SteveJ

You should be able to push fluid through the bleeder screws at the MC. It's just like pushing brake fluid through the calipers and wheel cylinders.

Make sure you can bleed the brakes before you say that.

If I didn't see it, it doesn't exist. Kind of like how a lot of Americans say Nissan didn't make a 260Z in 1977.

You can thank my brother, who educated me on fusible links 26 years ago.

I could afford it, but then I'd have to sleep in the damn car after the wife figured out how much I spent on it.

So did you do any of the things I suggested in Post #6?

Yesterday I spent a little time to pick up a lot of the tools that were collecting around the car. Today I decided to address the horn issue. I bought some Hella horns, and I took off the first stock horn. After I unplugged it, I noticed the accumulation of 30+ years of dirt and corrosion. I took a wire brush to clean the electrical contacts and tested the horn. It worked just fine. So I put it back in the car. I pressed the horn button a couple of times, and the horn still worked. Okay, so the horn relay is good, too. I unbolted the other horn, and it fell right into my hand after I removed the second bolt. It wasn't even hooked to its wire. D'oh! It's probably been like that for over 28 years. I cleaned the electrical contacts and bolted it back in. After a couple of presses on the horn button, the second horn came to life. Okay, I have spare horns, and tomorrow, I'll take delivery of a spare horn relay. With the horn in working order, I took off the lug nuts and loaded the tires into the station wagon. Tomorrow the wife will take the tires to the tire store where they will be replaced with some Falken Azenis RT615K+ tires, 195/60R14. Yes, I found a performance type tire that will fit on the old Iron Cross wheel. So the old girl rests quietly waiting for the night.

But the nice thing is that it's available. Z Car Garage was seeing 350 RWHP and was still planning on tuning some more. That's what a lot of guys are getting with forced induction.

I saw some threads when this DOHC was being developed, and I read an article about it on the Z Car Garage blog. https://www.zcarblog.com/2021/07/30/performance/datsunworks-twin-cam-power-for-your-l-series-engine.html Z Car Garage has also worked on at least one Z with an OS Giken DOHC head.

https://zcarsource.com/spring-set-front-rear-260z-280z-74-5-78-new/ Frankly the Chevette springs were a great improvement in my 260Z over the tired stock springs.

I have not been impressed with the quality of what he has sold. Anyway, the springs for Chevettes are getting harder to find. I bought them on Rockauto 7 years ago for about $40/pair. Here's a thread where John Coffey was talking about it:

You could use Chevette springs and cut them to height. That works well. I would definitely do that before going to California Datsun.

In your "want to buy" ad, I provided you with links where you could buy a proper fusible link. I advise you not to jury rig a fix. If you do not use a fusible link, you risk an electrical fire that could burn up your car.

Just note that the voltage adjustment was for the old style points voltage regulator. A solid-state voltage regulator, which is pretty much all that is available now, probably does not have any adjustment.

Um, I think that WAS your fusible link. That would not be a ground. Do not replace it with a piece of wire. http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catWiring.php https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4332

Too many ugga-duggas.

Careful, Jeff. This is a family oriented forum.

I'm not sure exactly when you are experiencing this disconnect. I can tell you that when you release the key going from START to ON, there could be a momentary drop in voltage. It's nothing for a typical ignition (electronic or mechanical) since the inertia of the engine will keep things going during that gap. It might not hurt to reach out to Haltech about that. If it is a real problem, I could guide you on a possible solution.

Here's a thought for the fill plug. Use a 3/4 to 1/2 socket reducer (https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-47823-4-Inch-2-Inch-Reducer/dp/B000NQ4R4G) to go on the male plug. Grip the socket reducer with a pipe wrench for leverage. I would think that would be difficult to round the fill plug.

Turn off the vacuum pump and watch the vacuum gauge. If you have leaks, it shouldn't take too long for the pressure to start creeping up. I can't give a quantitative value, but I'm sure you could find some references on how far down to draw the system and how long it should be able to hold the vacuum.

I'm not sure why this came to mind after reading your post...

Unfortunately you picked the wrong time to be CDO. (I prefer having the letters in alphabetical order.) 😉

Yeah, a little later I found myself wondering how it could have gotten out of sync, since I don't recall seeing anyone describing touching the chain while doing the valve stem replacement.

Good point. It's not like electric motors have a displacement.

If you ever do this again, make sure the car is in gear and wheels are chocked before you apply the compressed air. That will keep the pistons from moving. How much PSI were you using? Someone else will have to provide guidance on the timing chain, but yeah, you're going to have to reduce tension to get the chain on. Life is a cruel teacher. You get the test first and the lesson afterward.