26th-Z

See how the assembly line snakes around? In the background you can see body shells going the other way? As this line snakes its way through the building, certain sub-assembly "feeder" lines come into this main line with sub-assemblies (like the dash). The guy driving the car off the line in the last picture is Mr. Ok.

Here are some pictures of how the bodies were fabricated out of sheet metal stampings. See the stitch welding over the tunnel? At some point, the floor sub-assembly was placed on a jig and welded to the firewall and front frame assembly.

Sounds like a good time to post some pictures! These were collected from scans of Nissan "Shatai" brochures which I believe to be publications Nissan put out to stock holders and corporate people about Nissan production capabilities and their manufacturing facilities. Alan, you are certainly welcome to chime in on this. I have a couple of these brochures from the 70's time period. Arne mentioned that he couldn't visualize the manufacturing process and Ron is discussing things that make a lot of sense when you get the idea of how the cars were built. We all understand the concept of the production "line". What Ron describes are the various "lines" that feed into the main assembly line and all the people involved at various assembly points along the "line". The first picture is from 1959 showing what a manufacturing assembly would have looked like. Then a number of S30 assembly line pictures. The welding picture isn't S30. That's the machine that made all those spot welds though.

Hey MidLife! Your vent hose is broken and you pretty much have to drop the gas tank to replace it. The Evap stuff is behind the quarter panel over the passenger shock tower. When you drop your gas tank, look for manufacturer markings on the top of the tank. You may find something interesting. I can't believe there isn't a fuel system diagram posted in the archives. This problem has been discussed a million times. Very common problem. So how's Wisconsin? I grew up in Mequon. Go Packers.

Oh my, yes it was! As you may recall, the American thing was to stuff a big V-8 into a small British car...

I was thinking of the late 50's early 60's when I answered, but what did America build as a sports / road car? Alan, have you ever driven a Corvette? Appalling.

Seth, No. He was NOT significantly responsible. Here are some photos of what was being produced in the Nissan design department in 1966. The bottom photo is concept AC-1 which went to full scale mock-up along with other concepts in 1967. One of those concepts had pop-up headlights and another was a targa top configuration. Nissan had experienced some success by marketing their roadster sports cars in America and the corporation was interested with increasing their exports to America and replacing their aging design. In addition, American law was demanding significant roll-over cash protection which devistated the open top roadster concept. Mr. Katayama had established a very solid market and dealer network program in America. He was certainly influencial by his marketing reports and suggestions, but Nissan was clearly headed for the export market with their new sports car design. If one would hail Mr. Katayama, one would appreciate his work marketing the Datsun brand in America. He is most noted for introducing the concept of the small pick-up truck to America. Mr. Katayama was indeed a sports car fan and credit goes to him for providing the cars to various racing enterprises. (Brock, Sharp) But put the guy on the proper pedestal for cryin out loud! He was a marketing man. He took something he thought he could sell and made a success out of it because he had the dealer network and reputation already established.

I always loved this conversation. Search back through the archives and there are plenty more threads on this subject. Thanks, as always, Alan for providing your insight.

Corvette and Thunderbird

Carl, I happen to subscribe to "Old Cars", have for years, and it has nothing to do with Kruse the auctioneers. It's KRAUSE, not Kruse. I'm lead to suspect you have nipped something off the internet without understanding it. I notice that your definitions are abridged; on you site as well as in these threads. How about if we use the unabridged definitions. Always. Wouldn't you imagine less confusion from that manner? Certainly your opinion is appreciated. However, modified cars are most certainly part of the collector market and the guidelines are written specifically if you understand the grammar and punctuation. #1 Excellent: A close to perfect original or a very well restored vehicle. Generally a body-off restoration, but a well done body-on restoration that has been fully detailed may qualify. The vehicle is stunning to look at and any flaws are trivial and not readily apparent. Everything works as new. All equipment is original, NOS, or excellent quality reproductions. Note: This is NOT a 100 point trailered show car. See show car description in How to Use section. #2 Very Good: An extremely presentable vehicle showing minimal wear, or a well restored vehicle. Runs and drives smooth and tight. Needs no mechanical or cosmetic work. All areas (chassis not required, but may be) have been fully detailed. Beautiful to look at but clearly below a #1 vehicle. #3 Good: Presentable inside and out with some signs of wear. Not detailed but very clean. Body should be straight and solid with no apparent rust and absolutely no rust-through anywhere. Shiny, attractive paint but may have evidence of minor fading or checking or other imperfections. Runs and drives well. May need some minor mechanical or cosmetic work but is fully usable and enjoyable as is. #4 Fair: runs and drives OK but needs work throughout the vehicle. Body shows signs of wear or previous restoration work. Any rust should be minimal and not in any structural areas. Cosmetics, body, and mechanics all need work to some degree. #5 Poor: In need of complete restoration, but is complete and not a rust bucket beyond repair. May or may not run and drive. Not roadworthy. Parts or Salvage: Incomplete vehicle most useful for parts. Generally, take 40-50% of the #5 value. ANd just for grins, whenever I see a discussion of the 240Z in a "collector" oriented publication, I always see this picture to describe the original 240Z. Talk about ironic!

Well...then I guess there are more than 46 of them out there. So much for the value of mine!

Here are but a few number one cars to show. I have plenty more examples. It would be pretty hard to dispute them. Certainly, Carl's example is a number one. The guy's whole collection is nothing short of number one examples. I don't understand the hesitation. Perhaps your "standard" is a little over the top, Carl. The whole 1, 2, 3, 4 thing is a basic standard for evaluation. It does not encompass "how it left the factory", "all original unrestored", yadda- yadda. Those standards are superimposed and have nothing to do the values published in the magazine. I don't necessarily agree with the values in the magazine, but there they were. Incidently, the red car is the most awarded Z in America. I am not aware of any other Z in the world that has won more top honors than that one. The orange car is the Franklin Mint car.

Here is some information that might help to answer the original question and perhaps throw some fuel on the fire: According to the August 2008 issue of "Collector Car Market Review" a 1970 - 1973 HLS30 is worth #4 condition - $2,050 #3 condition - $5,175 #2 condition - $8,525 #1 condition - $13,100 Add 5% for air conditioning and subtract 15% for automatic transmission A 1974 260Z is listed as $1,800, $4,500, $7500, and $11,125 respectively condition 4 to 1. The same percentages are given for A/C and auto trans. Incidently, the magazine reports that muscle car prices are off about 20% over the last two years and that gains for imports like ours have experienced 4% to 7% over the same period.

A #1 or #2 example car WOULD have perfect paint, wouldn't it? If it didn't, it wouldn't be a #1 or #2 quality example. Poindexter, just have your problem areas repaired. A good painter can match your repair areas so that no one will be able to notice. And don't worry about the judging thing.

As I recall, the kid won first in Stock. I don't remember the car we are discussing. Evidently, I was so impressed that I didn't take a picture of it. In this picture, the yellow car in front is the kid's. The red car behind it is Ed's from this site. He took first in Street Modified. And the silver car in back took the Gold Cup.

This photograph is definitely from the North American testing program.

"Groovy" was used until 1973, Carl.

Got mine in the mail today. Nice article Carl. Congrats. And for those of you who subscribe to AutoWeek, the 50th Anniversary issue is out listing the 240Z and Yutaka Katayama in their "most significant" article. The picture they use of the 240Z is Mr. K's yellow car with the ZG nose. Something to smile about: think of the most significant automobiles and people in the automotive world in the last 50 years. We keep good company.

The factory service manuals have measurements also. Support the car and level it as best you can on the rocker jacking points and the mustache bar mounting points. Bolt the transmission mount crossbar into the tunnel to keep it straight. I bolted up the sway bar to begin aligning the frame rail and from there, I took measurements.

I am able to speak highly of the car and the seller also.

Patz, The US version S30 / 240Z came with a 2.4 liter L24 engine. Head and valve specs varied between 1970 and 1973 as you may know. The Japanese S30 came with L20 engines until the introduction of the HS30 and HS30S in October 1971 which came with the L24 engine. Known as the Fairlady 240Z and 240Z-L, the cars were very similar and I suspect the specs for valve and cam were the same as the HLS30 in the U.S. There are casting identification numbers on the heads just above cylinder #1 which should identify and confirm compatability. For instance, my 1969 produced cars came with the E-31 head. Depending on which head you have, I would imagine the cam and valve specs to be the same.

Yes. aircraft latch buckle for me.

I think these would be the belts you are talking about? The long straps in the center have that "curious rivet" on the end and the belts over on the right show the buckle with the notch that the rivet goes into. Yea? I could sell this set, BTW. Early push-button type.

Reading through some of the early Datsun literature, service manuals, owners manuals, etc., you will find reference to leather or leatherette upholstery. This is a translation issue and not meant to indicate real cow. The vinyl upholstery is simulated leather. The original designs called for leather but vinyl was used for durability and cost reasons. Datsun (Nissan) made a serious attempt to simulate leather and did a pretty good job of it. That's why there is the confusion and mis-identification.

I'm assuming you are talking about the convention? The "poker run" event is very well defined and explained in the "How to put on a national convention" book you should have from the ZCCA. I'm sure you are getting people who want to go fast and race around. Nothing unique about that. Technically, a "poker run" is a described course that includes a number of stops to obtain a playing card. Best poker hand at the finish wins. Thus...Poker Run