mayolives

1978 280z I want to replace my fusible link holder with a new blade fuse box. When I search here, I get thousands of post to review. Many fuse boxes are listed on Amazon and other sites. Any thoughts on the better ones to use? .

Strange Fuel Pressure I finished replacing my fuel pump today along with all the rubber fuel lines at the pump except the one that goes to the tank. In addition I replaced the fuel filter and all the rubber fuel lines going in and out of the filter. Started it up and still have low fuel pressure. My gauge reads about 26 lbs and doesen't move with higher rpms. However, when I disconnect the vac. hose to the regulator I get about 38 lbs at adle with no real change at higher rpms. I replaced that regulator along with a bunch of vac. hose about two years ago (2000 miles) because the old regulator was really rusted and the smaller vac. lines were in rough shape. Do I have a bad regulator? Any ideas?

I'm replacing the pump because of low fuel pressure. Looked like nothing back there had been touched since new. So that was the only problem. I alway suffer with the "while I'm at it" thing when I work on my cars.

The front end look great! It could easily be changed by the new owner. I suspect if he couldn't figure that out he probably would not be interested in buying a really nice z car.

I removed my fuel pump today and cleaned up all the mounting hardware in order to replace it along with with some new fuel hose. I've done this a few times on other z cars over the past decades. However, I've never replaced the fuel damper. I have removed dampers on at least two cars in the past with no ill effect. Can a fuel damper go bad? I suspect a damper doesn't have moving parts and it's there to prevent pulsations in the fuel delivery. My damper looks bad on the outside but it's canister is in solid condition. I doubt I could find a new OEM one if I wanted one. What could go bad with an OEM damper?

Your quote....Since it's an electric pump it will either work or it won't and not become weaker, correct?" I'm supprised no one else responded to this question. A few years ago I replaced my 260's pump because it wasn't running well and the fuel pressure was reading too low. I don't remember how low but it was much lower that FSM spec. I used a new Nissan pump and it restored the pressure to spec and my problem was resolved. My two cents.

The last time I had to remove that stuff was in very hot, SC summer weather. It was a messy job but using a lot of patience, lots of rags and 3M adhesive remover worked for me. I'm not sure of a better way! Have fun and don't forget your gloves!

If you are doing trans. work and not using a lift, this jack works really good! I've had mine for many years and it has been a big help when working alone.

I've used the POR 15 tank treatment two times. Worked well for me and both cars are running strong after at least 5 or 6 years. What treatment did you use? Doesn't look like it did much to protect your tank!

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This "two screw in the can lid" advice works really well! I used Por 15 products for the rust repair and had to go back to the paint can three times. I've wasted a lot of Por 15 paint in the past but not this time. Really a good idea.

I removed my wipers and the trim today. The side trim does have two screws located under the door weatherstrip. After removing the screws I was able to wiggle the trim loose from the trim above the door. There were no plastic clips present holding the trim in place. No sign of adhesive either. Perhaps this is why the bottom trim was never held in place very well and my top piece just flew off one day after a drive. I will take my glass man's advice when he arrives to determine the best way to keep the top and bottom trim in place. I do new upper and lower strips and a small rubber seal for the permiter of the glass. I'll post my resulting experience after the job has been completed.

My 79 is a non t bar.

Zed Head, My FSM page BF23 is completly different than the one you posted above. It only refers to interior trim and no mention of removing the windshield trim. I'm glad you found this info in your FSM. I probably would have had a problem with this new advice.

Zed Head, Just in case of "distructive disassembly", I have a complete set of good trim at the ready.

So again I believe I've answered my own questions. No thanks to my FSM. I good search here on the site have explained what I need to do. Apparently there are screws under the door seals on the "A" pillar that need to be remived in order to remove the windshield trim. Thanks again to Classiczcars site.

1979 280ZX coupe I'm having a new windshield installed next week and I need to properly remove the trim before my glass man arrives. I can't find a thing in my FSM. Section BF-16 describes the glass part but says "remove the wipers, front pillar garnishes and windshield garnish". It goes on to say" refer to roof trimming for removal". Thus far and have not located anywhere in my FSM that deals with roof trimming. Any ideas where this can be found in FSM. Can anyone describe how I can remome the metal trim without damaging it?

RIP260z: I have searched many times with no luck. If you could find a part number that would be helpful. Also I will gladly purchase any that you may have. Thanks, Tom. (mayolives)

Would you be willing to sell these clips? If so shoot me a price with shipping to N. Myrtle Beach, SC 29582. Thanks, Tom.

I've been looking for these clips for some time. I forget how many per side, perhaps four.

I have a set.

Thanks for all the good suggestions. I don't have much experience with body work. I've paid the price to others over my many years. I agree with comments about the rusted area probably being larger that I can see now. I've used POR 15 products for years and I know it's good stuff. Too bad I don't weld so I plan on using the short hair fiber route. Hopefully the so called "matching" aero paint I ordered will make it all look good.

My 79 zx has a small rust buble, about 1 1/2 inches square, over/under the top windshield trim. The windshied is cracked and scheduled to be replaced. I want to repair the rust buble while the glass is out. I suppose Bondo could do the job but is there a better product that would be as easy and better to use?

I've used two sets of MSA quarter winder seals with no problems. They fit well. Disassemble the windows carefully, clean and buff the frames and the body of your car really well, reassemble and install. Take your time with the tiny screws on the frame and where they mount to the body. They are "fiddly" and can be stuck and stripped easily. Use some pen. oil to lossen them.