Ed

I went to the Motorsports Z show in California. As I was cruizing around, drooling over other Z's I saw a group of people getting together and holding a big ol banner for a foto. The banner said "240Z.ORG". Been here ever since. It's a great place to be.

I used an 81' five speed. Used the same shifter out of my 73' and had no problems at all. Oh yea, my car is a 73'

Well, if I had to do it all again I would start by doing my home work, hold out for a rust free California or Arizona car that was in great shape and free of rust, spend about 3-4K on the initial purchase on an already reliable car and modify after that as needed. Wait, I've already done that. :classic: Oh, yea!!!!!! When it comes to the wife, I usually tell her "hey, we're spending 400 dollars a month on your car so,... I'm going to spend the same on "maintaining" the Zed! (I usually get no argument).

So, if you use an L28 with flat top pistons, modified head (N42 or E88, ported intake & polished exhaust), Carbed, with a mild cam for street drivability, headers & exhaust. What kind of horse power can you expect?

Definately check the timing. An engine that won't rev over 2800 has to have something really out of whack.

To me it sounds like you have looked at your suspension parts and so far it all looks O.K. The problem has to be in the body. Some time in the car's history it probably either got hit or it hit something. I've seen cars that had a direct impact on the front suspension at a 90 degree angle. All the suspension looks good but the body is out of alignment. Only a frame alignment shop with lazer pointers that are capable of micro measurements can tell. Don't waste your time taking it to Pep Boys. You have to go to a body shop that specializes in unibody repairs.

Measure the valve height of other valves and compare it to your problem valve. This might tell you if you bent the valve. You do need to use a compressor to fill the cylinder with enough air to be able to compress the spring without the valve going down. You can also use a piece of 1/4" fuel line, feed it through the spark plug hole towards the culprit valve. Raise the piston to create some resistance. This should work. After you get the valve keeper off, remove the spring. Lower the piston, and manually grab the valve stem, give it a spin and check for binding. If it feels tight or it won't rotate then you probably did bend it. Raise the piston against the fuel line to re-install the springs & keepers. Don't forget to adjust your valves. By the way did you ever find the lost lash pad, not to mention the other keeper?

What about a little bit of Nitrous?

Use some double sided tape. And on the body kits go to Motorsports

I started out taking off the cowling between the hood and the windshield. Just out of curiosity. I figured lets take a look. After I removed it I noticed there was a little bit of rust, so I figured I would get some POR 15 and take care it. While I was cleaning out the leaves and rest of the compost I ended up taking out the entire windshield wiper system. From the motor to the arms everything. I noticed the arms were a little difficult to move by hand. So I started to take the arms apart. I cleaned it up and am getting ready to paint (the arms). My question is what kind of grease should I use on the arms? Hope I can remember how it all goes back together.

I just took a virtual ride! Saaawwweeettt!!!

I learned a hard lesson once, about 50 miles from nowhere. Keep German parts in German cars and keep Japanese parts in Japanese cars!

Are the Hella H-4 better than the stock lights? I recently replaced my headlights (preventative maintanance). But I still don't think they are as bright as other cars. Would the Hella headlights be worth the investment?

Kind of stuck between a rock and a hard place.

NGK BPR6ES

Check out the post in this forum titled "Locking wheel lug nuts" it's on page 2.

Thanks

I'd stay away from that light switch until you find the short.

Whats a Z31?

I'm not sure but it sounds like you have a short somewhere. Maybe the switch itself?

Congratualtions on your new purchase! I believe you are talking about the bronze seats on the N42 head that tend to "sink". Lead to disaster, well that all depends on how many miles are on it and how often you adjust the valves. It is wise to have them replaced if you ever have the head off. As to the carbs the way I went about it was to get some used round tops off a 71 at a junk yard. $50-100 bucks depending on where you get them. Then send the carbs to Ztherapy to have some newly refurbished ones sent to you. Either that or spend twice as much refurbishing the used ones yourself. Get the heatshield and the air cleaner "box" from the junk yard while your at it.

O.K. SO let me see if I got this right. I have a 73 with stock brake clipers with the S/S lines. Now, if I go to Toyota or Napa and order some stock 1985 Toyota 4X4, 4cyl, 2.4 l. Brake calipers. They would be a direct bolt on? No modifications? I would go from a 2 piston to a 4 piston in about 1 hour?

Don't forget you have a lash pad roaming around the engine somewhere (hopefully in the bottom of the oil pan). You don't want that getting stuck in your timing chain.

I like this one alot more. I'll take one in orange.

What kind of alarm or security system do you have?