SteveJ

The Chiltons wiring diagram is generic & therefore not accurate on some points. Look at the links in my signature and download the FSM. I haven't ever done a GM 3 wire alternator conversion, so I don't know which wire is which. I believe there are writeups online, but you'll have to search for them.

Click on the Go Advanced button below this thread on the right side of the screen. After you do that, the advanced features should appear between the text box for a Title and the text box for the message. Click on the paperclip. That will allow you to upload files.

Does it have the original ignition (points)? If so, I would suspect the coil. If you replace the coil, replace the ballast resistor at the same time. If the ignition has been changed to an electronic ignition, that's where you should start your search.

Post pictures of your engine bay/distributor. Be sure to include a picture of the distributor with the cap off, too.

Break out the wiring diagram and follow the wires. Common problem areas include the switch contacts, the connector that goes into the switch, and corrosion in the fusebox. If you search in the electrical section, you can find many posts by myself and Dave (Zs-ondabrain) describing this circuit. Once you get the problem fixed, consider swapping out the bulbs in the running lights & turn signals for LED bulbs. Also clean out any corrosion you find in the bulb sockets. If you swap out your 1157 bulbs for LEDs, you will need electronic flashers for your turn signals and hazard lights.

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Ouch. I hope it didn't cause any other problems in your electrical system.

Also, XenonS30 has the FSMs available for download.

Why don't you download it from the link in Post #7?

The build date should be on the VIN plate in the driver's side door jamb.

As you try to figure out whether or not parts will work, look at the link in my signature for the Datsun Parts Manual. It can help you get a quick answer on parts compatibility.

Arne, the OP added a signature with the model year after my reply.

The female side of the connector should be part of the body wiring harness. The colors of the wires going into that connector will give you a clue about the colors of the wires on the other side. Let's assume you have a 72 or 73. (It helps to make sure you post the year of your car in your query or put it in your signature.) Since I don't have time to go down to my car, I'm going to guess that the wire colors are Red, Red/Blue, Black, and Green. It's likely that's the connector for the warning lights. It would normally be identified on page BE-3 of the 73 FSM, but for some reason it did not get broken out like the rest of the connectors.

While those two circuits are controlled by the same switch, they are almost completely electrically isolated from each other. Did you look through other posts here and try those suggestions? Have you looked at the factory service manual? The circuits are drawn well in the Body Electrical section. Find a link to it below.

Since the problem is happening after it heats up and goes away when it cools down, the chances are that it's electrical. Take one of those cans of compressed gas. You know what I'm talking about. The ones you use to blow off dust from electronics, etc. When your car is warm and misfiring, hold the can upside down so the liquid comes out, and spray it on your ECU to cool it down. See if your misfire goes away. If not, try doing it to your coil & ignition modules. Also inspect connections to the igntion module and ECU for corrosion. Clean them and protect them with dielectric grease.

I assume you're talking about the 73. No, they are on completely different circuits. Look at the wiring diagram in the FSM. The White/Red wire (main power) branches off to a 20A fuse inline fuse. The other side of the fuse is a Blue wire. It goes through the accessory relay and come out as a Blue wire. That wire goes to the blower motor. The common thread is that the wires are in the dash. Remove the center console and the fan controls to look for damaged/hacked wires or disconnected wires. For whatever reason, the FSM doesn't have anything that I've been able to find to describe the blower motor aside from the wiring diagram. If you look at page BE-3, you'll see where the connections are for the lights. If your fusible link was gone, you'd have a lot more problems than the blower motor and warning lights.

Did you have voltage on one side of the switch?

Look through Blue's links for adjusting the valves.

Rob, Look up Vintage Connections. Del is a great guy to do business with. I've used plenty of his connectors in rehabilitating my 74.

You could also try Roger at ZBarn.

Rob, I think this thread might help you with the diagnostics on the turn signal. Look at the posts that were made in the last week in the thread.

You won't find many uncracked replacement dashes. Expect to pay North of $2G if you do find a good one. If you want to pay that price, search this site for "dash in a box". I think Eddie Radatz still has one. It won't be completely correct for a 73, but it will be close.

Read up on relays for the headlights. Between myself and Dave Irwin, you can find lots of information on the headlight circuit. As for the turn signal, check to see if it lights up with the hazard switch. That will give you some idea of where the problem is. Just follow the wiring diagrams in the FSM.

If you have it going clockwise, that could be your problem.

Unfortunately, that topic comes up fairly often. I was lucky that when my hood release cable broke, it was just after the latch released. I did a jury rig fix with some braided cable until I got another proper cable.