duffymahoney

My oer/ SK intake plan is going to be perfect. Basically I’m looking for a clean way to do iac and pcv. I will have a plate machined to cap this faux balance bar. Then tap each runner for 1/4 or 3/8. I love the oer/ Sk linkage. The IAC and PCV will be done on the bottom out of sight. This is what the Sk/ oer intake look like under that cap. Casting is a little rough for my personal tastes. I will use a Bosch 0280140551 IAC.

Leon Chisler's vintage OSGiken head. Straight L series engine porn. What he is doing to it. CP pistons, 90mm stroke en36 crank 89 bore billet chromoly caps crank girdle plate 3400 liter

So cool.

Real results would be dyno time and lots of headers. But I doubt that would ever happen. So many variables, I think it would be impossible to really test. cams, port work, compression, engine size, exhaust size, carb size, efi or not etc......

I don't know if it's a greddy shape. I would say it's not equal length. It is ceramic coated though.

The new fujitsubo header would be my easiest route, but the true equal length sure looks cool. Which is my goal. There is zero wrong with my current header. I contacted star road and spirit garage. Asked both about bolting up to the newer style fujitsubo exhaust.

Lol, 1.5 model? Between 2. New style exhaust, either adapted older header to the newer style exhaust or a test header? Who knows. It isn't the old style exhaust for sure. Fujitsubo did say that the old style header won't bolt onto new style exhaust as well. I guess the flange is in a different spot.

I have my next header narrowed down to a Star Road or a Spirit Garage. I want bigger and equal length. I currently have a new style fujitsubo.

I am running full sequential. Hoke crank trigger and jeep cas with a haltech elite 750 ecu

I used RB coils. lots of guys have used LS or ford coils. RB is a stronger coil then the LS unless you buy the AEM version

So neat looking

I have no clue, I am not doing the work. I believe he leaves the seats in, then replaces at the end.

More porting updates. now time to pick valves

My engine builder/ fellow Z nerd has started porting my Prestine e31. That I also vapor blasted. This will be my head for my stroker build.

No I didn’t. I have new motor mounts. Maybe that helped? It was tricky. But slid on.

Powder coated pan is in. Wow what a pain to do on my back under the car. I need a lift! I did just past snug 3x around with a 1/4 ratchet. Hopefully she doesn’t leak.

You can pull the pan without pulling the motor.

Pull the pan off, I didn't do that right away. Mine sat from the late 70s till 2 years ago (39 ish years). I pulled the pan last week, and it had crazy sludge in the bottom. So I have been driving around with nasty sludge.

Those tools like very neat! Someday I might paint this car, but I would rather not. Thank you for the compliment. It's been a fun project. I really like working on the Z.

Now that is neat! I found out about TFC when I got a set of ztheraphy carbs. I was impressed by the zinc. So I emailed them and asked who the shop was. They are usually pretty fast as well. Most zinc shops are slow and smaller batches aren’t important.

I think I have used 4 shops over the years. Most are the same. I currently loving TFC in Oregon. Prep is key.

No I don't plate at home. I send it off, zinc is cheap to have done. I have been sending car parts off to zinc for a while now. I found a shop I like and just ship them boxes of parts. Works great.

Well the original oil pan seal finally died. So I pulled the pan, zinc’d the pan bolts and powder coated the outside of the pan. The inside black material is pretty good condition. It’s come off a little at the edges. Now to get it on without too many scratches.

The ebay wire loop style clamps work well and look fairly accurate.

Interesting fact. My late series 1 has a attachment for the hand throttle on the pedal, but doesn't have the mount for the cable.