LanceM

I'm putting what I was told were Datsun Euro 240 springs on my 240. I can't tell you much about the fronts as they are already on the car but I have a rear here, Free lenght 14" about 9 1/2 coils wire dia. .460" part # 55020-E4201 Right ft 9 1/2 coils .460" wire part # 55020-E4106 Left Ft 9 1/2 coils .460" wire Part # 55020-E4107 They are suppose to lower the car 1" and are a higher rate spring. I guess I'll find out next spring For compairison my old stock springs off the front were 10 coils, .430" wire.

Timing is a funny thing. With the timing too advanced static you can have cold start problems and low speed problems, though yes it seems to give you the best power warmed up and running. Since your engine is mostly stock my recommendation is to do it how we did it in the old days, lug it like you are doing in 4th gear and keep reducing the timing until the pinging stops, pinging is bad. Now if you have problems cold starting or low speed continue backing it off until you have the best of both worlds. One of the things to remember now that these cars are older is that the springs in the distributor are tired and the weights may be worn. This will change the curve of the distributor, the amount of advance to rpm. In a perfect world there is a perfect advance, giving you spark at the right time to make the most power at that particular rpm. When things get tired you get too much advance to soon causing pinging in the midrange until the engine rpm catch up to the spark advance. Remember that every ping is a little chunk blown out of the top of your piston, like I said not a good thing... So by setting it so you don't have a ping through out the rpm range you know that you are not exceeding the advance curve no matter what your static setting is and hopefully getting the most power available from you advance curve. Clear as mud right Oh and to get higher timing marks, put a timing tape on your dampner and use the zero mark on the case as the reference point. I don't know any more who or if anyone has them anymore but once again that's how we did it in the old days It just divides the dampner into 360 degree marks using the TDC mark as the zero point. Ah if it was just 30 years ago and I still had my 454 Monte Carlo SS I'd show you Boy am I glad I'm not buying gas for that today!

Sounds like a place to give return business to. So often anymore the job is done when you drive out the door instead of when you are satisfied.

Since it was done in a shop I'd take it back! Sort of sounds like a short in the wiring causing a full load on the system since in theory all current runs through the ampmeter. Could be just a bad connection or a bad VR but since someone else did it I'd keep showing up at their doorstep with a smile until it was fixed right.

Closing the warm air intake won't hurt. It's a polution thing, cars before the '70s didn't have it. Ram air sounds neat but requires proper ducting and is only effective above 100 mph. Cost to gain ratio makes it unpractial for the street. The money is better spent in increasing hp in other ways.

Hi Brian, The stock electric fuel pump is mounted to the chassie in front of the fuel tank on the passengers side. If I remember correctly the electric fuel pump only runs after the engine reaches 600 rpm or so. This is a safety feature so if in an accident the fuel line ruptures and the engine is stopped the pump won't empty the fuel tank just because the key is on.

No sorry I don't, it was about 20 years ago when I did it. I do remember picking them up at the local parts place, at the time I was one of the few in the area that ever wanted any metric fasteners

If I remember right I used one of those $10 universal steering wheel pullers, I just had to buy some long bolts with the right thread to bolt into the pully to pull it.

The average seems to be around $700 give or take(full set up, manifold, linkage, carbs, aircleaners). Depends some on what kind of shape they are in, costs around $30 a piece for the rebuild kit. K&N aircleaners are around $50 a piece. Figure it would cost $1300 + or - some to buy everything you need new and go from there.

Looking at mine I would say that the pin was a press fit, in other words it was never ment to be removed. Given that and the age of the car it is probably rusted in place. I would go with your option of threading it, drill and tap the pin out, that would save a lot of pounding

The other day I got my 240 out and drove it up to the house to do some power washing on it, (just running after 15 years of storage), it ran fine and I put it back in the shop. Last nite I wanted to fiddle with the carbs and went to start it when it went Klack klack klack with every turn of the engine and I mean it was a real LOUD KLACK! Needless to say the start was aborted and the cause of this sound was looked for. Found it under the valve cover! one of the rockers had come off and was getting beaten by the cam and other moving componets!!! Oil spray tube bent, spring cap dinged up but luckly that's about it. I was able to straighten the spray tube and put things back together. Needless to say I checked the valves, several rockers were about to fall off! and a couple were way too tight! The funny part was that there was little if any valve train noise when it was running... Moral of the story, just because it was running when you put it away 15 years ago, and started and ran fine 15 years later, you should check all of the adjustments even though you aren't going to be driving it for 6 months..... sort of one of those pay me now or spend more later things

I'd say the VR is shot. I don't remember for sure but I think if you unplug the VR there is no output from the altenator, so the steady voltage you are seeing is the battery voltage.

Close but no cigar!! Well Don, you're making it tougher Since the head is rebuilt that can pretty much be eliminated. Seems strange that it's only at hi r's, if it was rings I would expect it all of the time. You can try an engine wash, I have no experiance with them so don't know if they really work. If you try it and it doesn't help I would probably switch back to regular oil. Eventhough you are not burning that much I wouldn't want to be adding that carbon to the combustion chamber along with the added plug fouling.

48, in northern Indiana, wife, 2 boys, one almost driving age along with the usual and some unusual country pets. ' 73 240, no where near stock, a project started before I had a wife and has finally moved to the front burner after 15 years of sitting. Hopefully this spring she will be my daily driver, making my 40 mile comute to the "city" on what is considered the worst highway in the area a total driving pleasure, 40 miles of curves and 300' long or less passing lanes. Now if I could just get everyone else to leave either 15 minutes before or after I do it would be great

Man I hate it when that happens! But since you were hit their insurance is buying right? Or is CA a no fault state however that stuff works???

Here's my guess... Since it is low miles, but has age against it I would guess you are sucking oil past the valve guide seals since synthetic is a lot slipperier and only 5 weight. That and the fact that it only happens above 4.5K, there's a lot more oil on top then than at lower r's. I'd install new valve guide seals and try again, cheap fix and it wouldn't hurt.

Should work fine.

My nearest largest city is Ft. Wayne, IN

Black interior, manual trans.

Ohhhh I hate it when that happens !!

I would say yes to using a punch and driving it out(probably best if you can drive it out from the bottom up just in case it is a tapered hole, it's always best to drive out pins the way they went in). If you thread it get a proper sized shoulder bolt so the bearing has something to ride on besides threads or else they will eat up the bearing (the roller thing) in short order.

I've been looking at options, I've been thinking of grinding and filling then a light glass coat and painting. I'm not getting her out till spring so I have time to weigh my options. I was thinking that filling it might last along time as long as it isn't hit, and with an early Z bumper, getting hit usually distroyed it anyway....

I don't know the weight of the 280 2+2 but I like the performance that an aluminum flywheel has added to my car. You will loose some off the line launch but once you're in the R's it cranks! I remember being told long ago that every pound off of the flywheel is like 10 pounds off of the cars weight performance wise.

Well if a 72 will fit I might just go that route, I was under the impression that only thing that would fit a 73 is 73. If I can easily retrofit a 72 than that will probably be a lot less work. Thanks, It's been a month and I'm still waiting for my MSA catalog....

The amp rating if for the amount of current the contacts can carry. For a relay or solinoid bigger is better. If you use a 40 amp in a 10 amp circuit the contacts should last for ever, where if you used a 5 amp the contacts would burn out.