Zs-ondabrain

have you considered a longer linkage between the ballance tube and the carbs rear throttle??

I here ya, BOTH of my Z's have the 85' Toyota 4X4 4 piston Caliper set-up on them. I won't go back to stock after this swap. Next swap is the 280ZX rear disk brake conversion on the 260Z. Hope they work as good as they are gonna look. Dave

WOW Tom, Like clockwork, you chime in with some lame excuse for a post. The fun never ends with you, does it? If you spent some time looking at other websites, you'd find that Nissan, Toyota and a few other "Asian" market cars are manufactured either in whole or in part right here in the "Good Ol' USA. And employ Thousands of people, nation wide. Chrystler won't be able to claim that for too long, will they? I feel real sorry for those who have recently purchased from them, unknowing that they would be screwed in the future. Where the hell did the BILLIONS of Our dollars go, that they recieved to Bail themselves out? FWIW Dave

I second that. Scion and a few others are gobbling up the young market with their "Box" cars. It only makes sense to follow suit. That's where the money is and in todays market, being stubborn and one sided puts you in the same market as Chrystler (Being bought out and bankrupt) Nissan has come too far to ignore future trends. The "Big 3" have already suffered by not following the pack. FWIW Dave.

Let me know if you have any trouble on locating a new window. I have a spare here at the house from the 260Z. And it'll work perfect (speaking from experience) Dave

Fused power to pin 30 (14 or 12 guage is great) (15 amp fuse should be fine) ground wire to pin 85 starter wire to pin 86 wire from pin 87 to starter solenoid (14 or 12 guage wire) easy enough, great power to solenoid, easier on the ignition switch and also allows you to use a low amperage push button switch if you wanna do that kinda thing to your Z....... Dave

And mine is a daily driver, in WASHington state, you do the math......

I've been watching NWCN and they keep saying possible sprinkles for sunday. decent temps, but spinkles and possible rain.

That's actually a pretty good idea, I'll keep it in mind for the next set I do.

If you live in a Hot weather area, they will fall apart without that clip holding it together. I rebuild these and instal LED plates in them, which requires seperating everything. Just be carefull, if you break the clip off, you might have to drill thru the chrome strip and instal a 2" skinny bolt with a washer and nut. Just angle the edges of the head of the bolt to fit into the chrome strips valley. I use 0000 steel wool and warm soapy water to clean the chrome strips up, then I tape them off and use flat or satin black paint in the valley of the strips. You can use Acetone on the lens but don't leave it on too long, just use it to wipe off exhaust fume stains, paint and glue residue. You can wetsand them with 800 or 1000 grit and then buff them out with a plastic polish. I also like to use Meguiars Cleaner Wax to remove crap and exhaust fume stains.

Nope, gotta do a valve adjustment and a few remedial tasks and she should be good to go. I hope the weather holds out, that year with the constant sprinkles was a PITA. Roll up the windows, roll down the windows, and repeat. Dave

Damn, missed it again. I got a car show on the 13th in Arlington, Washington and Canby, OR on the 14th.

Your parking light fuse is likely loose, or bad. remove the fuse (3rd fuse down on the right, in the fuse box) and replace it or test it. squeeze the fuse clamps a little to make sure they are contacting good and holding the fuse right. The brakes go thru the turn signal switch, so you likely have a problem in the switch. might be time to pull it apart and clean it up. Clean all your bulbs and sockets as a precautionary thing.

In that case, Connect the red/white wire to a Positive supply and connect the white wire to the green/white wire on the dash side of the combo switch connector. Or connect it to the green/blue on the combo switch side of the connector. And the 10 amp flash should be more than sufficiant. It's just a flash, your not driving the circuit for a long time. As for the PLH, I've been making the 9-pin PLH for the mid 73' to early 76' Z's for just under a year. They are the same price as the 6-pin (70' to 73') $50 Dave

My eyes are still wiggling from watching that video. Is your suspension THAT bad? or was the camera guy a shakey individual? Wish we lived in CA but pretty damn happy with our weather here lately.

Stop..... If the alarm is putting out a Neg. signal, it's probably only a 500ma signal. Not nearly enough to flash the parking lights. Use a relay, as described in your instructions, to flash the parking lights. If you have one of my PLH parking light upgrade harness's, tap the small wire going to the relay. If you need to wire up a relay to convert the (-) signal to a (+) output, follow these instructions..... Fused 12 volt wire to the 87 terminal small wire from the 87 terminal to the 86 terminal pin 30 to the parking lights wire (green/white) Connect the alarms (white?) parking light flash wire to the 85 terminal. This will turn the .5 amp output wire into a higher amp (15+) output wire. enough to flash the lights and not hurt the alarm.

Fixed. I was talking to someone about power distribution blocks taday and got it stuck in my head. So call it a slip.

And that's what my (or any one elses) MSD does. As the name says "MSD Multiple Spark Discharge" It basically sends multiple signals to the coil. The more sparks in each cylinder per compression stroke, the better combustion, the better combustion, the more horsepower and fuel economy you'll get. That's why I'm such a stickler for good grounding and power distribution. The better the signal, the better chance of the equipment operating properly. Also, The splitfire plugs can be compared to 2 antenna's on a roof top, lighting is only going to hit one of them at a time, but nver both simaltaniously, unless they are very close to each other. And properly working equipment is what we're all about here, right? Dave

If the gap is too small, the spark will be small, as the .032 provides a wide enough area for the spark to get hot enough to create a better burn. If the gap is too large, either the spark will not reach from the electrode to the bridge, or, if it does, it's power will have been spent before it makes it to the bridge. I have the Mallory Promaster coil and the MSD 6AL. The two together gives me more than Double the spark power. My plugs are gapped at .065 and I can go even bigger if I want. So, going with a bigger coil than stock (Blaster 2) will allow a bigger spark and wider gap. The bigger spark and larger gap increases fuel milage, Horse Power and better emissions. the reason for this is Better Burn. the best fuel milage is produced by the best burn of the least amount of fuel. Increasing spark allows for an increase of fuel, which increases Horse Power. You get the idea. Hope that helps. Dave

Took these on the Maryhill cruise last month. This is at the Sam Hill Museum in Maryhill.

Picture perfect. Very nice Julio.

Hey Now. I've NEVER proclaimed myself to be an Electrical Genius. That's what all the other guys usually say. And as always, I tell them NOPE, I'm just a guy that tries my best to figure out what the hell those crazy Japanese were thinking when they designed the electrical harness's in these cars. And being as how I also have a 260Z, I'd follow what BEEZEE said about bypassing the relay. And who the hell can focus on anything after a pint of CR??? Not Me. Dave.

It's a white plug (T type 2 pin) located to the left of the blower moter, behind the fuse box, below the radio, usually taped to the large harness that runs vertically up into the dash. Use a 10 amp fuse between the wires. Dave

You can also get up to 60MPH on the freeway, use a clock (with seconds hand) or stopwatch and do this...... Be at exactly 60 (by your speedo) when you pass a Mile marker on the freeway, start the clock/stopwatch. It should take exactly 60 seconds to do 1 mile @ 60 PMH If it takes you longer to do the 1 mile at 60, your speedo is slow. If you do the mile faster than 60 seconds (ei: 55 seconds?) your speedo is too fast. (If it takes 65 seconds to do the mile, your car is actually doing 55 MPH) Follow Arne's instructions but on the side, you can run her down the freeway and check this way as well. Another way is.... If you have an emissions station somewhere close, yo can ask them to put it on the roller and check their readout versus your speedo. (I've done it this way, when they are not full of customers or bored)

I watch it all the time and my one big concern, dealing with my own rust issues, is that some of these cars that he turns into "SMC"s are real friggin rust buckets to start with. He did a 69 Camaro that he paid $6K for the shell and the front body, around the subframes and kick panels almost fell off due to rust. Yo could put your foot thru some of the wholes, not to mention the floors were rotted out and had to be replaced. They bought all new panels and did some work on the front but they never really showed how the front rust issues were dealt with. So it makes me wonder if the hidden rust was actually dealt with or if it was just covered up and painted over. And does the new owner, who got the car at auction, get a copy of the video of them rebuilding it after it is aired on TV? jm2cw Dave