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with a stock turbo.. at 12 psi... and a well tuned fuel management and bigger injectors you can anywhere from 270rwhp to 300rwhp. A new turbo can get ya push ya even further. Don't get me wrong about the 280ZXT ECU it's a good ECU, but if you want some power, and reliable fuel management with diff injectors and a turbo, i would definatly go for a standalone setup. MegaSquirt is about $300, but has to be built from scratch and requires a laptop and SDS is about $1,500 can can be tuned without a laptop which is an advantage. The Z31 turbo ECU can also be configured to work with the L28 with proven horspower bumps. Your compression sounds good... the majority of the newer cars coming out with turbo's are about 8.5:1 and yours is a bit lower.. so it'll work out! the T-5 tranny is always a plus... and alot of fun.. but isn't necessary unless you want some huge HP and torque numbers. Then the T5 will step in to handle the power.

*sigh* a high compression turbo L28 motor will not hurt the motor. However.. and intercooler is recommended to prevent detonation. If your looking for high horspower figure's... stay away from high compression. The only advantage is quicker throttle response and more low end torque. However, if you compare an L28 turbo motor with low compression, and a high compression turbo motor, at the SAME boost levels, the low compression with produce more horsepower and torque and get better fuel consumption all the way around. Also with high compression i've read that you need a higher octane fuel for the car to run as smooth as a low compression. With a proper setup, and an intercooler, you should be able to push around 12psi safely without blowing a head gasket, or other vital engine parts. Electronic's wise... ditch a ZXT ECU.. and go for a standalone setup like MegaSquirt, SDS or even an Z31 turbo ECU. Plenty of information can be found at http://hybridz.org But i plan on using my N47 block and head and putting making it a turbo.. with a t3/t04e hyrbid turbocharger, and SDS fuel managment with the MSD 6al controlling my ignition.. and some 440cc Toyota Supra turbo injectors and an Izuzu or Spearco intercooler. it'll be interesting

what does progressive mean?

Just bring in a picture of a ZXR to a local vinyl shop and they will make it look almost identical!

Dreco.. NICE CAR! What kinda seats do you have in that beauty? The first vid.. Window's wasnt able to render.. but the 2nd vid worked great! Good job!

keep in mind that the lighter.. racing ones... will bend and dent on normal road use... and that wouldn't bee so fun at almost $250 a wheel!

hmm sounds good! I really wanted to go 16x7 with a 0 offset... but i have heard alot of reviews about the 15's.... and that 16's were too big.. and cause tire rubbing... and blah blah blah but they look soo good on Z's! Steve.. what size do you have on your car.. soo sexy! Looks like i'll be getting some gunmetal 15x7's with a 0 offset and a polished lip! yummy!

There's a reason why the chassis and body of almost all F1 cars and Ferrari's are pure carbon fiber! Stronger than metal.. and lighter than metal.. especially fiberglass! Very strong stuff... and very light... it can dent in.. but pops back out.. just the paint needs to be redone and maybe the resin.. if the dent actually cracked the C/F.

so can I order Panasports with any offset I want? I thought they came in just a certain offset.. ?! Man if i can choose my offset.. whooaaa yay! I love the deep dish look.. ohh sexy. If so would it cost extra?

.. thanks guys! Hey does anyone think Gunmetal would look good on an Orange car like mine.. or should I go silver?

I found some Watanabe pics.. but just doesn't do the justice! Panasport i want!

Hey, just had a quick request... anyone have pictures of gunmetal panasports for their Z? I am looking into buying a set for christmas.. and i can't decide between the silver, or the gunmetal with the polished lip! I searched the gallery and no luck!

me too! I can't wait! There is a HUGE thread i started a while back about opinions on headlight covers.. got tons of responses

Check this site out... full of TONS of info about fusible links http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html

... true true.... I will never forget what happened with that one... ohh man! That was a mess! I'll keep the Z in the driveway.. thank ya very much :stupid: :dead:

My poor Z! Suffering the snow and salt and NOOO!!! Poo... oh well.. i'll have fun driving it! Sideways! hehe

Ground Control has them available and so does Modern-Motorsports

Has anyone ever seen this? a DATSUN "car-shield" ?! I found it in an Antique Classic Car showroom, hanging on the wall, and I asked if it was for sale, and they said they have no idea. So I asked how much they would want for it... I payed $1.00 ! hahaha.... Anyway, would this be worth anything? I guess it bolts onto the front grill, for looks or something. Anyone seen it before?

I have them on my 1978.. and I use 3M double sided tape... works great!

Go under the Photo Gallery section and start browsing through the pictures... you will find TONS trust me

I hate those stinking exhuast manifold bolts... we'll the ones that attach to the intake manifold... grr.. i hate those... and also some of the screws under the dash by the heater core... by the heater hoses and stuff..

Just did a post about this in the General Discussion threads... Yes it's ok... but if you have a catalytic converter or an O2 sensor, i wouldn't advise it.... also.. isn't really that benificiary, unless you have $$$. But read the thread

don't get twice pipes.. unless you want a loud.. open exhuast race car sound.. yeh

Looking for extra power? Ever heard of Race Gas?!! "Race Gas" is just really really high octane fuel, which burns more efficiently, and slower to provide addition power, and a smoother running engine. But RACE gas is EXPENSIVE, sometimes $7.00 a gallon! Why not aviation fuel? Airports sell 100 LL everywhere and it's blue! Damn cheap too! Airports sell the following... 80/87 RED 100LL BLUE 100/130 GREEN Jet YELLOW (DO NOT USE!) Karocine (spelling?) Per gallons from $2.75-$3.75 Now, anyone can go to an airport and BRING YOUR OWN CONTAINER and buy some gas and fill it up. It is illegal to run "race gas" or high octane gas in vehicles running on the street, only for race and track. Now there are 2 diff. kinds of basic automotive fuels, aside from jet fuel, diesal, etc. Leaded and Unleaded. What's the difference? Is it safe to use? ------------------------------ "The Unites States and most other countries switched from leaded to unleaded fuel years ago. The lead additive, tetraethyllead, retarded "preignition" in gasoline engines. Preignition causes engines to run rough, and to not shut off when the key is turned off. The suppression of preignition is measured by the gasoline's "octane rating". A good high-octane gasoline allows a standard engine to run smoothly. Leaded gasoline also protected some older car engines from wearing down by covering soft engine parts with lead-containing material. Facts: * Lead in fuel serves as a lubricant, raises the octane rating and serves as a cushion for the valve/seat interface. * Most STC's, e.g. Peterson, for use of auto gas (mogas) in a certificated engine exclude the use of auto gas during the run-in and break-in process. Discussion: Aircraft piston engine valve seats, especially the exhaust, operate at much higher temperatures than automotive, motorcycle or other altitude challenged motors. Elevated temperatures present three challenges to the design requirements for exhaust valve seats, 1) the oxidation resistance of the material must stand up to the harsh environment created by exhaust gases, 2) the coefficient of expansion for the material must be close enough to aluminum so that the seat does not fall out, and 3) the material must resist micro welding to the valve face when the valve closes on the seat. These three requirements severely limit the number of candidate materials from which to choose. A common characteristic of all of the candidates, however, is that they have a high nickel content, a material that forms a spongy oxide on the surface at elevated temperatures. In the early days of air-cooled aircraft engine design, it was discovered that the spongy oxide absorbs lead that is left behind from the combustion of leaded fuel. The oxide matrix filled with lead forms a layer that not only cushions the valve face when it closes on the seat but also serves as a high temperature lubricant so the seat and valve face do not weld together. When the nickel oxide layer is not filled with lead, premature wear of the seat is a high probability. It is extremely important to have lead present in the combustion chamber during the initial hours of operation if the design life of the cylinder is to be realized. This is especially true for higher compression ratio or turbocharged engines. Once the lead/oxide layer has been created during run-in and break-in, it will maintain itself reasonably well even if auto gas is burned for several fill-ups. Based on experience, ECi strongly recommends the use of leaded fuel at least every few tanks so that the lead/oxide layer is maintained. The higher the compression ratio, the more important the use of leaded fuel becomes. On the other hand, lower compression engines are plagued by lead compound build-ups in the valve guides that can lead to valve sticking. The 80-87 fuel these engines were designed to use is not universally available, and some of the available 80-87 fuel has zero lead content. The original version of this fuel had up to .5 ml/gal of tetraethyl lead, which was just about right for these engines. The 2 ml/gal of tetraethyl lead in 100LL fuel is a real challenge for engines like the C-85, O-200 or O-235. Auto gas (mogas) has greater variables for chemistry, vapor pressure, contaminants, etc. which change with locale and season. It is not a source controlled product such as aviation gas. The adverse effects for aircraft piston engines that can be attributed to auto gas are well documented by gasoline companies and ECi as well as the engine manufacturers caution all owner operators to use auto gas only with full knowledge of the problems, appropriate care and consideration of possible limits to warranty. Anyway besides a bunch of facts from various sources..... it is OK to use on cars with no-cat's... but it must be used SAFELY and without harm. I have no responsibility for the actions or consequences resulting in using leaded fuel. But i figured maybe people would want to know a cheaper alternative, and the basics of what type of fuel can a vehicle run.

thanks man!