Ed

I don't think that there is anything wrong with first come first serve. But a pre-registration would alleviate overcrowding and the early a.m. confusion. Not to mention they could organize the cars by model.

5 x .08 x 12 Phillips head with lock washer and flat washer. (The 12 mm length is taken from the base of the head to the end of the screw. NOT total screw length.)

How does there pre-registration work? I would think if you really wanted to show your car then: 1. Pre-register by mail BEFORE the show. 2. You receive a parking coupon with an assigned spot, BEFORE the show. 3. A limited amount of parking spaces are available. With assigned spots we could have all the 240'z together, 260'z, 280'z, etc..

IF everything goes well and you don't have any problems (big IF) besides the head gasket you will also need a new intake / exhaust gasket, valve cover gasket and the gaskets that go around the thermostat housing. You might also want to replace some of the fuel lines while you have them off. You will also need fresh coolant. If everything goes as to be expected from a 30 year old. Then including the parts already mentioned you will also need; some asprin, band-aid's, a broken bolt extractor, and the front cover gaskets. Good luck, let us know how it goes.

Congrats on finding a Zed! Lets see some pictures . I'm not sure I've ever heard of a Maxima head fitting a L28, maybe the older Maxima's??? Installing a new head is no easy task. You must have the proper tools and follow certain procedures. Read your manual twice, and follow it to the letter!Invest in a timing chain tensioner holder from MSA. What work was done to the N42 head?

C'mon Vicky, not fair! In actuality by the time the convention comes around in August it will be nice. Very nice. About 80 degrees. This will be my first time entering my car.

I know that there is probably a good reason, but why doesn't MSA separate the cars by years as they do at other shows. It's a little annoying when your walking along trying not to drool over all the 240'z and then you have a row of 300'z then more 240'z then 350'z then more 240'z ??? It's like they are all out of sequence.

Chris, The picture of 27 is that in your back yard? I love the view. I want a view like that. :classic: Expect new neighbors, I'm moving.

I think the first place quoted you 10k because they are actually going to do more work. Disassemble and strip, then do the required sheet metal, and paint. Then reassemble. They might also have included rebuilding or re-chroming some of the body parts. ?????? Your friends quote for 3k would be pretty high if the only thing he did was weld in patches over the rust, mask off all the lights, moldings, etc.. then paint around everything. ????? Either way, find out what they are going to do exactly. Do it once and do it right. I guarantee you if you get the Earl Sheib (sp) special you will be paying all that money again in 2-3 years. Don't get in a hurry. Talk to more people, and if you have the room you can do a lot of the prep work yourself.

Hi, hope I got what you need. The distance between the two bolts that go from the mount to the diff is 90 mm. Distance from the center bolt is 18 mm. And from the mounting hole to the begining of the hump is 50 mm. And from the mounting hole to the end of the hump is 145 mm. If you need anything else let me know and I can go measure.

Looks like a real nice car. If it has been restored like he said then it should be well worth it. Maybe even a bargain. Wondering about the leather seats he mentions. Too bad it's not closer other wise I'd be tempted to go see it with you. Good luck on getting her! Ported engine means he had the intake and exhaust runners on the head cleaned up for more efficient air flow. This is mainly for performance gains.

Sorry to hear that. Too bad your not up here in the Falls, I would recommend my body shop. I know what it feels like to not have your car, I haven't had my car for 3 months. She should be done in 2-3 weeks though. Good luck. FWIW when I was looking for a shop I tried to find a shop that painted classic and custom cars. Not a collision shop.

I bet you a buck you still have the original flat top carburators. My 73 had the exact same problem. The colder it got the longer it took to start. But once it got warmed up it worked like a champ. Unfortunately I can not tell you how to fix it. Don't get discouraged, there are some mechanics out there that know how to work on these carbs. Where? California I think. Sorry. I fixed mine by swapping out the flat top carbs and installing round top carbs from a 71 (probably not what you wanted to hear). Hopefully someone here can give you better advice. If not start looking for some early round top carbs or a mechanic WITH experiance. Don't pay some mechanic to "figure it out".

Usually a bad diff will make a whining, purring, humming kind of noise. To me it sounds like you might have a bad wheel bearing. If you can, have an assistant go for a ride with you. He/she can put their ear down on the shock towers and they should be able to hear if one side is louder than the other. If it is the bearings I would suggest you read up on the procedure before you tackle this laborious task. It's not hard, but I guarantee that if you go to pull the spindle pins your going to ask yourself "what did I get myself into". On second thought you might as well rebuild the entire assembly. (Do it once and do it right.) There are several posts on stubborn spindle pins and a couple of members have spindle pin pullers that I would HIGHLY suggest you use. Let us know what you find and we'll be more than glad to give you advice. There are quite a few of us here that have been there, done that. Good luck

I've got all the under dash vent hoses on my parts car. If you could be a little more specific as to which one you need I can pull it for you. From memory: There is one from the blower to the heater core box thingy, this one is square. Then from the heater core there are five, two lower one's that go to the outside round vents on the dash. Two that go up to the defogger. And one that goes out the front to the center console. Not too sure about this though with out looking. Let me know which one you need. Ed

Yea I got that from there web site.

Thanks for the advice, I had some Trestor "paint brush cleaner" (the plastic model kit stuff). Put some on a rag and rubbed it on the overspray. Two hours and a lot of elbow grease later the overspray was gone. And it didn't discolor the plastic! Looks great. Then I set it down next to it's sister to compare and I notice that they are identical. Hmmm, are they the same? Can't be. So I compare it to the beat-up ripped one that I was replacing and it's different! I did the wrong one :stupid:

Thanks Carl, that's good advice. I was eyeballing the "kits" sold by VB and the ones sold on e-bay. The price on those is around $200 bucks. The kit from precision is $487.38. Quite a difference. Haven't bought any yet. I remember the complaints about people not being able to close there door without slamming it. Were those inferior seals?

I've seen them gloss black, satin gloss black, flat black etc... Anyone know the original correct color??

Try either MSA or Victoria British . Some gaskets are available through your local auto parts store.

Who is a supplier of sheet rubber? I was on a quest not too long ago to replace the rubber "gasket" that is on the steering column. I found a 6"x6" square at ACE hardware. Not too many hardware stores carry the stuff.

6' 1" here and I don't even have the seat all the way back. Getting in and out is a different story.