Jeff Berk

It looks like $300 each https://www.sportsandclassics.com/parts/non-british/datsun-non-british/datsun-240z-260z-280z-panasport-z-light-wheels/ It's been listed for 2 months so he might consider offers.

Hi, I really like the looks of Panasport wheels and I found a set on Craigs list but I'm not sure if its wise to purchase used aluminum wheels. Does anyone have any input? I would need to purchase new tires since my existing wheels are 15 inch. They will also need some cleaning up and new clear coat. https://limaohio.craigslist.org/wto/d/findlay-panasport-formula/7615888664.html Jeff

My understanding is the spline part and set-screw tube are welded together. As long as the two parts are precisely aligned, I might be able to turn it down on a lathe from 11.18 mm to 10.7 mm.

I need to extend the crank shaft maybe 1/2 inch to keep it from rubbing against the door card covering. I had covered the door in leather and added 1/4-inch or more of foam and quilted the leather. I've found some extensions for Ford, Chevy (picture attached) and a few other cars but I was told by the vendor that it will not fit the Datsun Z. Before I try and machine a couple, does anyone know a source for this item. If not, anyone have a detailed, scale drawing of the shaft I can use as a starting point if I have to create one?

I thought it was the right-hand nut that was difficult to find.

No instructions are provided and the supplier warns you that this is the case. Going with what I saw on line and from documentation of an install of the same supplier on a 240z dash, I started in the middle with the 3 gages and worked outward. That's when I realized the problem with the vent holes. I don't think they are unsurmountable; but, I'm not not very good at sewing leather yet. Its going to be a learning process as is most tasks on my 260z. I just installed my first attempt at a new driver's side lower panel. I need to still flatten out the seams and add the saddle stitching in red. After test driving a few cars that had contrasting stitching, I think it's growing on me.

Well this as well as can be expected... https://streamable.com/ts3evp I might be tabling this for a few months while I learn how to do leather work with my dash back in my car.

I had the vendor delete the cut out for the cigarette lighter but instead send a little extra leather so I could make a cone after cutting out a hole for it. Now I'm considering deleting the cigarette lighter and possibly the dimmer and trip odometer controls. This is going to be a very frustrating project. I have the leather partially installed now and the holes for the speedometer and tachometer are going to be a problem as will the hole for the driver-side vent. I've tried using water with a little neat's foot oil mixed in for the initial soaking and rubbing alcohol and water for subsequent soakings so the leather will stretch. Then water and a hair dryer to shrink the leather in other areas. The 3M brand Fastbond 30-NF contact cement is fantastic. It is a water based, low odor, water cleanup contact cement with great hold properties. I was able to find a gallon on facebook/marketplace not too far from me at a reasonable price. I had asked the vendor to use black thread on the remake but he did it in red like the first one. I might keep it red as it is not bad looking after all.

I returned the old dash cover to them and have been communicating with them off and on for a few weeks. They finally shipped the replacement and it arrived in Chicago yesterday. I hope it will be just a few more days and I'll have it. I'll post some details on the installation as it progresses. There was a 2015 post with details on the installation on a 240z you might want to look at: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50755-leather-dash-cover-installation/

Have you checked with Datsun Spirit for suggestions? I've never shipped an engine but it seams that you would want the engine supported by the points its supported in the car: engine mounts and transmission bellhousing. Warning: Once again... I don't know what I'm talking about.

I'll update you on the results after I receive and install the dash. It is going to take a few weeks but based on the one I returned, the contouring is done with curved seams. From what I understand from another classiczcars contributor, I'll need to wet the leather and stretch it over the dashboard to dry using lots of clamps in order to form it. Some sites suggest wetting leather with a mixture of water, alcohol, and baby shampoo. Here's the one they should be sending. Note that I told them I would need to have a left-hand drive version. I am thinking the red stitching is a bit too much so I'll likely dye them black. It also lacks the cigarette lighter hold so i requested they send me the leather for one and I'd install it where needed.

The dash cover supplier agreed to take care of the issue and I just mailed the 240z leather cover back to them in the UK. Hopefully, they will send the right one now. The door card covers and center console covers from them worked out well. Captain Obvious: Yes, you are correct, it is just you. SteveJ: Your second picture looks like my dash, except I ran the wires behind the dash ; )

I'm really upset with J-F Customs for abandoning me after this purchase.

My error, the hole in question is the cigarette lighter, not the ignition. I think what worries me now is the differences in the dash contours. This could cause some problems getting the leather to fit properly. The 260Z dash does not go down as far as the 240Z dash. That could be helpful since I can make the dash cover smaller, not larger. The 240Z dash has cutouts for the cigarette lighter and hazard switch. For the 260Z, the switch moved down to the center console. Note the hazard switch hole for the 240Z has variations, too. The lighter hole is a problem since there is nothing I can do to move the hole on the leather and would have to replace this section of leather. The shape of the ventilation controls area is different. I might be able to stretch the leather to get it to fit. The gauge lights dimmer and trip reset are on the front of the dash on a 260Z. Cutting new holes is not a problem. There is a cutout for the glove box lock on the 240Z. The lock is integrated into the door on the 260Z. No hole was cut out in the leather for the glovebox lock so I'm good there. There are some contour differences, too. The change in contours could be a killer. It might be worth giving it a try before I spend money on replacing the section of leather under the steering wheel.

I was redoing my '74 260z interior in leather and so far have the seats, door panels, and center console completed. The problem is that my supplier, J-F Customs in the UK, sent a dashboard cover that I think is for a 240z. The most apparent issue is that the ignition switch hole was moved lower a few inches lower in the 260z. A 240z owner on this site has successfully used J-F so I figured I was safe buying it. J-F Customs has been responding to my e-mails that they are designing the correct cover for my dash but that's been going on now for weeks. Now they don't respond at all. Where I can use help is that I'd like a local leather smith to replace the panel that includes the ignition hole but I'd like to know if there is anything else that has changed between the 240z and early 260z dashes? Jeff

Ruggable is sending me a sample piece to try out. My replacement carpet slides around and I could see it getting caught under the brake at some point. If Nissan sold this car today, I think it would be recalled for the carpet being a safety hazard. Thanks for posting this find. Jeff

If you cannot find it, try to do it yourself. If you still have the old one, you can use it as a template.

When you said you are getting it back on the road, does that mean you've never personally had it on the road? If you have driven it before, did you ever need the choke? Are you planning any engine modifications that could make starting more difficult? I have to use my choke for starting my 2.8L with SU's even in summer.

You might want to contact a local Toyota dealer and arrange for them to check the car over with them reporting directly to you with their findings.

I guess the question is why delete the choke at all?

I'd just say that the first flare was practice.

I've took advantage of the weak British pound and purchased some leather interior parts from the UK. I installed the door covers this past weekend and will do the center console next with the dash sometime this winter. The leather panel cover looked plain so I added some quilting to it using a sewing machine I barrowed from the library and 1/4 and 1/2 inch foam. The panel looks OK but I need to try and get some wrinkles out with some heat and leather conditioner. I also need to get the door latch straightened out and find a replacement plastic chrome piece for the top of the door pull. (Anyone have a used one they want to part with?)

Thanks, now I feel OK with keeping the SUs and not dropping another $750 into the engine.

I felt a little deflated when I first saw my 260Z because according to the documentation, the car once was equipped with triple Webers. By the time I got it, the Webers had been replaced with round-top SUs. The SUs are working fine and I rebuilt them a couple of years ago with components from Z-therapy. The engine is a bored 280, with non-stock pistons, cam, headers, etc. so I thought the SUs might be limiting the engine. The SUs are so simple that I don't know if I should consider them elegantly designed or an overly simplistic approach to carburetor design. I've rebuilt typical American carburetors in the 70's so I am comfortable with complex carburetors that lack an oil dip stick. I don't race the car except for autocross which I've not done since before Covid. I'm a little stretched for funds but there is a local Z owner doing an LS swap that is getting rid of some components and is asking a reasonable price for a dual weber conversion kit: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/820044696097399?hoisted=false&ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Aa9e2d1ce-a84b-4e85-a9e8-cbcbc87462d8 I'm low on funds because I just spent $800 on leather door panel, center console, and dash covers. All this leather smells good, definitely better than the mildew odor when I first got the car. Most of the mildew odor went away when I pulled out the shag carpeting. But I digress.

Thanks Mark. I purchased 1/4-inch "scrim foam" after viewing the technique on sailrite.com. I've got the foam glued and stitched onto the leather and will be sewing the diagonals hopefully tomorrow. I like the burlap idea but the scrim foam saves a step.