26th-Z

I know exactly what you meant, Enrique. I was joking about the cig lighter. How many "projects" have I seen over the years turn into a parts gig? Believe it or not, there is a guy in the shop bay right next to mine with a 240Z he was building into a drag car ten years ago. I'm drooling over a 1963 Lotus Elite in boxes up in St. Petersburg. Same story. Thanks for the compliment! JPD, I am conducting a full restoration of a seriously worn out and rusted early car that is sentimental to me. I plan to drive the car for shows and club events. I'm really lucky to have this facility so close. I had to dip the car as she was rusting from the inside out from the salt humidity in Sarasota. My experience with all this takes me back to my SCCA days, with several cars under my belt. I have a vague idea of what I'm doing, however Enrique's scenario is real and fear of that outcome is one of my primary motivations. Chris

You tell 'em, Enrique! The cigarette lighter broke and two years later, look where I'm at!

Z ya there, Ed! I'm so damned excited I can't stand it! We arrive early Monday evening and hope to make the Texas Chili party. Missed it last year. I'm going to do the track tour instead of my wild scheme to "borrow" a demo 350Z from the dealer for a "test drive". I suppose we'll fill up the rental car with the "Florida Gurus Without Cars" and hoot around shouting obscenities.

Hey Ben! We're off to the convention next week. Will be thinking of you. You coming? I'm not going to shave the rear lights. The majority of the car is going back together the same way it came apart and I am not going to destroy the unique character of an early car. In fact, I am remanufacturing several parts that don't exist any more. I'm going for the "Z-L" look but I dare not do anything that can't be easily reversed with a part change. Of course, thats a little on the liberal side of "restoration" but if you call that "hybrid" then everyone is hybrid. You know what trouble I have been into. There are parts out there that I just can't help but put on my car! We're just at the tip of the restoration iceberg at the moment. There are still many, many considerations before I even paint the babe. I still have all the seam sealer to apply and the sound insulation. Long way to go!

Low VINs are are where its at. Everything else is just another Z. If you are going to reference zhome, then reference the collector value in the first 500 Zs. Please! The problem we seem to having here, is that you are asking the choir what they think of this new song by some guy named Mozart. However, some good points have been brought up and I would like to comment. I think anyone will tell you that buying a wreck and restoring it will net financial loss in a big way. If you want a collectable classic with increasing value, buy one in the best shape and don't drive it. The collectable car market is just like collecting art or antiques - larger profits can be easily made elsewhere. Currently, the market for collectable Z cars is increasing. If you enjoy working on cars and want to test your mechanical and restoration mangement skills with the Z restoration crowd, a project Z car is just the thing. There is plenty of help, plenty of cars to look at, and parts - although increasing in price - are still pretty available. As you can see, I am not intimidated by all this. I expect each car will cost me $40,000 to restore and I figure that by the time I am finished, they will be worth that. I will have spent years sweating and bleeding for no profit other than the smile on my face when the two babes are sitting next to each other at a car show. The other thing I have found about Z restoration - especially a low VIN car - is that there is this "silent" opinion that the car should be absolutely stock. And I have this problem. I don't like stock Zs. Furthermore, my restorations will never be stock - they have both been restored. The only thing left of stock on 26th is a pile of photographs! Then, there is all the great stuff you can do to a Z. Just take a look around at what people are doing to their Z cars and how cool it is. So invoke restoration rule #1 (its your car, do what you want to) and enjoy the fact that you have a low VIN and most everyone else doesn't! Here is 27th getting a push just to prove that she acually rolls. I paid $3000 for her delivered. The other picture is nude bare metal 26th last week. I paid $3,500 for her in 1984 and she had a $5,000 body shot in 1990. I drove her daily between 1986 and 1995.

Here is the thread on the subject. I don't know where one can be purchased new. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11768&highlight=vent+grills

I liked the Tokico adjustables, too. 26th used to have urethane bushings also. Very nice stiff ride with my old 6" slots. I will probably put the adjustables back on as well as new urethane bushings. What's the lowering spring of choice, here? Arizona Z?

So let me get this straight....a car with known unique history was "restored" into a replica of another car. How cool ! ! Is this the car? I rode around in it with Les at last year's convention. "comfortable ride and smooth acceleration".

I was having a similar conversation last night. IMO, the standard (read stock) shock is the KYB. Tokicos, Konis, coil-overs, adjustables, etc. all upgrade the standard in performance and price. If you want to autocross well, buy an autocross shock and an autocross spring. If you want to drive on the street without cracking your back, buy the KYBs. I agree with Chris's take on the issue, but be prepared to feel the road. IMO, go with the 2.25" exhaust tubing.

That WAS a good price on eBay. http://www.books4cars.com/search~findmake~Nissan~finddesc~Z.htm This site is a little pricyer http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-form/104-9809308-7799153 I forgot to say that IMO, this is a must-have / must-read book.

And some more including our paddock and staging area and the only shade in the house - the timing and scoring tent.

More pictures

I arrived around 10:30 in the morning after a three-hour drive North from Sarasota. It was a typical Florida summer day - "Africa-hot". By the afternoon though, a slight breeze came up and it wasn't so bad in the shade. Around 40 cars showed up and there was plenty to watch. The Gainesville course is is very open allowing lots of room for mistakes, however most everyone behaved very well and we didn't have any incidents that I know of. The track was built for driving schools and test performance. It is longer than a slalom course yet shorter than a road course. Maximum speeds af 80 or 90 mph can be attained and the corners vary from hairpin sharp to wide open drifting sweepers.

Ouch! ! ! Guus! !

Sounds to me like it passed the test, Mark. Nothing fell off? Made it home all right? No tow truck involved? Time to get it aligned. CW-

Dave, The solution they are using in Wauchula is Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Hydroxide, and Sodium Cyanide. They use copper plate for the annode. The plate covers the entire tank. 26th-Z is back home in Sarasota. We found her a nice air-conditioned body shop for me to grind welds. Just spent the whole afternoon grinding welds. Nicked my fingers a good one or two!

Gotta love those 280s, eh Mike? I thought; "geeze. If you can't figure out how to get the radiator out..." But yea, now that I think about it, the 280 is a total pain in the arse. Just start working your way through it and keep track of your nuts, bolts and screws. Don't just throw them in a pile and figure it out later. Be prepared for the coolant in the engine when you pull the bottom hose. Dousche! I usually pay around $150 to have mine reconditioned with a new core.

No real clear answer to your question. It all depends....I have two different parts books and the CD. The CD is most like the parts book I have that is a print of the micro-fische. There is a lot of information in those books and for me, restoring two old cars, it is all quite helpful. The diagrams are very informative, showing how the car is correctly assembled. Even nut and bolt sizes are shown. The books also help me keep track of the different part iterations and help me determine accuracy for my restoration. You would be surprised what is still available from Nissan. Knowing the part number is crucial. Or for that matter, what the last know retail price was of the part when it was available. (That is good for making parts deals and knowing when you are getting screwed) Then, there is the guru aspect of holding such information. I can't tell you how many discussions I have been in with a certain part in question. What went on what cars stuff. But that's me and what I get out of this sport. If you are going to work on your own car, restore it, or rice it, a parts reference is required. Same goes for a Service manual. Frankly, the seriouser you are about your Z, the more reference info you'll have. But the best reason is, The Club Sells Them! Buy one. You'll be glad you did.

Hi Kats, Yes, I remember the North America Test cars. One had automatic transmission. I was surprised to hear 2nd-Z had one. She must be very serious royalty! All my best to Harigae san. Chris

That is so cool! How much fun did you have? Ha! That is so cool!

Automatic transmission? Brian Long says the automatic transmission wasn't introduced to the S30 until October 1970. I don't know if this would be stamped into the VIN, but if it is an S30S, Long says it wasn't introduced until March of 1971. Wadaya say about that!?!?!! Kats, if you get to see the car and take photos, please show me the welds like these. These differ from later cars. They have a distinct weld nipple in the very center. Compare these welds to a '71 or '72 and you will notice the difference.

Another newbie to the VIN code conversation, Alan! Bemmerguy, We seem to be able to only speculate on what was actually car #1 as all the serial numbers for the various model designations began with -00001. What would have been built at the time would be various models of the S30 chassis intended for various sales markets. The S30 and the S30S designations were for Fairlady Zs in the Japanese market with the standard engine being the L20. The H signifies fitment of the L24 engine (and much later the L28E engine). L signifies left-hand drive. The PS30 was the FairladyZ 432 with the S20 engine. The PS30SB was the FairladyZ 432-R. For example, here is what I have been told by two separate excellent sources as HS30-00026, a right-hand drive L24 engined Datsun 240Z. Same serial number, different car. I liken to imagine that this is Her Majesty's sister the racing warrior.

I think you are correct, jmark. However, there appears to be several different kinds of series I air cleaners. Upon further research, I have my original, a later series I version with an additional fuel line breather hose, and what appears to be an air cleaner for an S20 engine - early. But speaking of distributors.... Here is a picture of my special distributor. A tool made for pumping oil through an engine on the stand. The body has been carved away so that a drill motor can be attached to the shaft and drive the oil pump. Not exactly stock.

Yes. That picture shows the metal hanger a little boogered up, but the idea is there. The plastic washer goes behind the pedal clip. The metal hanger has a captive nut on one side and thus becomes a bolted "squeeze" connection. This picture makes it look like is was pried open with a screwdriver. Texas, that auction was completely crazy. As I recall, the BIN was $350 or something. But the fuse box was new. That counts for something, I suppose. Still, I have been finding used long-tail fuse boxes for $35. Not $350.

Ok, damn-it. You win. That's worse.