Ed

Doesn't look like the cops like that very much.

I do agree that each guage has there own idiosycrancies. And the only way to know for sure would be to use the direct probe. But like you said most Zed's run around the middle. Which should be around the "E" & "M".

I tried breaking up the easy out but no luck there. I was thinking about drilling around it, but I have a feeling that the drill bit will break. Then it will just get worse. The only thing that seems to work are grinding stones. I used those small stones attached to my dremmel tool and was able to cut it down a little before I ran out of stone. This process would also enlarge the hole. Could I fill it with JB Weld then tap it? Would it hold up? Or should I have it welded then re-tapped? I was thinking since the machine shop charges by the hour I wanted to strip the head down and have them do only the work I couldn't (seats, guides & valves). Getting that broken stud (that is now filled with hardened steel) out is going to take them a while. If they are just going to cut around it then have it welded well, that is something I could do. I think.

Operating temps should be around 180-190 degrees F. On your temp guage it should point between the "E" and the "M".

I was removing the studs from my head. After letting them soak in WD-40 I go to remove them. They all came out except for one. It broke. So I said to my self "here I go again" as I was having flashbacks. So I drilled out the center and proceeded to use the easy out. That broke too. I took out the dremmel tool and cut a slot on the tip of the bolt for the impact screw driver. I ended up breaking the tip off the bit. This bolt does not want to come out. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I could do next. I tried drilling it out again but a piece of the easy out is stuck in the center (hardened steel) of the broken stud.

Who ever told you that there was no gasket lied. There is a gasket. It covers the intake and exhaust manifold where it meets the head. Unfortunately there is no easy way to do it. You have to remove both the intake and exhaust manifolds to get to it. Some bolts you can get to from above some from below. You should be able to take the Intake manifold off with the carbs as one piece. After you get it all off make sure you replace the studs (these become brittle with age). If everything goes well it should take you only about 5-6 hours.

Good to hear the plugs are ok. hopefully you don't have too much damage.

Actually he loves the snow. I take him outside and he goes nuts. I'll post some more pix.

I've also heard that porting & polishing the intake runner will disturb the turbulance that is required to maintain air/fuel mixture. Thus causing the fuel to accumulate on the port wall and ending up as drops. You want to keep a rough surface on the intake side (about a 60 grit). On the other hand the exhaust side you could polish to a mirror finish to improve flow. The valves would benefit the most by doing a 3 angle valve job. This would increase flow. I would think that polishing the valve would be beneficial if this engine was torn down frequently like in racing applications. If you polish the valve then run the engine for normal street use eventually you would have build up.

Pull the spark plugs and look at the tip. If you did damage a valve the tip of the plug will be destroyed:cry: . And it would only get worse from there. Start looking for that L28.

That's nice, especially for that price!

Try doing a search on this subject. I remember a couple of posts recommending a product a while back.

That's what I keep hearing. Man I tell you it's tough not being able to drive my car. I got so used to southern california weather where I drove my Zed every day. Now I just dream of cruizing down that long highway, radio playing that tune, Z purring:cry: . Mother nature better get spring here quick! My neighbors are starting to think I'm a freek, they see me push my Zed out of the garage start her up and then I sit inside for about 1/2 hour. Sometimes I'll drive up & down the driveway.

To have a head re-worked. Like new seats and guides. I'm just trying to get an idea of how much this will cost so I can butter up the wife.

So is this what a rusted through header looks like?

Another thing you should do is replace the stud bolts. These get brittle with age and sooner or later will break. Yea it's pretty cold up here (a big difference from San Diego). I think the high today was about twelve . My poor Z hasn't been outside in a while:cry: :cry: .

By any chance have you noticed steam coming out of your exhaust after the car has warmed up? If it is a bad head gasket, coolant will leak into the cylinder and end up as steam out the tail pipe. And vice versa pressure will build up in the radiator from the cylinder causing your coolant pressure to get too high and leaking out the overflow.

I've heard people using both kinds of gaskets with positive results. Personally I used the MSA "special" gasket and it developed pin size cracks after a couple of months. Next time I replace it I believe I will coat the gasket with that High-temp copper silicone stuff. The other type gasket I've heard people use is the metal core type.

I believe it is a brand name. Kind of like Holley is to carburators or Good Year is to tires.

I guess I'm not that far away. Hello there neighbors!!

What should one expect to pay to have the seats and guides replaced on a head (The head IS off the block)?

I must agree with most of your pics also. It definately looks like you did your homework. I lucked out and got a wrecked 81 non turbo. Ended up with the engine & tranny for $100 bucks. The rear end I'd keep a R-180, from what I've heard unless you plan to put some unreal amount of power to the pavement the R-180 can hold up to almost anything. I talked to a guy who builds drag cars out of Z's in Califoria. He puts a chevy big block in there and he said that the R-180 holds up no problem.

Is that 126HP on a stock L24 with round tops?

Since were talking about seats. My 73 does not have the "vents" in the back. I'm talking about the four quarter size screen looking things that would be around your lower back while seated. I thought maybe my seats were some cheap reproduction but they look fairly stock.