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3 Tuning of triples is key to gas smell for you and for those behind you. Most old cars stink from being too rich. Test with a wide band sensor. You should be able set the jets and fuel level to go a bit lean at cruise but be in the rich sweet spot when you are accelerating. Best of both worlds 1 The differential couples to the flat panels of the rear deck and the glass window also reflects sound forward. It is a noisy design. Using soft rubber bushings to decouple the differential helps. I noticed that my all stock 72 with 80,000miles has very little differential noise compared to others I have driven. The low wear and the drive line alignment corrections help reduce noise (compared to 70 and 71). 2 Manual steering is manual steering. The optional ball and socket compression mounts help on bumpy corners. If your compression rod bushings are too tight it also causes a poor feel. If the tension adjustment in the rack is too tight it will make steering stiff. Wide tires also make steering stiff but "rut grabby" too. I liked it when I installed a smaller steering wheel. A loss of mechanical advantage but nicer feel. 4 A quick experiment: Throw pillows and sleeping bags in the back hatch area and see if it makes a difference. A few layers of carpet or thick heavy rubber on the rear deck may help. I also found that the cavity where the muffler resides can couple more noise into the cabin: When I raised the muffler high into the cavity to hide it...wow it was loud in the cabin. Just lowering it a little made a big difference. Some sound proofing bituminous foil may help in this area..... just watch the heat and fire.

Kats, I agree. If the date is March 1970 then it may not be all photos of early cars. It is interesting about the lack of hose clamps in the manual. HLS30-00013 and HLS30-00072 do not have hose clamps either.

HLS30-00058 has the later type HLS30-00059 has the early type HSL30-00452 has the early type

http://obituaries.commercial-news.com/story/Julian-Yudin-2011-718065911 https://casetext.com/case/smith-v-trimmell Source:https://archive.org/stream/chronicle731119unse#page/184/mode/2up

Early 1969 Red Overlap Japan (LHD): USA (San Francisco?) Japan (Studio ...no badges) \ Japan (Studio but fake badges drawn on) Clearly this early Owner's Manual Cover is the red badge-less car above used in the maintenance photos. Japan (Studio not red... prototype maybe?) Not sure about this studio photo Weird bumper Maybe plastic prototype Again a weird bumper and fat tires.

Beverly Hills? HLS30-0008 (white walls) in Beverly Hills Area? HLS30-00008 again (white walls) No white walls on this one. This seems to be HLS30-00004 or 5 (no badges)

I don't think Janet and I will make it but you never know. It would be nice. Be sure to checkout Fredericksburg if you get a chance.

I'm happy you both liked it! I think one of the troubles in identifying the car is "Q3 1969 red overlap" that causes confusion: 1. some early Z promotion used a red car driving in Japan 2. some early Z promotion used a red car driving in the USA (007) 3. the early FSM manuals used a red car in the photos The missing OK sticker helps as all photos of HLS30-00006, 7, & 8 do not seem to have them. It would be nice to identify the location of the nice red photo above that overlooks a bay. Some of the early silver 008 photos seem to be in Beverly Hills. The red one above may be in San Francisco area? Kats, I am glad you asked about the brackets ... some confusion now unfolds: HLS30-00147 has the later bracket: HLS30-00249 has the early bracket:

Same car and photo shoot. HLS30-00007

Hi Kats, Here is another log on the fire: Oct. 1969 Press release and photo (HLS30-00007)

Good point Mr. C! Studs would do the trick with nuts at each end. Put the stud in with it skewed to the front then turn it in enough to have a captive nut on each end.

Maybe use longer bolts and place a captive nut on the back side where they protrude

Basting the pig. Chris, I'm miles from a dipper so I'm planning on doing it myself.... dipping my car hill-billy style at home. I will hook up a treadmill motor to my rotisserie and drip phosphoric acid from an overhead hose. A plastic sheet and frame will collect it on the bottom where it will drain to a reservoir and be pumped back up to the drip line. I'm not sure if it was ever done before but hopefully it will work. It is a bit like how they re-use formaldehyde in medical school on "specimens".

Bruce... I agree... but I use the beep for chasing wires to find the right one in a multi-conductor connector or cut multi-conductor cable or similar. It is priceless for those situations.

I'm in the same boat. $100-$200 each here for chrome. The chrome company takes care of the rust.

Jim is that where your white resto ended up?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sterling-Silver-240Z-Sports-Car-Charm-Lobster-Claw-Clasp-Free-U-S-Shipping-/391641748904?hash=item5b2faad5a8:g:50cAAOSwcUBYQIMf

How it's made. I think measuring tape could be stock.

The extra for plating is worth it. I'll go for two sets. My Z is in storage 130km away so I can not send clip samples. It would be good to have the manufacturer test the first few for correct fit before they whip off 200.

There are only a few things to measure on a Z so a cheap multimeter with resistance, continuity beep, and DC voltage will do most tasks. The problem is that the cheap mm's are usually junk. I would recommend getting a basic Fluke MM. It will be a good investment. I currently have 3 cheapies and a crazy-big Fluke 289 logger that eats batteries. The Fluke also has to "boot" which is no fun to wait for. I will get around to selling it and getting a basic Fluke. My old Innova "car multimeter" died. It's only useful feature was measuring rpms; apart from that it was just a regular multimeter. You may be able to use the frequency feature on some multimeters to measure rpm. For Rpm's I now use a digital timing gun with adjustable advance. Works great.

I'll buy 2 sets if you do a run I only have 1 correct hatch so far lol.

Kats, It looks like the plates for the two cars were later changed from Dealer 2177 to: D60 ACJ D61 ACJ