26th-Z

Alan makes a good point about various finishes applied to various parts. For instance, primer used to cover replacement parts is different from the primer used on the car. Parts applied on the assembly line were indeed different in many cases from the replacement parts ordered separately. I followed a conversation on IZCC about the color of the tail lights. I have discovered a few "early" parts for which there is no reference! Applied on the early assembly line and subsiquently dropped from production. Certain authorities claim the piece is aftermarket when I know well it is from the factory. In many cases, the original part design was changed when the first production lot was completed and a second lot was ordered. Screws changed, Plastic color changed. The first ash trays were grey plastic painted black. All the rest are black plastic, for example. My point is that there are many subtle part differences and that there is no technical "correct". I think it is one of the many aspects of enjoying Z's. I think it would be a shame to discredit a car represented as original because some aspect doesn't match another car. We nit and pick, but it is fun for us. My car came without a fuel vapor recovery system. The gas tank is different and the plumbing is missing. The cable used to pull the wiring harness over the wheel well was left in the car. My correct is different from your correct! I hope we continue to have conversations like this one. I never would have guessed the splash pan came other than glosss black.

Check this car out; http://www.zcar.com/classifieds/index.php?method=showdetails&list=advertisement&rollid=6147&fromfromlist=classifiedscategory&fromfrommethod=showhtmllist&fromfromid=29&

That's exactly what you are looking for. At the price, it will probably last long enough to do your car. I think we are talking about two things, though. How to get the rust off and what to do when you get the rust off. For certain, the cleaned piece will surface rust within months. I think this method is ideal for body bolts and other fasteners that will be paint finished. You could always clear coat the exposed end once it is in place. But short of plating, the fastener is going to rust. If you are going to plate the hardware, there is no point getting the tumbler.

It's a fine thread and typical for many bolts on the Z. Make sure to tap out that paint before you cram the bumper bolt into it! :classic:

Oh, by all means. Tape up the holes before you weld:classic: and tell us what happens

The car you describe, Zep, is what I call a "basket case" because all the parts come in a basket! I went out to find this example of what I have dealt with many times. http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/lotus/1055121110/1055121110pp.htm When you look at a basket case, be aware that no matter how complete it all looks, parts will be missing. Many, many nuts and bolts will be missing. Without some sort of record of how the car came apart, you will never be sure how well it will go back together. The computer list you describe is nice, but don't kid yourself into thinking there won't be problems. Obviously, the car came apart for some significant reason and you can bet that the process of disassembling the car damaged some things. This is a restoration / reconstruction project - very long term and costly. So costly, that it is easily half as cheap to buy an assembled car in poor condition. Taking the car apart decreased it's value by 75% to the point that it is now far more valuable as parts - chassis included. Datsun Z's, on the grand scale of things, are pretty easy cars to work on and assemble. There is one hell of a lot of documentation available to help assemble a completely dismanteled car. And get it running. A Z would make a great candidate for a learning car. With the right frame of mind, one could find great rewards from such an immense project. I don't blame you for passing on this one. Just thought I would share some personal experiences.

Yea, I have never seen one - picture please?

Gloss black enamel - same as the cross member and suspension.

I use a product called "OSPHO" by The Skybryte Company. It is a solution of phosphoric acid used by painters to prepare rusted metal surfaces for painting. I soak all kinds of rusted stuff in the solution or just spray it on the metal. Over time, it will take the rust off. You can paint over it after it dries and Home Depot sells it. I'm surprised you guys don't talk about this stuff. I soaked some metal I picked up on Omaha Beach that was all encrusted in sea rust and coral growth. After two days, it was bright shiny steel. I have soaked cannon balls and nails from sunken wooden sailing ships with the same results. Simply spraying OSPHO on metal turns it black with a white residue. OSPHO is water soluable. OSPHO is nasty stuff, but I would soak my nuts and bolts in it before I would use a rock tumbler.

It's either 4 or 6 mm ID, Carl. You can tell by the size of the nipple. One is small and the other is large. I can't remember between the two, but the fuel pump takes the larger 6mm.

Carl is very correct about the way Z's were marketed and the vinyl along with side moldings came "extra" for the "luxury model". I think it would be very appropriate and period correct to cover the top in vinyl and add moldings. I am also in favor of other aftermarket items such as Amco chrome and interior parts. It's all part of the Z lore in my opinion.

I have been pretty lucky and my income has remained steady. I'm not saving much at the moment - spending it on the Z.

The car has 200,000 miles on it. No question in my mind. The front bumper uprights are missing. Too bad there are only two pictures. I would imagine this car car to be completely clapped out and if there isn't much rust to deal with, would be 50/50 parts car or restoration project. The narrative spends more time talking about the car's history than a description of the car. I would look at the car before I spent much on it. It may be "all there", but I'll bet most of it needs to be replaced.

Your seats look great - by the way. I save a couple of pictures for my reference.

Kats, I had those plastic covers in a box that came with my car. I never knew what they were. Thanks! I would love to get a new set. I will look at the other early cars to see if they have them the next time I go visit.

I have no idea what year the eBay jute is from. The jute in my car is missing and I have been looking at older cars to determine the pattern myself! I think you have the rear floor jute correct, Kats. Your front floor jute looks slightly different from the eBay picture. That jute appears to bend up the sides. ? I know of several early cars in original condition and I was planning to copy their pattern, but I am not at that point with my restoration and the cars are hours from me involving a full day trip. I will post a pattern drawing in the future. All the old jute I have seen is dark brown and I do not have a source for the material other than grey at the moment. I think the lighter brown is fine and it will darken with age and heat. Thanks for the pictures, kats. I copied all of them for my reference. I sent you a PM. Oh, I have a black rubber strap with metal rings on each end to hold the jack in place. My strap is broken. I would love a new one.

And this

I copied this off an eBay auction Kats.

Make sure you eat enough vegetables or all that rice will make you funny in the head. If you think that wing makes the car fast look at how the doors got blown off! ROFL

Spray paint white and wash the car with Comet or Soft Scrub and soon the paint will be smooth and even and lovely. Touch up bare spots with more white. Rattle cans work best for the 50/50 rule.

Welcome to mid life! Now you can do just about anything, but you know more about it!!! At the bottom of the "POST REPLY" window is a highlighted "attach file:" box with a browse button. Hit browse and find your picture or address and insert it there. File size is limited so beware of how large the image size is and adjust it accordingly. Good luck finding a new Zed to play with. I'm taking mine all apart.

I found this cable in my car and wonder what it is. The cable goes over the top of the passenger wheel arch and down into the dog leg. That end is just the cut end of the cable, but finished so that it won't fray. The eye loop is woven ito the cable. Was this used to pull the wiring harness over the wheel arch? Anyone seen one of these?

Alan, Do you find that color "anthracite" to be consistant with all the accessory trim on the car? Hubcaps, tail light valance, grill?

The U-joint casting will have a grease nipple if it is meant to be serviced. Check each joint in the drive and half shafts and you should see a small grease nipple from the + piece between the shaft yokes. Clean it off and use a common grease gun to apply grease, rotating the shaft to get the best clearance on the nipple. I'm sure we could get into a rauchous converstation about what kind of grease to use, but any common suspension grease will do. Once filled, the grease will start coming out of the four ends of the u-joint. Wipe it all down nice and clean or the grease will spin off and on to your car. If you don't find a grease fitting, it could be missing; look for a hole, the u-joint was not meant to be serviced. I have used both types and can't report any longevity difference. I seem to go through half shafts so often, I bought a spare set of shafts. You will notice the joints going bad by clicking from the axle shafts when you start out in first gear. Very, very slowly let out the clutch with no throttle until the car just begins to roll. You will hear perhaps a series of clicks as each u-joint reacts to the torque. Loud, noticable clicks are bad and mean the joint needs to be replaced.

Just read a thread on IZCC and thought I would pass it along. Recommends http://wheeltechniques.com/ and warns against Wheels America He had a Momo wheel done.