mayolives

I stripped down another 78 280z a fews years ago in order to have it painted and there were clips on that car's trim. When I look at the underside of the uninstalled trim piece that came with this car, I see several darker areas, about an 3/4" long, where the clips originaly sat on the trim. When I try to install this trim over the drip rail, it's much too wide to hold in place, from one end to the other. Perhaps the trim could be flattened a bit to help it pinch the drip rail and stay on, but I'm reluctant to do this and end up with a wavy and dented trim piece. But if I can't source what I want, and as a last resort, this may be my only option. I do have some time to locat the clips due to the long list of other, under to hood items that need my attention. Thanks for the replys but I'm still lookin'!

I'm putting the 78 280z back together that I purchased from an estate. One of the stainless trim pieces for the drip rail was not installed on the car. I don't have the "clips" that fasten the trim to the body. I'm not sure what they are called because I haven't found any reference to this trim in the body section of my FSM. Any idea where I can find these clips. If I remember correctly, they are made of spring steel and each side trim piece has four or five clips.

I had the same experience a few months ago. A retired friend had just started to drive for Uber so out of curiosity, I went to the uber site to see what the deal was. Within a few hours my phone had emails from Lift asking me to become a driver. A part of me also thought nah, this is crazy. How could they know!

How are you trying to remove the old bushing? Do you have a pilot shaft bushing puller? It's the proffessional way to remove what's in there. EZPEEZE !

zKars, You would need to hold a gun to my head in order for me to reuse any of those old head bolts. Bite the bullet and get a fresh, new set. They won't break most banks. They are about a hundred bucks for a set of OEM bolts!

I have always liked "nipple" talk. Thank you for the help again.

Zed Head, Thanks. Good easy idea!

This 78 280z is the car I referred to with my EGR question earlier today. The fuel pump had been removed but a new Nissan pump was in the car. I checked it's part number and it is the correct one for this car. That's a score because Nissan isn't giving them away! The new pump does not have a pumping direction marked on it. I suppose I could run some water through it to determine in what direction it pumped but I'd rather not do that to a new pump. One end of it is flat and has no hose connections. The other end has an extended nipple for a hose. On top of the canister, near the flat end is the other hose nipple. The electrical connections are both marked so I'm good to go with that. Any idea which connection is the inlet and the outlet?

Zed Head, The block-off plate is shinny and new looking. The area where it sets on the intake is clean with no rust. I'm reluctant to remove it because I'm sure I will destroy the gasket. Sure I can make a new one but it all looks very neat and tidy. I have the reciept for the block-off plate. It is from Zcardepot and was dated less the two years ago. So if I understand what you have told me, just that plate and the plug installed in the exhaust header will do the trick? Thank you for your help!

I purchased a non running, 78 280z from an estate. The EGR had been removed and a block-off plate had been installed. I put a solid fitting into the exhaust header to seal it off. Under the area where the block-off plate sets, there is a threaded hole. Originally it was fitted with the pipe that went to the header. Do I need fill that threaded hole with a plug?

Myrtle Beach, SC area. No gas to be had. Thousands of HD riders here for Spring get-together along with many beach vacation travelers. Those who need to go home on Friday because of the new arrivals that come on Saturday along with those who are driving here from up North are all asking themselves, "where can I find gas"? Prices were starting at $2.69. What will they be soon?????

I suspect that It would take a lot to damage it by dropping it on a rubber mat, but I agree that your problem could be located at the countershaft. Also, if you installed gears from different transmissions, this could easily cause a whine due to wear patterns not being the same. Could the gears "wear in" with more use? It's difficult to judge just how loud your whine is from the video due to not having the console in place, etc. I have a G-force gear box in one of my cars that really whines and sings all the time so I'm kind of numb to the noise. How much have you driven your car and has the whine sound changed, louder or less loud during test drives?

QUOTE: " I am trying to figure out if these are things I could fix myself." Working with springs and struts on these cars requires, knowledge, and the correct tools. The springs can really hurt you if you don't know what you are doing! Tread carefully! If you are not equiped, find someone who is and has the experience to help you or do it for you. Your pictures indicate to me that your front end needs work and I suspect that your car doesn't handle as it should.

I can't imagine not replacing all the clutch parts, including the slave cyl. and the pilot shaft bushing while you are in there. I always buy a "clutch kit" so that it all works together as it should. Mixing parts from different models/years can get you in trouble. Lot's of info here about what to avoid.

I used zcardepot's replacement antenna on a 77 280 last year. I fit and worked like new. As I remember, I had to trace the wiring to get it working correctly.

QUOTE: "I do have a FSM but have no clue where to start". I understand your lack of experience, but there is hope. Again, the FSM is your friend. Go to the Engine Tune-Up section, trouble diagnoses and corrections, ET14. Just follow the probable causes for the condition you told us about earlier. Work through some of that and repost. It's difficult to offer advice without more information from you. These engines are somewhat simple compaired to today's engines that need to be "plugged" in to diagnose problems. Hang in there. Many of us where exactly where you are at a point in the past. There are a few good and helpful members here that will probably help you to get up and running after you are able to provide more feedback.

Your problem could be a number of things. A good battery is a place to start. Check your fuel pressure with a gauge installed in the gas line before it enters the fuel filter. The cold start system is more complacated and I would suggest down loading a factory service manual to learn about it. Guessing with new parts is not a good idea and can become expensive. The FSM has all the answers. Do you have a friend close by who knows more than you do? Keep us posted.

QUOTE "Im installing the JDM taillights so I removed the brake switch from the turn signal circuit. Also I installed another 1157 socket on the top row of taillights of the JDM lights. This gives a much better brake light." Please explain how you removed the brake switch from turn signsl circut.

Yes, That is my typo. My 240 is a 1973. Opps!

During the past months I have replaced the clutch assembly in a 74 240z, 78 280z, and a 79 280zx. I ordered and received all three clutch kits from Zcardepot and all three worked just fine!

I have used this method many times. Not when building a new engine, but when working with oil pump or distributor. I remove all 6 spark plugs then use a remote starter button/switch, place my finger in #1 hole and when piston comes up on compression stroke you will feel it. Then I manually turn the engine over to move piston to the top of cylinder by watching it and the TDC timing mark. When the piston is at the top and TDC marks align you are where you need to be to insert pump or distributor. No need to remove valve cover. Works for me!

What are you working on? What year is your car?

I reused mine with no problems. Be sure to use snap ring pliars when removing and reinstalling them. Best not to "dig" them out with a screw driver or other tools because you could bend and deform them.

Blue's collection of tech tips I used this link when rebuilding my 5 spped a few monts ago. Lot's of good advice that, along with the FSM, walked me through it.