/ fluffier/ prettier/ nicer" spark. You want more power add more fuel+air/ displacement/ compression/ all the other things that cost more than $8.00!!!!

I know that 2mZ's and others have helped me (maybe sometimes without even knowing it!). It is very difficult sometimes to decsribe the problem and harder to describe the many possible reasons. I wish PUSHER lived in my city, I'd go over there (but only if the beer was cold) and start ripping into that car until it was fixed (or at least it was KNOW what was wrong). I am a firm beliver that the rear cross member is one of the great performance (handling) handicaps of the Z car design. Attached is a photo of how I improved the rinky-dink design of small bolts in large holes/ flimsy three piece x-member.

Tomohawk, The Mallory rev limited I've got is the generic solution you want. It doesn't attach to tach (mine is mechanical), electronic or point ignition is no problem, heck it doesn't even care if your 4,6, or 8 cylinders! If you're really interested search the Mallory web site(try other ignition mfg also)

Sblake, why don't we start a new thread: Frank13 looking for new diggs and squeeze. Maybe sweetgrrl has a room for rent???????

Wait a minute here, have we been had????? Tomohawk, don't you have an automatic? That is your rev limiter.

sweergrrl, would you just post a mugshot for franksinlove13. I can't stand the suspence any longer. Frank just PM her would ya! Somethings should be private. PS Frank you will invite me to the wedding, right?

Tomohawk, yep thats what they do. Where they connect isn't important.

Tomohawk, I have a generic Mallory rev limiter on my car. It is adjustable. You can see it in picture of my interior in my gallery. It is calibrated for an 8 cylinder engine, but through trial and error you find the setting your looking for. I use it now with stock 240 ignition, but it also worked with crank triggered MSD-7 ignition. It's a vintage piece, but I'd try looking at Mallory's web site for more modern version.

Pusher, when the PO put the long bushings on one side and the short bushings on the otherside, do you think he didn't have to "persuade" things back together???? A "persuader" is another name for a hammer! You know, a Mexican screwdriver (I can say that because I'm Pancho). I'm almost certain your rear cross-member is not where it should be.

Pusher, it's so frustrating trying to help over the internet. The Z was designed to have toe-in on BOTH rear wheels. If drivers side looks "toeless) it is also out of wack along with passenger side. All your attention has been focused on the passenger side, and I've found that when I limit my focus I can't see the problem. Stand back, look at the big picture, don't be afraid to take some things apart to make sure they are correct. Remember the crazy inner bushing f-up? No telling what other things PO did. Maybe problem is at outerbushings??????

Pusher, Go back to the beginning of this thread. I told you that if the three pieces that make up the rear cross member have been moved sideways it would f-up the toe settings. Maybe it's time now to loosen some of the cross member bolts and knock stuff back where it belongs?

Pusher, I believe your talking about the gland nut that retains the shock insert in the strut tube? If you broke off the hex, than the shock insert is still in the tube right? Find a large nut at Home Depot/ hardware store. It should be small enough across the flats to allow welding to what remains of gland nut, but you may have to drill out inside of nut to fit over shock rod (leave some clearance). The taller nut (even after laying a weld against the flats) will give you more to grab onto than the thin hex of the gland nut. Try heating the strut tube (to expand it) and cooling just the gland nut in water ( to shrink it) before wrenching. Good luck.

Mr Camoflage, thanks for you translated the. Race three x's, 3x's lace victory! Max ponypower to thee.

I also clean all my bolts. What I use is a Scotch-Brite wheel on my bench grinder. It is a medium grade so it doesn't remove material. I don't believe that you can completely remove the cadmium plateing this way. Yes, the color changes from "gold" to a "chrome" color, but unless you remove .0005" worth of plating it's still plated. Cadmium is a "chrome" colored material by itself, the "gold cadmium" plating is a coloration for asthethics. Regardless of how much Cad is still on the bolt, the finish is so much smoother that there is little for rust to start it's attack from. I also clear coat the bolts to protect the luster and it's easy to re-touch after your wrench slips! I have reconditioned rusted bolts to shining beauties this way. See my gallery, the big bolts to the inner rear a-arm pivots were restored this way.