SteveJ

Well, that was fast. The connecters arrived a little while ago, and I have put them in a divided storage container so they will be ready to use. If you need YPC connectors, hi-1000ec.com is legitimate. I purchased extra male 3-pin and 6-pin waterproof connectors. The 3-pin is for wiring a conventional Bosch relay for the AC relay. The 6-pin is for jumpering out the voltage regulator connectors in 75-77 280Zs when converting them to internally regulated alternators. I bought connectors that could be used for the center gauges, too. It could also come in handy for a conversion to Speedhut gauges.

I just experimented with pin removal tools until I hit the jackpot. Some of it is luck, and some of it is actual research paying off. I think I bought the Molex pin remover after taking measurements of the male pins and searching for pin removal tools with that dimension. The iwiss was dumb luck since I was interested in getting a weatherpack terminal crimper.

Well, most non-trucks have transverse mounted engines, so they aren't positioned for an engine mounted fan to draw air through a radiator.

I'd like to add that with the male 6-pin waterproof connectors would work for jumpering out the voltage regulator on a 280Z. It's too bad the 260Z uses a different connector.

I found a website that lists many of the old YPC connectors for sale. Here's a link to their YPC inventory: https://www.hi-1000ec.com/product-list?keyword=ypc&Submit=Search&page=1 The last item in the search is for a pin removal tool, too. The website whois shows a registration in Japan. I placed an order last night, and today I received an email with a photo of the shipping label and a photo of the parts I ordered bagged up. That certainly inspires confidence in ordering. This should help in making repairs and modifications to 260Zs and 280Zs.

Make sure you can bring in a 10 AWG wire into that fuse box if you're going to be running the fan from there.

Frankly I haven't worried too much about relay brands for a very simple reason. I try to reduce current flow through the mechanical switches, and I'm not adding load. The exception would be an electric fan for the radiator. If you're using a 20 or 30 A relay for an LED headlight circuit, you'll be well within the design parameters of most any relay you find.

I also found this site recently that has the 2, 3, 4, and 6 pin Yazaki shells and pins: https://www.hi-1000ec.com/product/1133 They also have the waterproof Yazaki YPC: https://www.hi-1000ec.com/product-list/50

Okay, I made sure I found the right part numbers. For the male pins, this extractor works: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G46DJVU The larger side is the one that fits over the male pins. For the female pins, the Iwiss (also known as Icrimp) WR01 works. I bought it with a weather pack crimping tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GB698KV/, but you can also get it with a couple of other pin extractors: https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Extractor-Removal-Metri-Pack-Connectors-3/dp/B08PKLZXCX Here's a photo of the extractors:

I'll try to remember to provide the tools I use when I get home.

I think @Zed Head found them a long time ago. I ordered some about 7 years ago.

Yes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JS8OU9M

And I found the email after the order. Look at that price. 😞 I think one of the Jims posted about finding it 5 years ago. Nope! It was @Zed Head. The good news was that I did get a windshield 3 years ago for a great price thanks to a hook-up from a friend.

And I checked my email archives to find the cancellation from Summit (5 years ago). It had the part number, so I looked it up.

I think Summit Racing used to list the Pilkington windshields. I tried to order one, and the ship date kept moving out until my order was cancelled.

Correct, the high/low beam switch on the turn signal stalk.

Considering it's both headlights missing low beam, the most likely problem is with the switch.

It's from the factory. If you crimp it properly, it can last for over 50 years. 😉

No. But a 75 or 76 door would probably work.

I've also done custom relay installations where you can't even see the relays. That's nice for people who want to minimize the visibility of modifications. Anyway, the non-polarity dependent bulbs are great for 260Z and 280Z owners since more modifications would be necessary to get the relays to work.

Polarity isn't important if you use H4 housings with these H4 LED bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TQLK6SH

Holy crap! Now the Bosch relay is out of stock everywhere!

The SKP alternator for the 4 cylinder Frontier has the correct pulley. All of those that I have installed worked just fine.

All of the details are in post #4 in this thread.

The only modifications I needed to make were wiring related. I had to put a bigger ring on the wire for the B terminal. I put a 2 pin connector on the pigtail for the Frontier alternator to connect the S & L wires, and I had to de-pin 4 wires from the VR connector (only needed for 74-77) to jumper the wires for the S & L terminals. Oh, I did need a longer bolt for the front alternator mount for some reason. Otherwise, it fits like a glove.