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qz16

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Everything posted by qz16

  1. So, I found something that fits. The screw is an M5 .8 I do not know the correct length. I happen to find a few 20mm and they appear to work well. Thanks anyway.
  2. Does anyone know what fastener is used to hold the rear view mirror bracket on a 1973 240z? Size and pitch would be great if you know it. If not does anyone know if they are the same bolts as the sun visors. Thanks in advance for your help
  3. I have an MSA 3-2 header with 2 inch tubes. Does anyone have a source for a T304 stainless steel 2-1 merge collector (2.0 inch inlet, 2.5 inch outlet) that will mate with the MSA header. My understanding is that the MSA header mates with the original Datsun merge collector, but I can’t confirm this because I do not know if my current merge collector is original equipment. I realize I can have a muffler shop fabricate a collector but was hoping for a less expensive solution. I found some merge collectors online, vibrant for example but the center to center measurement of the inlet tubes is not the same as the MSA header. The center to center measurement of the MSA is 2.44 inches, while the center to center measurement of the Vibrant collector is 2.125. I am hoping that someone has bought a merge collector that mates to the original s30 exhaust. Thanks for your help.
  4. dutchzcarguy - Thanks for the response.. I will make the packing, appreciate the suggestion. Cantechz and steveJ - thanks as well
  5. okay so, I looked in the garage and the stuff that I was talking about is called butyl tape. I dont think seam sealer would be a good idea because I think it has adhesive. Does anyone know what the original packing was made from?
  6. Thanks for the quick response. Since the part is discontinued, I guess I have 3 options: 1. live without the gasket - probably not a good idea - paint will probably chip 2. get the rubber gaskets that go behind the headlight bucket and modify them 3. make something out of rubber or that flexible sealer used for an RV. I think Wick Humble (How to Restore ....") calls the stuff dumdum. If you have any other suggestions don't hesitate. Anyway, I appreciate the help - thanks. Regards, ron ps - I just remembered what the real name is for dumdum - Its a seam sealer, comes stuck to a sheet in a roll. I have used to seal an AC on a RV roof, seemed to work.
  7. Is there a gasket or seal between the "headlight case" and the front fender? My concern is metal to metal contact.
  8. Perhaps you should consider making one change at a time. The rebuild would be last on my list. Just a thought for what it is worth.
  9. I located a schematic that may interest you. The area of interest is on the right side center page.
  10. I am not sure that I understand your question. My first thought was that you are asking how the seat switch physically mounts under the seat. My recollection is that it is pressed into the seat spring with the movable part of the switch facing upward into the seat. When you sit on the seat your weight depresses the movable part into the switch and the connection is made. Others are answering the electrical side so I will also try to help with that. The original wiring shows two (2) wires on the seat switch, one green and one green with a black trace/stripe. The Green with the black trace is connected to the Passenger (right side) seat belt mechanism. The Green wire coming out of the Passenger seat belt mechanism goes to the Driver (left side) seat belt mechanism. The Green with a black trace wire from the Driver seat belt mechanism ties back to the Green wire on the Passenger seat switch. I don't believe the driver side seat switch is connected. The idea is that if the driver turns the ignition on and is sitting in the seat and he does not have his seat belt extended then the warning lamp and buzzer are activated. If the driver turns the ignition on and a passenger is sitting in the seat, then the first part of the circuit is activated. If his seat belt is not buckled, then the second part of the circuit is activated, and the buzzer and the warning lamp are activated. If the passenger seat belt is fastened, then the second part of the circuit is de-activated, and the warning lamp and buzzer are de-activated. I think there is enough information to troubleshoot the problem. If not don't hesitate to ask more questions. I will also try to locate a schematic that shows the seat belt and seat switch circuit and post it. Last comment - My recollection is that this circuit uses these 3 pin mini connectors. There are only two wires in the connectors and the connectors are keyed so you can't put them in backwards. regards, ron
  11. MY car was not being started regularly as I was in the middle of restoring it. I had heard that there were issues with new fuel pumps. I bought 2 before I finally took a friend's advice. Background: Fuel tank restored Hard and soft fuel lines replaced Carbs restored I filled the fuel bowls, and it would run for a bit I filled the fuel filter and bowls, and it would run A few days after shutdown I noticed that the fuel filter bowl was not full, a few days later it was empty. Would not start, would not fill fuel filter bowl. I was convinced that the pump was not strong enough to pull fuel from the tank to fill all the lines and the fuel filter. As part of troubleshooting, I used a jerry can and short hose to simulate the tank and hard line. Could not pull fuel to fill the filter. There was some information regarding the amount of vacuum created by the pump, so I measured the pumps. Sorry but I forget the results and have lost my notes. An old school method to test a mechanical fuel pump is to put it in a vise and work the arm. If it wheezes it supposedly is more likely that it is ok, if not it is supposedly bad. Solution to my issue: A friend told me to recheck all of the hoses from the fuel filter to the carbs. I did that everything seemed tight. I replaced all of the hoses and this time I used the correct diameter. It was more difficult to connect the right diameter, they seemed overly tight. When this was done, I once again filled the fuel filter and the float bowls. It started and I have not seen the fuel filter bowl empty since, that was 7 or 8 months ago. The car has not been restarted due to other work on it that I am doing. My story is not complete – I never did put the original pump on to prove that it still had life. Bottom line: I am sure there are some bad fuel pumps out there, and I am not saying that you don’t have a bad fuel pump. This is what seemed to solve my problem. It was difficult for to believe it at the time, but as the months went by and the fuel filter remained full other issues became more pressing. The car starts now even after long periods of storage. Hope this helps.
  12. qz16

    door holes

    Mystery solved. SteveJ - your last post caused me to take a picture of the inside of my door. I apologize for wasting everyone's time. In the image below you can clearly see an additional bar (just to the left of the front sash) that has the welded nuts. I guess the bar is welded to the inside of the door. The bolts go thru the outer hinge side of the door and thru the "safety bar" and into the welded nut. Once again, thanks for everyone's assistance. I guess I was guilty of taking you on a "snipe hunt", without meaning to.
  13. qz16

    door holes

    SteveJ - thanks for the effort - really do appreciate it. Okay, so the first picture is the inside of the forward portion of the inner door, the hinge side. If I am understanding correctly this is the area of interest. As SteveJ states you can clearly make out at least 2 of the three welded nuts. There is nothing that I can see that is captured on the inside of the door. The bolt goes through the door and into the welded nut. I do not see a safety bar or anything else captured by the bolt. Also, there is nothing on the free side of the welded nut. Is it possible that the bolts are compressing multiple layers of metal? The outside layer: screw hole layer (my original post view) and an inside layer (welded nut layer). And there is no additional discrete bar. Translation - if you can feel the welded nut and the bolt is installed then you are not missing anything?
  14. qz16

    door holes

    SteveJ, Please don't do that. Its too much trouble and there are too many opportunities to damage your door card. Trust me I have remove the window crank clip enough times to be wary I am sure someone will remember where they saw it and post it. Very nice of you though - thank you.
  15. qz16

    door holes

    Zkars – you have always been helpful in the past – thanks again. SteveJ thanks for the image. I am a little slow so bear with me. If SteveJ’s image is accurate then whatever those three bolts should be holding in place would need to be between the bolt head and the door. I looked at the interior of the door. All I can feel is welded captive nuts. On the other hand, if the bar was internal to the door, then wouldn’t they have put the welded nuts on the exterior of the door and install the bolt from inside the door. I am just guessing so I reserve the right to be wrong. I’ve looked in the manuals that I have and can’t find anything. Is there someplace that you can direct me to for more information? Has anyone seen this part? I know it is a lot of trouble, but can anyone post an image of a safety bar? –Thanks in advance. Is it possible that this was cut-in to production after our car was manufactured? My last thought has to do with a TV show – “Cheers”. The episode had to do with a prank that they pulled on the Doc. (Frasier Crane) – they took him “SNIPE” hunting – a practical joke or fool’s errand. No offense intended, but Jim are you taking me snipe hunting? Appreciate the help. Regards, ron
  16. qz16

    door holes

    We have a 1973 240z. Both Doors have these holes. Does anyone know what they are for? Would appreciate any insight you can offer regarding the three holes between the door hinges. Thanks in advance for your help.
  17. chuck - thanks for the information. Now I understand why they added the extra screws to the 260z/280z. Can't figure out why they thought adhesive was good enough to hold the upper and lower seals on a 240z, and require screws and a metal strip to hold the center of the 260z/280z in place. I think the best thing for me to do is to use the original upper and lower, quarter seals, and then if I don't like the aesthetics to put a weather strip between them held by adhesive, making sure that it is thin enough not to rub against the door sash. Really do appreciate the information - thanks.
  18. heyitsrama - Thanks for the response. I have the 1970-1973 version and you are correct it does not cover much of the area. I did not know that there was an available 260z, 280z version - thank you. It looks like it will cover the length of the front quarter glass frame. Interestingly enough MSA has the following note about the 260-280z version: Note: This weatherstrip can commonly be found installed on 240Z's, although it was never installed from the factory. You will need to locate screws and drill holes in your quarter window frame if you want to add these to your 240Z. I'm not thrilled at the thought of drilling the extra holes into the quarter window frame, and I don't understand why they don't rely on adhesive to hold the seal in place, unless it is so thick that it rubs against the door sash when you close the door. Perhaps you could answer that question - how thick is the weatherstrip, and does it rub when you close your door? Thanks again for the response.
  19. I have a 1973 240z and I am looking for an outlet to purchase the weatherstip that goes on the outside of the quarter glass. This would fit between the Door Sash and the quarter window and be mounted on the quarter window. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
  20. Glad it turned out to be nothing serious. zkars is correct your latch is quite different than my 240z. Sorry to mislead you. I also learned a trick from Zed Head which was worth the price of admission to this thread.
  21. The gaps look pretty good. Before replacing it I would suggest that you soak it in something to see if that resolves the issue. Maybe we are overthinking it. Perhaps it is as simple as just being gummed up or suffering from overspray. Just curious - when you adjusted your striker (on the body side of the door frame) did you ever try rotating it. By this I mean holding its top position (single screw) and pushing the bottom clockwise (toward the door). If you can't move the striker clockwise then push the top screw in towards the interior just a bit. I would also check the wear on the striker. Don't mean to be just creating work for you, but please continue to post your progress. Hope you are able to solve it quickly. regards, ron
  22. One more thing - It's hard to tell but in the first picture it looks like the door is hung with the rear bottom corner a bit low. You might check the entire door frame and the bottom of the door for scratches.
  23. If it isn't too much trouble could you post pictures of the entire door to see all of the gaps. Also, post a picture of the B pillar to see the lock and the dovetail, and the door side of the striker as well. In the past has the door closed properly? If so, has there been any recent work on the door? Have you changed the hinge positions? With you sitting in the car can you determine if anything is making contact and preventing the door from closing? With the weatherstrip removed there should be some space all around the door, including the door bottom. Is the door sash (window frame) hitting the door frame? There is a door seal mounted (with three plastic retainers on the top front of the door, is there contact in this area with the frame?
  24. I Have installed a few windows in British cars and this is my second opportunity with a 240Z. So, I don’t have a tremendous amount of experience, but I think this will provide a bit more detail that may help you. Outlined below is a procedure that worked well for me and I hope will help you. Please feel free to correct/improve the process for the next guy. Door Glass Install Install the outside rear view mirror. I installed insulation and sound deadener. I think this helps with noise and temperature control and it also gives the door a bit of added weight improving the feel of the door. I put white lithium grease on the rollers and channels, and on just about anything else that moved before installing anything. I installed the door locking mechanism, and all of its associated parts exterior door handle, key lock, and interior door handle. I removed the door sash (frame/channel that surrounds the glass) to make it easier. I installed the window regulator. To move the regulator I attached a vise grip to the knurled winder mechanism, be careful not to crush the grooves. At this point my troubles began. From what I read I thought that the front sash (front channel about 12 inches long) and the guide channel were supposed to be installed. I tried installing the glass by reversing what the service manual describes for removing the glass. Tilting it and sliding the front roller into its channel. I wasted hours and lost ½ a pint of blood and got nowhere. When the front roller was in the channel it would come out as I tried to install the rear roller, or the front sash guide. So, I walked away had a cup of coffee and decided to take a look at the entire mechanism. I was alone on this task so it is easy to get worn out hunched, and holding the glass, etc. Here is what I came up with and the glass was installed in less than 30 minutes. The first (6) six steps are valid and was my starting point. The front sash (approximately 12 inch long channel for the plastic slide at the front of the glass) and the guide channel (approximately 4 inch channel mid door toward the door lock) are not installed at this point. I think this would be a good time to remind you that you should install the outside rear view window before going any further. It’s painful to do it after installing the glass, don’t ask how I know that it is painful. Getting the window into the car can be tricky. The manual suggests: front first and down on an angle. If you are concerned about your paint I would protect it with at least a strip of tape on all edges of the door. Watch the outside of the window as it enters the door as there are screws (at the front tip of the window where the slide is located), that can get hung up on the door. The window sits closest to the door skin, in between the skin and the window regulator. At this point I re-installed the window sash with one screw in each or the two top corners. There are 3 rollers. Two of the rollers face the window. One faces the interior of the car. One of the two rollers that face the window will be on your left as you face the interior of the door. The 2nd roller will be on your right. The right most roller is mounted on an arm that has the third roller (facing the interior of the car) attached at the opposite end of the arm. This roller (facing the interior of the car) should be sitting down, toward the bottom of the door, before you try to install either of the other rollers. If it is not in this position it will be more difficult to position it later on because it will get hung up on the regulator and the interior door sheet metal. Seating the regulator rollers into the window channel Wind the regulator almost all the way down. Now slowly wind the regulator up and watch the rear channel, toward the door lock. I believe this step is easier if this roller enters the channel from the right side (nearest to the door hinge) of the channel. When it is close to the regulator roller slide the glass forward or back to allow the roller to enter the channel. Once the roller is in place slide the glass a bit more to insure that the roller stays in the channel. Slowly wind the regulator almost to the bottom of the door. I believe this step is easier if this 2nd roller enters its channel from the left side of the channel, nearest the door lock. Remember the third roller must be lower than the other two rollers. Watch the front channel of the glass. When it is close to the level of the regulator front roller stop and move the glass forward toward the door hinge, make sure you don’t move the glass so much that the first roller comes out of its channel. Push the roller into the channel and slide the glass toward the rear (toward the door lock) to keep the roller in the channel. To move the roller toward the channel you might try pushing down on the opposite side of the arm where the 3rd roller is located. You might also need to grab the glass and move it forward (toward the door hinge) corner up toward the top of the door. Slowly wind the regulator up about half way, when the remaining roller is accessible slide the guide channel on to the roller. Move the guide channel toward its mounting holes to get the guide studs in position. You may need to wind the regulator up or down slightly to get the guide channel studs to their mounting holes in the door. When one is in the hole place a nut on it to insure that it stays put. By winding the window up/down you should be able to manipulate the guide channel’s 2nd stud into its mounting hole. Now from the top (right side facing the door interior) push the front sash down and guide it onto the plastic window slide. Push it down and move the window to the front or rear so you can place the screws through the door and into the front sash. Tighten (finger tight) everything and using the window regulator roll the window up and down. If everything is moving smoothly then tighten everything and bandage any wounds.
  25. To finish off this topic I would like to show you what I did with your assistance. I searched under the dash for any kind of mounting hole, but alas there were none. I suspect that originally there was a bracket that mounted inside the dash and drove the reset cable/spindle vertically downward through the bottom of the dash. I have removed my dash a number of times for various reasons, but have no intention of doing it again unless it is absolutely necessary. This issue does not meet that bar. So, based on your assistance I came up with the following solution. I created a bracket that allowed the spindle to turn freely. The “C” clip at the back prevent the spindle from moving forward in the bracket. The knob, when I find one that fits will prevent the spinde from moving rearward out of the bracket.s The bracket had to be long enough to extend far enough below the dash line so that it would be accessible. The bracket I made is perhaps a bit too small in that it may be difficult to g it is definitely out of the way, and it does reset the trip odometer. So, thank you again, this is one more item on my tick list that is put to bed.
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