Blitzed

Thank you.

Hi All, General question, on speedo gear removal. Can removal and replacement of the speedo gear be done without draining the gear oil? Assume rear end on stands? Need to replace both seals. Thanks.

50 is low here (maybe three days out of the year), went EFI to eliminate the choke and the warm up process. What you've really created is a similar cable cruise control from the Datsun Roadsters. 2000's have a knob that pulls and twist locks on the dash for pedal free cruising on highway. Tried it a few times with Roadster, downside the engine heat can stretch the cable so upon disengagement idle speed off the freeway can be very interesting.

Running a air box for two reason, dirt and mainly heat. What you don't see in this pic is the 4" intake tube is now mounted to back side of the front grill. screen filter in the tube at the radiator brace and a 4" inlet turbo waterproof nylon screen at the front end of the tube (grill) ITB horns are beautiful with chrome screens on the ends and look awesome when the box is off but under hood temps can vastly exceed coolant engine temps. My intake air sensor (mounted at the front end of the box) reads constantly half of the coolant temp. 160 coolant temp, 80 air intake. It's not forced air but the air draw at speed from a 4" tube at the grill is cool and abundant.

Hi Duffy, Do not remove the B/W wire from the connector, splice into the wire using a copper U shaped crimp connector and heat shrink. Leave the connector intact for all other functions. This connection (pink wire) will only power up the ECU when the key is in the on position. Again, I'm safe guarded with the fuse box inline on the harness. Running for a year with this config, no issues, blown fuses and all stock electrical components function. Don't touch your tach, give me a call.

Agree without the Haltech premium wiring harness (safeguard investment). The prem harness runs all ECU connections back through intergraded expandable fuse and relay box (pink ign wire 12v switched and all battery connections included). Not not sure what Duffy has for a harness?

Duffy, Have a 73, so don't want to assume your stock ignition harness is the same wire color combo. Remove ignition switch cover behind the steering wheel and test the 5 pin connector plugged to the back of the ign key switch. Believe it's the B/W wire for 12v switched on (it's been a year and reassembled). Attach the pink wire from the Haltech ECU.

Duffy, Don't want to complicate all the info you're receiving. Your in need of a 12v switched lead? Your running a Haltech Elite 750 that has a 34 pin main connector on top of the ECU, you must have a 34 pin harness connector? correct, Pin 26, looking at the connector on the top of the ECU, lower left corner, 12 v switched connection for multiple components.

Understand lazy, that's why I overlaid all Haltech components with the Haltech wiring harness, crank sensor, coolant temp, intake air, coil, injectors, TPS and fuel pump are on a standalone harness / circuit away from the stock harness and fuse box. The only spice into the stock harness is the switched 12v ignition (main ECU connection) at the key harness and stock tach through the Haltech coil wire. All stock gauges, components and lights function and operate on the stock harness and stock fuse box.

Did you purchase a wiring harness from Haltech? the premium harness runs back through fuses box and relays. Did your harness come with two shielded cables (4 wire for cam and crank sensor)? The Cam sensor wire has a switched 12v (red).

Racer X No, inspected the back of caliper, no anti rattle springs in place. Just the rod retainer spring (on back side of caliper) connecting and holding the pad rods. missing the spring pushing down on the backing plate. Found the springs replacements on-line, they actually call them "anti rattle springs". Toyota requires one per caliper (bottom of each caliper), couple of YouTube video's suggesting to add an additional spring on the top as well. Ordered 4. Thank you for the info.

Hi All, When coasting can hear a rattle in the front of car after further inspection it's the front brake pads in the Toyota calipers. The pads have a slight play up and down, under vehicle weight and non-braking conditions they're moving as the rotor turns. Louder when I start to drive and the brakes are cold, quieter when the brakes are hot but still moving. Have others experienced this noise with the Toyota front brake conversion? Any fix to the issue? No tabs to bend on the pad shim / backing plates. New pads only 300 miles. Thanks.

All, Searched the archives but this may be new issue due to the supply chain limitations we all live in today. Need to rebuild my L28 and will use the components/cores (block and head) in the car now. Engine is NA ITB's. N42 block and N42 head, stock, zero previous head work or zero bore on the block. Every builder I've engaged on average is 6 months + to rebuild. A large portion of the timeframe is waiting for suppliers to deliver parts, pistons etc.. Would like to pre-purchase / acquire the internals prior to pulling the engine (car still runs), to cut down the rebuild timeframes. Understand bearing and other internal parts cannot be purchased until disassemble /assemble. Goal is 200+ HP (just dyno tuned 160hp, sad and tired engine )with this engine, what's good enough for my driving ability. What would you do to this stock platform? keeping the engine NA, N42 block and N42 head. Flat top pistons - What size, cast or forged? Head - Understand ton or work will go into the head, What size values or spring kit would your purchase? Cam - What size cam? running 45mm Kameari manifold and 45mm ITB's. Already installed and running, lighten flywheel, 6 into one header, 5 speed wide ratio, R200 3.9 differential, Haltech 750 ECU. Thank you for your input.

Hi Duffy. How did the IAC workout? Where did you purchase? brand? My set-up is currently void of a IAV. Spent the large dollars for a professional tune. Passes up to 7,000 RPM. Was surprised ITB's without a IAC require a ton of ignition advance on the low end, close to 30 but required to eliminate the stumble when you stab the accelerator. Idling high now 900-1000 RPM but running strong. Who are you working with at Haltech? CA office or other location?

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Hi Gundee, Will check it out. Not sure the installation as I'm not running a MSD module. Ignition set-up ECU coil wire to a small ignitor module to the single HEI coil (ignitor and coil pic in thread). Can add filters at the coil and have been trying different configs. MSD is a ignition module so the installation could be similar. Suspect you're right the com loss could be battery voltage changes as Haltech installation instruction have the main ECU connections to the + /- of the battery. That all runs through a relay and fuse box to the ECU and harness. Check and see if I can data log batt voltage on my next drive and check for any changes in voltage when the com goes down. Thanks for the info.

Hi All, Still having issues with the connection from the ECU to laptop while driving. Very random, not at specific rpm or load. Can turn on and off components (lights, turn sigs, radio, heater etc..). Will stay connected on a drive for 20-30 mins then disconnects, next drive disconnects every 5 mins multiple times, then stays connected for the remainder of the drive. Where is the noise coming from randomly? Specs: L28 73 240Z stock wiring harness with a Haltech 750 ECU, ITB's, single HEI coil, sequential fire with a modern electronic distributor (sync and home signals), in-tank fuel pump (static speed) . I've grounded every thing to the block and added grounds, shorten the ground loops, coil , distributor, and intake. Cleaned and reinstalled all stock ground locations, upgraded the alternator with diode connector (removed the stock VR). Added a suppressor to the coil positive, removed and installed the 2.2mf condenser, removed and installed a 3.0mf condenser and replaced the laptop and com cable (twice), going broke. Here's an unusual questions. Can the fan clutch noise create any interference with an ECU connection or an electronic distributor? Any suggestions? Thank you.

Hi Duffy, Running 347cc EV14 Bosch, 1/2" height. My throttles are smaller, moved the fuel pressure reg setting to 45lbs unvacuumed. Sends a nice quick mist into the chamber. Agree my throttles are rated up to 70HP each, will never achieve the max HP x6 rating N/A. Believe part of the problem with ITB's, folks are over fueling these engines with big bodies and large injectors. Car is going to the tuner, taken it as far as my knowledge base. Self tuning beautifully but tuning decel is whole other animal. The lean spots at shift points and decay at decel is tricky with the distance of the injector to the valve.

Jeff, Thanks for the heads up on the remflex gasket, worked out perfectly.

Thanks, Ordered two gaskets, will source the copper adhesive locally. Hope this will do the trick. I'm map tuning so tearing down over and over, will reset the tune. Cant tune with the leak, O2 sensor reading will be false. Any strength advantage with all head studs versus bolts on the manifold and studs on the header? BTW- the bolt and nut sizes I referenced were the tool sizes required. When you've taking apart and reinstalled anything a couple of times you just look and bolt and reference the tool required. Will report back when reinstalled.

Here's the area with the leak.

Hi Steve, Inquired about doubling up but could not get any of the local shops to say, yes, that's the answer. It's always about inspecting the flange and new hardware. Not familiar with a Beck - Arnley gaskets ?? Willing to try anything at this point. Thanks again.

Hi All, Purchased a manifold gasket from MSA. Installed to fix a vacuum leak on a new manifold. Fixed the vacuum leak but under driving load developed a exhaust leak. See pic and leak location (yellow dot, front side of the center section of the exhaust flange). I can put my finger over the location and feel the air pulses. Engine ran for three weeks fine but developed the leak while driving under load. Running a Kameari manifold with MSA 6 into one header on a L28 with N42 head. Retorqued the flange nuts no change, It's appears I'll be crying and removing the entire intake and header again to install a new gasket (third time is the charm I hope 😞). Any tricks, torqued bolts center out on the last reinstall or different year gasket?. Running 12/MM bolts on the manifold and studs with 13/MM nuts on the header flange. The folks selling the Kameari manifold show a manifold gasket but not sure if their gasket is any different then the purchase from MSA?? But the manifold sealed (no issues idle speed variation). https://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-intake-manifold-kit-l-type-50mm-l6-rod-type.html Thank you,