Yarb

240sx rear calipers work with the bracket from ZCD. Have to go back and look but I matched them up with 300zx rotors

Is the wheel hitting the fins on the caliper? In so you can grind them down. Sounds like it might be worse than that.

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@Mark Maras Hey friend would it be easier to disconnect the speedometer housing from the transmission, slide the cable out, inspect, and add some lithium grease and give that a shot first? Wanted to get you’re thoughts on that.

That is a waist of money. Plus shipping.

This post is over 2 years old.

They ate like $9 each on Amazon. Comes with the boot

Sounds like the old school factory bakelite plastic where you push the clip in from the side. If that is the case trouble is imminent due to vibration. That little seal is for moisture.

My mistake I thought everything was changed out to LED bulbs. With the harness/switch issues a lot of folks are experiencing.

How about a cheap fix if it indeed fixes the problem with minimal time and labor involved, Try the three prong flasher and run the seperate ground wire.

Where did you find these washers?

Do We dare ask what Treasure’s you have upstairs? 😊

1/78 280. Both of mine point forward where if you are looking at each side the tie rod width wise is pretty much half and half. In other words you can see half the ball. Looking at the dust shield for the rotor.

I used Moog on both of mine new rack as well. Are you sure the rack is centered as far as number of wheel turns on each side.

Wix 3003 3/8 fuel filter is clear. Fram used to be but not anymore.

As I suggested, place both supply and return lines in your 2 gallon tank. You won’t run out of gas until the engine has burned the 2 gallons.

@terrapinz

Is this the same tube that came from the block. Looks like it’s been cleaned and painted

The pipe is tapered. It’s a booger getting it out after all these years. @jfa.series1 suggests, grab a rubber hammer and drive it in.

Have you replaced the fuel pump? If so tell us about what you installed.

The steps I’m recommending worked for me personally. I was in the same boat. Car sitting for a very very long time.

First test IMO should be to isolate the tank as suggested earlier by disconnecting supply and return lines. Supply line to pump 3/8. Return line 5/16. Drop them in a 5 gallon can. Start the engine. One variable eliminated.

Why do you need to continue adding oil?

@Patcon is dead on here. The entire system is antiquated. Funny as I was fighting your battle with my 78 I ran across the same issues. @Dave WM a friend close to me and helped tremendously getting my engine running to spec said “if it’s idling fine and you loosen the oil cap or remove the dipstick and it becomes rough and wants to die, chances are you do not have any vacuum leaks.

Remove both the hoses and extend them with barbed fittings available at ace hdw. Otherwise you have to keep filling the tank and you can monitor the fuel coming back.