Ed

Don't they call it the "Mach 5"?

Here is a picture of the finished product. It took a while but I'm very happy with the result. I'll take a few to the nationals with me if anyone wants to check them out.

Don, I was in the same boat several years ago when I was rebuilding my SU's. I couldn't find replacement bushings or the shaft. I got a lot of they don't make those anymore. So I went to a couple of machine shops to see about having larger bushings made and machining the shaft. Think about it. In 20 years you will be doing it again because it would wear out again. So I thought about using some bearings. Try finding those. At the end of my quest I ended up going with the rebuilt bodies from Ztherapy. Sealed bearings & stainless shaft you can't beat it. Everything else I rebuilt myself. Ed

Pardon my ignorance but, how many miles would they ride each day? And how many day's total is the entire tour? Or the total miles of the tour and how many day's?

Thank You Jeff, I got it, and now she is running. I finally heard her roar after two and a half years. Yaay..

Oh yea!!!!!!!

My first thought was timing also.

Look behind the blue car. Is that another car? It's yellow.

I need some help wireing my starter solenoid. I think I've got some of the connections wrong. From the solenoid there are two large copper bolts and one spade connector. I can't figure out how to correctly wire the two copper bolts. I need to connect the positive battery cable. The fusable link. And the wire that goes into the starter armature. What goes where?

If I remember correctly the Hayes manual has step by step procedures for this very task.

Those are some pretty good plans. I would however increase the structural integrity of the vertical and horizontal tubes (#1) with a diagonal tube. On mine I had too after I noticed it was starting to sag. Also do a search here in the photo gallery and go to zcar.com and do a search you will find several pictures and plans for rotisseries.

I used a bullet style connector available at any auto parts store. So far it seems to be working fine.

Now, would those corner workers have run out there if it was car racing instead of motorcycle?

Would it be possible to inject some sort of glue into the visor at different locations. Then place the visor on a flat surface, place something flat on top of it and using some weight press the whole thing for a couple of days while the glue cures?

Here she is all put together.

The 73 also had stronger crash bars in the doors. Intermitent wipers, and a lighted center console.

The L24 & the L28 are pretty much direct bolt on's. You will be loosing in the horsepower department and gaining nothing. As far as the fuel injection goes it will depend on the head. There are grooves cut into the intake runner of FI heads. Some will say carbs others FI. It's up to you. Before you do anything check and make sure that the L28 doesn't just need a tune-up. Your going through a lot of trouble swapping engines when all you might need is some new spark plugs and a tune. The tranny's are swappable also. Keep the flywheel, clutch,& pressure plate with the tranny.

Some are available through Victoria British. You might also find one from the guys over at Ztherapy. I guess it depends on which one you need. As a temp solution you could either epoxy the exterior of the cup or JB weld. Good luck

Thanks Will, The color of the panel that is mentioned in another post is from Dupli-color it's a High performance wheel paint. WP-102. This is what I used and was able to give it a dull finish by making the last coat a fine quick mist. She looks goooooood! I'll put up a picture when I get it all together.

Will, Where you marked "grey overspray" is where I have grey overspray on mine. I guess the rest was cleaned off. It does look better matching the panel. Thanks. Edit: One more question, What is the gasket material made out of?

Oh no, I just painted mine to match the panels.

Sorry, wrong cars. Your thinking of Indy cars. And they are pneumatic. Formula 1 has a guy with a jack dolly, one in the front and one at the rear. Back to the subject of theft deterrance. You have to have a system that is convenient. Are you really going to take the steering wheel off when you run into the grocery store to buy a gallon of milk? Or your taking your date to a restaurant, are you going to pop the hood and remove that hot rotor? Even if you do eventually you will forget or think "Oh, I'll only be a minute". Your system should be a secret, convienient, effective and safe. Sorry Enrique, but if someone steals your car and gasses are released in the cab and the driver gets into a car accident, guess who's liable. Like you said, deterrance is the best way. Park in well lit areas, hide that $500 stereo, install an alarm system with the siren in the inside of the car. Always lock up, use a visual theft deterrence system from a flashy light, sticker, The Club, missing steering wheel, dog, etc.. Bottom line is if someone wants your car bad enough they will damage the car trying or they will succeed. Once it's gone there is only one sytem that will return your baby. Lojack. (once again I'm not advertising)

Very nice. Your doing a great job! I noticed you still have your car on the rotisserie. I removed mine from the rotisserie as soon as i got the suspension back on. I was a little worried about the weight maybe warping or bending some of the metal where the rotisserie was attached to the body. Keep up the good work!