Ed

I notice you have your boy standing guard at the steps.

Don't forget to install new bump stops. That alone will take up 2 inches of travel.

Let us know where you are in CA. Then someone can suggest a Z shop. If you are sure you want to sell it then you will get alot more if it's running. A dead Z usually ends up as a parts car.

You could start out by taking off the drain plug on the back cover of the diff. If you have grinding then you should definately have metal chunks in there. After you drain the fluid stick a magnet or your pinkie in the hole and feel around. Good luck.

After you remove the undercoating. And after the marine clean, metal ready, and POR-15. Then what? Do you put new undercoating? What kind?

The inside's on your tranny are probably worn out (old and abused). There are several parts that could be worn causing it to pop out of gear. If you are going to have it rebuilt I guarantee you that fifth isn't the only gear that is going to need some work. I'm not sure if it would even be worth the trouble of rebuilding. Drain the fluid on the tranny and look at the plug. It has a magnet attached to it and should give you an indication of the metal shavings that have been floating around. Alot of shavings bad. Small metal chunks bad. By the way do you know who did the swap and did they change the fluid? There are alot of other trannys out there. My suggestion is to get another one. If you plan on being abusive then get a tranny out of a turbo model. I believe these were made alot tougher to handle the power of the turbo. You should be able to pick one up for 100-200 dollars. If you get one at a junk yard they usually give you a 30 day warranty. Which is plenty of time to find out if it is bad. Make sure you change the fluid. And before you take it home lay the tranny up side down pull the drain plug and inspect the magnet. Good luck Ed

Happy Thanksgiving guys, and Happy Holidays!

Use an "easy out". You can find them at most automotive stores. It's where you drill a small hole in the center of the stud then use a "screw" that has reverse threads on it. As you turn counter clockwise to loosen the stud the "screw" tightens. Be carefull and don't by a cheap one. The cheap one's tend to break thus leaving you between a rock an a hard place. Use some WD-40 to loosen the broken stud on the manifold. Good luck.

I remembered what Motorsports web site is: zcarparts Duhh!!:stupid:

Welcome, to the club! You will find alot of your answers if you use the "search" function. To answer some of your questions. A paint job can cost you from a couple of hundred, (Earl Scheib) quick cheap and wont last. Or you can spend up to 6,000 at a decent body shop. It all depends how long you plan on keeping the car and if you want to preserve it. Where are you located? One good source for parts on the west coast is Motorsports Auto. They specialize in Z parts. I can't remember their web site but I'm sure someone else can hook you up. Good luck

You can almost see the driver now. Big hat with the fuzzy brim, gold chains around the neck, shirt undone to the belly button, gold frame sunglasses, and listening to disco, pimp daddy!

I too learn alot reading other posts. I'm getting ready to do a restoration on my car and a fuel cell has been on my mind. I'm not happy with the current stock fuel capacity. Not that there is anything wrong with my tank, but I always thought of cutting out the spare tire well and putting a 20+ gallon tank back there. I do want to maintain a "stock" appearance. Could I still get this with a fuel cell? Can you guys post some pics?

Could be two things; 1. Your 5 speed isn't new. And 2. Check to make sure that your shifter isn't hitting any part of the center console. I've heard that if you don't get the right shifter then it will bind, rub, or get obstucted by the center console which requires a little bit of cutting.

Well I still haven't attempted to fix the leak. I just stuffed a rag under the dash to catch the oil. Bizza what is this reverse feed function? Can you describe it?

I lived for a while in Charleston SC and was looking to have my rear bumper redone. I looked in the phone book under "plating" and the only place I found was a company in Charlotte, NC. I called them and they told me they would send the bumper to Wisconsin. AND there was a 16 week turn around time! So my bumper still looks the same. Sorry, I know I didn't really help, good luck.

I thought I was going to pick up on some killer advise. I'm getting ready to move into my new house next week and my wife is already telling me not to spend too much time in the garage. Come on guys what excuses do you use to be able to spend all night out there?

Get yourself a SB chevy V8 crate engine (350-400hp). They are ready to go just drop it in the car. You will then have a good powerplant to start with (if you still want to get to 800hp). Upgrade the rest of the car as you add more power to the engine, remember you also have to stop the car. Your $8k will go quicker than you think. I've spent almost that much in the tires, wheels, suspension, and brakes.

Your rattle can come from three places; 1. The throw-out bearing gone bad. 2. The plastic bushings at the bottom of the lever. 3. A loose gear shift knob.

Thanks, the hood is aligned on all 3 sides. I was just having problems down by the sugar scoops. Your directions should help alot. My problem was that I moved the entire hinge down. :stupid: Thanks

Can someone recommend a head/machine shop in the western New York area.

My first thought would a combination of old, tired valve springs and rocker arm retaining springs. Valve adjustment could have been way off too. Good idea to adjust them every 10k. Adjust them and if it happens again then you might need new springs. Also check for unusual wear on the cam lobe and where it makes contact with the rocker arm.

The front end of my hood next to the headlight bucket where the hinge is, is out of allignment. The hood sits about 1/2 of an inch higher than the headlight bucket. I've tried to move the hinge but I can't get them even. What am I missing?

Victor, Nice job! I don't know if this was mentioned before but the urathane air dam will flex under high speeds. The bottom lip needs to be supported in the center. I've seen one flex up to 2-3 inches at 70 mph

John I think you hit the nail on the head.

Sounds pretty decent. Check the floor pans for rust. It does sound like he put some money into the engine. As long as it was done right you should have a sweet ride.