Jump to content

qz16

Members
  • Content Count

    102
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by qz16

  1. qz16

    Hatch alignment

    CS, I Think you have a great point about the glass. I have been concerned about the effect of its weight, and form. Also, the hatch frame may benefit (not very likely I suppose) from being locked in place against the weatherstrip. Because the hatch is so much easier to handle without the glass and because the glass is 40+ years old and therefore fragile I wanted to at least get to the point where the hatch would open and close before installing it. I’ve already got the second strut parts ordered. They will be here in a few days. You have helped me a lot in the years that I have been
  2. qz16

    Hatch alignment

    Pictures can be deceiving. It's helpful to know how they were taken, and what the corresponding adjustments were when they were taken. For example it is easy to jump to the conclusion that the hatch extends far beyond the fender. In one of my posts I said: “I do not have the latch hardware installed so the hatch is not shown fully closed.” Because the hatch is not fully closed and because of the angle that the picture was taken the rear edge of the hatch looks far worse than it is in reality. Will it be perfect when I am done – I doubt it. But the hatch rear edge will be close enough to
  3. qz16

    Hatch alignment

    Thank you for your comment.
  4. qz16

    Hatch alignment

    the problem is that there is no more vertical adjustment, using the bolts that hold the hinge to the body. I suppose I could make the adjustment hole larger. do you have a good way to do that or should I just use a drill or a round file?
  5. qz16

    Hatch alignment

    Yes, the hatch just nicks the roof where the tape is. I don't need a lot of clearance at this point but you can see from the other pics of the closed hatch that I need to bring the hatch more toward the front of the car which will likely cause more of a clearance issue. I would like to get the gaps to look good but I am not a perfectionist. And Yes I plead guilty on the paint. It still needs a final buffing. Thanks for the compliment. I love to paint. This is the 2nd car that I have done. My first was a 1974 MGB, that I still have.
  6. qz16

    Hatch alignment

    I am going to have to move the hatch toward the front of the car. More on the right then the left, this i fear will only make the clearance issue worse. I also hope that adding the weight of the glass will not impact the lift of the piston. By inspecting the tabs I gather you mean remove the hatch completely or can i just take the screws out and get one hinge out of the way? I guess I really need to look at both sides of the hatch tab. Thats going to take a bit of time as I will probably need a second set of hands to remove and install the hatch. I will post images of the tabs when I
  7. qz16

    Hatch alignment

    Charles, Good suggestion - thanks for the interest. I took a lot of shots of the hatch, but realized that your starting point and mine may be different. To clarify I am not really concerned at this point with the gaps when the hatch is closed. My first concern is to successfully close the hatch without damaging the paint at the roof line. I did take snaps of the gaps in case I am missing something that they might reveal. I do not have the latch hardware installed so the hatch is not shown fully closed. In this image everything looks fairly good, but as the hatch closes the
  8. qz16

    Hatch alignment

    Thanks to both of you for responding. Charles, The hinges are new, but they have a fair amount of vertical rise. It may not be excessive and I do believe that the hatch may be warped/twisted, so I do not believe that it is the fault of the hinge. With the piston install as possible, but in the middle of the hatch it is just too close to clear the roof. grannyknot, I do not have the long shims but I have used half shims ranging from 1/32 to 6/32 to no avail. the issue is always the same, a couple of 32nds to close to the roof line. When the hatch is closed, with the shi
  9. qz16

    Hatch alignment

    Thanks for responding. No, I had the piston off, while adjusting.
  10. Our project has dragged on way longer than I intended. It is a 1973 240Z that we call "the bucket". The car was completely stripped and has undergone a color change, and there was a fair amount of rust that had to be dealt with, so it should not come as too big a surprise that I am having trouble aligning the hatch. I have new hinges. The 240z had a single (shock absorber) lift support on the left side. The alignment of hatch at the roof line is very close, but I need more clearance to close the hatch without damaging the paint. The problem as I see it is that the hinges have a great dea
  11. Scott, Thanks, yes, i did get a vintage dash. if memory serves me it was $1k or $1100. It is great. Not a scratch on it. Fit and finish was perfect. Everything lined up perfectly. i don't know what they cost now, but it was worth every penny. Highly recommend. Good luck with your 72 Z.
  12. this message is for HappyZ: I have tried to responded to PM, but outlook is claiming that your server is not accepting emails from outlook's server. regards, ron
  13. ET14k - thanks - I'm still in the denial phase where I am hoping without reason that there is someway to prevent the scratch. zkars - like I dont have enough anxiety in my life - right? Having said that - I have thought about the drip rail and the fear of taking a rubber mallet to my paint caused me to work on other parts of the project until I uncovered a solution to the cracking paint syndrome. I thought I was in safe territory until I realized that I had to install the rubber window roller which is pinched on to the same door edge and then I figured out that heaven has given me two c
  14. I know here I go again - worrying about chipping paint. I am in the process of putting a door back on our project. The door is mounted and I just finished installing the window regulator and glass. Across the top of the door there is a piece of molding, chrome on one side fuzzy on the side facing the glass. It is press fitted onto the door edge. Is there some method of protecting the paint while installing the molding? Would applying tape to the edge before fitting the molding over it help? Is there a special tool to spread the molding while applying it to the door? Thanks in adva
  15. So, I really do not have a horse in this race, and I am on thin ice because I am not trained as a mechanical engineer. To re-state the original issue I was concerned about the bare metal lying between the mounting holes pressing into the painted surface and damaging it, thus potentially allowing water to create an issue. It seems to me that this mini system (the handle, bracket, backing plate, pivots and springs ... etc) is strengthened because the bracket, AND its backing plate behind the door skin sandwich the door skin. My backyard logic would suggest that all the forces involved wi
  16. I’m not the most experienced painter, so take that into account when you read this. I am restoring a 1973 240z, changing colors so everything needed to be painted. One thing that I learned is that I am not capable of defining where rust is or is not. I wound up removing undercoating from places that I would have bet would not have rust only to reveal issues that I might have inadvertently covered up if I had not taken the time to remove the original 43 year old covering. I also learned that I could not get away with covering something unless it was completely free of dirt, oil etc. In my
  17. nice to know that I am not the only over-protective wrench in the group. When I removed the door handles I noticed that the bracket had rust on it. There's nothing to prevent it and if it lays on the paint and scratches or chips it could be the perfect opportunity to create a real nightmare. I like putting the rubber over the entire surface of the bracket, drilling holes in the rubber for the studs as that well fill the holes as well. Once again, thanks for responding.
  18. I am in the midst of re-assembly of the bucket a 1973 240z. I just mounted a door and started cleaning up parts to be installed on/in it. Here is a picture of the backside of the exterior door handle. There are 2 square rubber seals that are mounted to the handle to prevent water from entering the interior of the door. I would rate mine at about a 6 out of 10. I think I may have found a place to get some but I am not sure that I want to go to the effort of taking the handle mechanism apart to install them. Any tip/experience would be appreciated. Also, as you are aware the
  19. regarding the black mesh - I had used some sound deadner and removed it and that is just residue.
  20. mepiazza, regarding the hoses. I purchased them from vintage air. Yes they do mount reasonably well on the oval. The ovals have a raised piece of plastic, just a nub, that catches one or more of the steel re-enforcements in the hose. At the vent end it also mates well. I dont recall how it exactly is fastened but it is fairly obvious once you actually start to work with it.
  21. mepiazza, just looked through the thread again and found one of the images that shows the hole that I am speaking about. At the top of the above image is a rectangular silver piece of metal with two for the 4 screws that hold it visible. This covers the hole below the cowl. regards, ron
  22. mepiazza, I think you may be confused. The cowl vent that I am speaking about is not part of the vintage air system. It is the hole for the original 240z system. Fresh air entered the heater/defrost system via the cowl. There is a plate /panel between the hood and the windshield. It cover the windshield wiper motor and arms. Air entered the original heater/defrost system via a square/rectangular hole located on the passenger side. It should be visible if you have your dash out. If you dont seal off this hole - air, leaves debris, rain can enter the cabin. My dash is now installed
  23. Thank you Steve, CanTech Z, and Jim. regards, ron
  24. Can someone confirm which relay is used for the accessories on a 1973 240z. The wiring diagram that I have been using shows 3 blue wires. The 73 service manual shows the accessory relay harness as a 3 pin harness with 3 blue wires. One of my relays has 3 wires, it is of course bad. Its part number is 25230 89914. Internet search indicates that this is for the intermittent wipers. I have upgraded my wipers and no longer use the original relay. I have a relay available that I believe is part number 25230 89924. I think this is a headlight relay. I probably could use this in place of th
  25. Patcon - As you know 3mm screws are fairly small. Just wanted to let you know that you were right. I could not locate wide enough pan head screws with a phillips head. But screwing a lot of small screws with an allen head wrench, sometimes in the blind, sometimes upside down is not a lot of fun. And the mere thought of doing it more than once drove me to use pan head phillips, still with a washer. Much easier to locate a hole with a magnetic tip phillips screwdriver and fiddle with an allen head. Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.