duffymahoney

Super happy with how the ITBs look.

So getting a vac log/ map signal has proved very hard with my manifold. So I am going to attempt to re tap my BSPT threads to NPT (I have had great success with it actually) Then use these. https://www.universalpowerconversion.com/miniature-male-branch-tee-hose-barb-brass-p-3356.html https://www.universalpowerconversion.com/miniature-male-branch-tee-hose-barb-brass-p-3368.html So the runners will all have a 1/8 NPT by 1/8 Hose barb T. That way I can connect to a map sensor and also the FPR. Then on the runner with 1/4 NPT, I will use the 1/4 NPT by 1/8 hose barb T, then tap (or soldier) the top flat section to 1/8 NPT by 3/8 Hose barb (3/8 will go to the brake booster). Then I have nice braided vacuum hoses to make the balance tube/ vac log. Should look good and solve all my issues.

If you want. I would sell you my honeycomb filters at a loss. I don’t like the look of them for some reason. The fit is tight. But they work.

I'm doing the same. Super cool setup!

I found a mil spec wiring harness that is within 1mm of what I was planning. Plus it looks amazing. I bought one, hopefully it plugs right in.

I got a Datsun 2.2 resistor to go in line. I can use the negative on the coils or a digital out from the haltech, still stuff to figure out.

Well I struggled with the Jenvy colored throttle bodies for a while. But I think they are growing on me.

280z tach guts are in a series 1 tach housing. Hopefully the negative trigger and my coil on plug works with the tach with a 2.2 ohm resistor

Is the white current look important?

They aren’t installed yet. Hella 002395031 HLMP 7" 165MM H4 ECE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005OULUQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_EWBZCfslIvnH4 then you just pick a LED H4 bulb you like

No. My alternator will stay. It works perfectly. No on the headlight as well. I have vintage looking LEDs with matching vintage warm yellow bulbs I will install sometime.

I think I have my fpr and hose routing figured out. I’m using push lock AN fittings with braided hoses.

I found some stack filters I like. They have three different size mesh strainers. I was told I can remove one and add foam if needed. They look amazing. But we’re expensive. I hope I like the contrast of these and the Jenvy stacks From PJmotorsports

I also got my haltech in. I opted for the non terminated ended one. It’s has a very fancy fuse panel, relay board and it’s nice small package. I am taking my kick panel and having it copied in aluminum. Then powder coated (wrinkle or semi gloss?), I will use it to mount my ecu, tach signal converter and the fuse panel.

I got my Jenvy throttles in from Datsun Spirit. I found out they each have a 6mm vacuum port on top! . I will use these for map, FPR and maybe IAC.

Well I looked into the Jeep. I found a nos Jeep unit and vapor blasted my pedestal. I will take it to my machine shop on Tuesday. I will have it matched to the stock spline and I will use the stock shaft bushing.

280zxt dizzy is done. I vapor blasted it the housing, wrinkle coated the godzilla race works cap and new zinc hardware. I might not be able to live with the size of it. It's pretty huge.

Working on my 280zxt Cas signal, so I can do full sequential. I got a very nice 280zxt distributor without a cas from a fellow Datsun nerd. I then found a basically new fully Nissan Cas from a 1998 Nissan Quest. Which has the correct trigger wheel. Pretty neat. Dizzy is getting vapor blasted today and I should have it all installed by the weekend. Pretty excited!

I will do the canbus wideband as well. I will do the passenger kick panel install. Datsun spirit sales a plate that bolts in.

I got all my boots in, I wish there was an easy way to test the coils. But I know the spring is compressed on the spark plug, so I should be good. How has everyone run new ecu wiring into the engine bay? My early 240z has dealer AC. Which complicates things. Really I only have two holes open. The choke cable hole and the tunnel hole near the shifter. I would rather not cut any holes. If I leave the coil power wiring in the engine bay and do the o2 sensor and maybe the triggers for the coils through tunnel hole I am thinking I might have enough room for it with those two holes? It’s going to be tight, but I think I can do it all clean and nice. I will be using german braied loom for the whole project. No pulsed outputs. Plans Choke hole Injector wiring Cas wiring Air temp Coolant temp TPS Crank trigger wiring Tunnel hole Injector triggers Power and ground O2 sensor Fuel pump wiring is already in place. I also got in the euro kit from Hoke for my crank trigger. Which should work better on my series 1 dampener. I have to remove .08 from the backside to have it perfect. Then off to paint. Blue or black?!

I love how the harness will tuck

Plug clears with ease

Whee. That’s a great looking setup! I would guess the plug clears. But I should know this am.

Bracket is done! I need to test a plug. But I think they will clear. Pretty darn happy with it.