Shiin

I totally forgot that I'm one of the 8 to pre-order. It's been so long, I forgot all about them.

There are a lot of companies that make the H4 conversion out there, but the problem is if you want to meet legal requirments. Companies such as autopal make headlight that meet european requirement as well as DOT. I have the autopal H4 conversion in and they go in fine using the stock components to the headlight assembly. I argee with using another bulb such as the Narva bulb. I have some laser white lights that I picked up at a local turners shop that are 60/55W and are slightly brighter then the 100/90W sealed beams. If you do choice a bulb that is higher then the 60/55W you will have to upgrade the wiring to the light to prevent electrical failure. This would require 2 automotive relays and a waterproof fuse w/case as well as heavier guage wire. keep in mind that the stock lights to the Zed is 7" or 178mm.

First of all welcome to the forum. Next you can choose may different z's, since most of the parts are interchangeable, you have a great deal of mods to choose from. In some ways people choose a 73 or younger in the US to avoid the hassel of smogging it. Check your local laws for smogging requirements. If you choose to use it on the street make sure it can pass smog, or there are ways around it, some illegal. The Z's can be up graded with almost any Z or ZX motor out there and still be smog legal. The flaw that the 73 240z has is the carbs. the Carbs(flat tops) seem to have more problem and are said to be power robbers. Most people switch thoughs over with 72 or younger cars(round tops). Goods and bads go with the car. I have a 73 and really don't no what all the fuss is with the carbs, but I'm no too picking since I'm in the process of a 280zx turbo motor swap. Hot engines are really up in arms. some people say go for a v8 swap, some say efi, others go turbo, use 70-72 carbs and do a build up of the motor, or stay stock. the choice is yours. V8 have alot of power potential and very simple but costly to install. however you will be offseting the weight distribution putting more wieght on the front. EFI is for a newer updated version and in my opinion is more consistant and also trouble some(only an opinion). Turbo is fun but power is made more or less after 3000rpms (if you're use to power spike from a turbo then you'll be fine, but some time the tail can get away from you) Using the 70-72(round top) carbs can have great benifits staying stock won't give you many differences in HP, but great for restorations. With the Z cars the options are almost endless because you can pick and choose parts from other Z cars that work great and use them with less effort and fairly easy modding. If you have a 73 240z use it. If you want a 280z motor it will easily fit and you can bore thoughs motors out to about 3.1 liters instead of 2.8. Honest opintion is to read up see what people view are with different set-up and find out how well they run. I though I was just doing to do a motor build up, but when I found out you can do so much or I freaked out. A lot of companies and online shops carry parts for Z and a lot of different set-up on a Z-car have been done. So now it's up to you to find what your into.

Actually per-productions are given a different VIN# not beginning with the correct number. For example the new 350Z located at Tracy Nissan has the VIN#1000177(I think, But im sure it ends with 10001XX) Per-production models are labeled with the last 6 of the VIN with a number higher then the one production. Also the long numers on a vin each stand for something like the begining VIN on a Nissan that goes "JN3BC" example of a maxima Lettering code:J= where it's made "Japan" N= Make "Nissan 3= year "2003" B+C= model type "GXE or GX" I a Nissan parts book it statest the first 1 in "10001XX" is the beginning of the production make. This might clear up why the 00001 will not be right hand drive

And left it's mark. 350z's are shipping out to dealerships near you. I was lucky enough to sit along side a Nissan Mechanic when he when he took the car for a test drive and a gas fill. Needless to say the car runs as great as it looks. The model in question was a 350z performance model with 287hp with 274 lbs feet of torque and Silver

I know a guy that's got a 76 280z tank on a 240z and one of the things he had to do was get bigger straps to hold the tank up, so I'm pretty sure it will work with minor moding.

As for me I too plan to use a on/off toggle witch that doesn't lock into one position to another, but a momentary toggle for safety reasons. I was also plan on using an aircraft switch cover. Does anyone know where I could pick one up at or do I have to order it from painless wiring. This is what the switch looks like:

Are you planning to connect it from the back of the ingnition switch or jump it right from the battery. I with I could remember what guy I talked to because he told me what wires to splice into to. Is the ingnition switch bad like you can't turn the key when in the ignition or it won't start when you turn pass the ON position on the switch. That would make a difference in using a key to arm it or do you want to run a constant power. I may be able to help located which wires to splice into because I plan to do the same thing.

Finally pre-ordered mine. Was just waiting for them to post the Z on there site. I forgot to check there site in the past weeks. My brothers guages took like 4-5 month from pre-order to delivery to get his guages.

The only thing that I have seen different on a wiring diagram for a 73 240z and a generic 240z wiring diagram is the INT' RELAY pictured in the diagrams. I don't know if that is your problem. it would help if you had a picture of it or you know the color of the wires that go into it so you can trace back the wires on a diagram. I posted a pic of the diagram on another post: http://www.240z.org/forums/showthread.php?threadid=2971 it located in the middle of the bottom part of the pic.

WARNING the image is 1280 X 960. Might be slow loading so please be patient. Don't know how well this pic is but it's a wiring diagram from a 73 datsun 240z manual transmission. From what I know the 73 is not that much different from the others, just make sure you have the right colored wires. Picture is kinda blurry on the outside edges but let me know if you can see it.

One of the problems with the gauges were that we though the flames were going to be ghost images that were barely see when lit up, but that wasn't the case. The flames happen to stick out a lot more then was expected. I'm still willing to order these gauges though. All I need is a working clock to put back into my dash:stupid:

The Guages aren't bad after you get them. My brother got his for his supra and this is what it looks like Simple to set up. One of the concerns I had was how they would they link the gauges together, but after seeing them up close they link to one another by wires instead of one full overlay peice like the honda's are.

Man I would have gone to that if I knew that it was this weekend! I thought it was going to be all fully resortered original cars there and no hybrid Z.

I tried using carfax also and got the same result. I thought you can only check cars that are 1981+ on carfax. As far as records go I though the DMV would have info on older cars, but then again doesn't carfax pull records from the DMV database:confused: