26th-Z

The event is really coming together, Gus! A lot of e-mail enthusiasm is circulating around the Suncoast Club. I hear the guys in Maryland have been talking about it. For all those planning to come down for some Florida sunshine (pray for good weather), our nights get quite cool even though it is wise to wear sunscreen during the day. This time of year can also be quite breezy. The very first bit of spring is here. The orange trees are starting to blossom! Woo Hoo!

I read the top few threads. Spindle pin removal 101, huh? Sure the emissions can come off! Get some nifty little brass cap nuts to plug up the exhaust mainfold. Do the same with some good looking hardware for the intake manifold. I like to use a sealer on the nuts to make sure everything is air tight. With the lack of air delivery now, the car will need a tune-up. You will have to tune the carbs.

Chris, Read what you are saying. The car runs better when you plug up the hole, but the tube was disconnected to make the car run better? Nonsense! Your car is running shitty because you have a leak from the unplugged hose. The emissions hardware can be removed. You have to keep the vacumn advance on the distributer and plug the rest of the holes with perminent plugs / bolts...etc. You will have to adjust the timing and the carbs.

Yes, the add is written horribly. Since when is a rebuilt engine and 125,000 miles considered low? Absolutely just like showroom condition? Absolutely! Meticulously maintained, but it needs maintenance? Pretty car. Too bad it has been crashed. And the DNF license plate has to be too funny! Did Not Finish?

I suspect many people are doing just that, Mike. Kind of a shame, but over the past year, I have seen a lot of stuff dry up. Scares the hell out of me, frankly. Looking at what it is going to cost me to restore 27.

I don't know what the guy is bitching about. I like mine plain, too.

Do a right-clik and "save target as" to down-load the .wmv file and play it through Explorer? Can't help you on the Mac, Ben. They are .wmv files. Great stuff Kats! Car washes have changed a bit from those days! I loved spinning donuts in the parking lot! Where was the scene with the mountain map? I was sixteen when this was going on.

Thanks for the kind remarks, Steve. I am still collecting information about the Z Restoration Program and will be writing more soon.

See you at Hooters, Vicky and Scott. Save the good stuff for me!

Thanks Alan, yes. Have you corresponded with him?

I am a little curious about this myself. Every one I have seen was on the back lip of the rear spoiler. HS30-H has one on his spoiler. I recall a thread some time ago about emblems on the rear deck and a scan was posted of the emblem page from a RHD parts catalog. but I can't find it. According to the gentleman who sold this emblem to me, it may have come from HS30-00026.

In Florida, it is quite common to see a drug-bust confiscated sports car or boat in police colors. The sight always brings a smile to my face. This thread has done the same and I want to thank everyone for a very interesting off-topic discussion and the photographs. Thanks for the smiles

Hi Kats! Jim and I agree. The bolt is on top. The nut is on the bottom. 26th has the clip attached to the valance panel. Here is a clip from the parts manual - page 75

Now you have me standing on my head looking at the picture!

I assure everyone that the grill is for the Japanese Domestic S30, S30-S, PS30, and PS30-SB. Meaning 240Z. HS30-H observes that the mesh pattern is finer for the PS30, however this could simply be a difference in manufacture. None-the-less, the contention that the grill is for the 260 / 280 is incorrect.

Hi Kats! I sent your picture to Jim so that he may view his cars. I will look at mine also and reply, but it may take me some time.

Can hardly wait! Congrats, Ron. It must give you smiles to see a publication after all your hard work.

I couldn't get over to look at it. It sounds like the seller got tired of answering the same questions and took an offer yesterday.

I thought you were the guy who asked if it could be driven to NC

Another logo from the '60s. A logo from the '70s, a lighted dealer sign from the '70s, and I think that just about does my collection.

Ok, I found some more. From left to right: DAT circa 1916, (2) DAT Cars circa 1920 (this is the logo I use), DATSON circa 1931, Datsun logo from the '60s.

And a couple more

Hey Gav! I collected these pictures of Datsun emblems from eBay for you. Several different font styles.

There should be no reason to take the engine apart. Take the spark plugs out, squirt some 3-in-one oil in each cylinder, and hand turn the engine over a few times. Once you get power in the car, crank the engine on the starter motor until the gauge shows oil pressure. The engine should be fine. Put new spark plugs back in, wires, points, condenser, and distributor cap. Drain all the fluids. The gas tank probably needs to be cleaned. Have fun and be careful with the old vent hoses. If they crack, replace them. If not, wipe them down with a good rubber treatment (no silicone). The carbs probably need to be cleaned and or rebuilt. All of that can be done with them still on the car. Get the video from Ztherapy and read up on carb cleaning. Replace all the rubber fuel lines with new and install a new fuel filter. Replace all the rubber brake lines and the clutch line with new. Bleed out all the hydraulic fluid and flush the system. If you are lucky the master and slave cylinders will not have to be rebuilt, but be careful. The rubber O-rings in the cylinders could be bad and / or the cylinders will need to be honed or replaced. Flush both systems with new fluid before you attempt to bleed them up to working order. Old hydraulic fluid will be black and new fluid is clear. Make sure all your brake and clutch fluid is clear and not contaminated. Replace all the rubber water hoses with new. Once you get the car running, do a complete cooling system flush. Pressure test the system for leaks. You will be lucky if the radiator still holds pressure. I would take it out and have it serviced if not re-cored. If it is a 2-row radiator, get a new 3-row core. While you are there, replace the water pump. You probably don't need to replace the gear oil in the transmission and differential, but I would. Drain it out and fill it back up with new oil. Replace the tires. That should get you up and running - short of what was wrong with it when it was put away. Be careful with your brakes. There are good rubber dressings to help you with body rubber and vinyl. If the dash isn't cracked, it is very brittle and should be dressed. I don't like any product with silicone. Do some research and buy the good stuff. It will treat you better. Have fun

The Daytona 24 is a different sanction than LeMans these days. The cars you are watching at Daytona will not necessarily appear at LeMans. I think this year's spectacle is staged mostly for the stock car drivers to get some practice for the road racing. It ain't like the good-ol days. Daytona International Speedway has undergone some significant changes this past summer. They cut a new tunnel and the garages have all been redone so that spectators can view the cars without getting in everyone's way. I have had lots of stuff stolen by people walking through the garages and lifting things out of tool boxes etc. Florida has winter in February. Its COLD down here! We used to construct pit shelters from 2x4s and visqueen, but things are much more sophistcated now. I'll tell you it is damned cold standing on the pit wall at 3 in the morning. The best place to watch the race is from the grandstands. It is clean and from way up there you can see most of the entire track. My favorite place is all the way down at the end of the grandstands past turn one.