mwz

The N42 was the 75-76 head The N47 was the 77-78 head. I'd stay away from the N47 head, IMO. They have a tendency to crack, and they're not that great for performance. It's hard to find one that's not cracked Chloe

I'll second that! Is "dot 3" even available anymore? From what I understand, "dot 4" replaced "dot 3".

This is a fun thread. I'll try to dig up a picture...we'll see. I don't know if I have a current one (besides the one Steve posted ), and I am NOT posting my driver's license :devious: I'll work on it. I'm sure this will still be carrying on in a few days when I catch up. Stay tuned.

Just when I hadn't yet lived down the "tulip" thread... Suicidal Tendencies lyrics?

If I remember correctly, at least one of them supplies and cuts the vacuum supply to the vacuum valve for the heater core. When that vacuum valve under the dash has no vacuum, you have no heat.

Larry, I have a new OEM 240Z center. E-mail me if you are interested. Thanks, Chloe

I'm not positive, but I believe if all you removed was the FI wiring harness, you should be OK distributor-wise, electronically anyway. The 'ignition control' unit is on the passenger's side, above the kick panel. It has 5 or 6 wires attached to it, screwed on with ring connectors under a white plastic cover. That's how it is for '76 and '77, anyway.

I wouldn't suspect a short. Check the simple stuff first. Make sure the battery is fully charged and the battery cable connections are nice and clean, and tight. Then try it again. There can be enough there to power the radio (like you said) but not enough for the big loads like headlights, and more importantly the starter:ermm:

This info at zhome.com explains it better than I can... http://zhome.com/History/1970or1971.html The later 17 digit VIN numbers tell you all kinds of info like trim color, options, etc but those early "short" vin numbers tell you nothing but the car's serial number, left/right hand drive and body style.

CaptnKrunch already mentioned this, but I couldn't stop laughing when I read: I sold this Datsun once before but the guy left it here. That is classic!! Lance still has my full support on it though. I know I've had similar "diamonds" in my collection before, seriously! :cross-eye For a dollar, I'd go for it.

It finally hit me...that's the pic from the Dashboard Restorations home page. Check it out... http://www.dashboardrestorations.com.au Ok, actually the full sized image is HERE

I was a little stumped by his description too. It looks like he did a little photoshopping on that picture. I wonder if he "flipped" the image and doesn't realize that it now looks like a RHD dash :stupid: :stupid: That's a stretch, but stranger things have happened on ebay

You're right, and then there is a pin that secures to the clutch pedal assembly. You'll need to stand on your head to see this under the dash. Personally, IMO unless you replaced the MC I don't think it's necessary to remove it and bench bleed it. It all sounds quite normal to me (that you replaced the slave and now pumping the pedal shows no "action" at the slave). It will take quite a few pumps and some time spent bleeding the air out before the slave will start acutally moving. Air will not let the slave piston move, you'll need to get the air out by bleeding (the conventional way should work). Hope it helps. Chloe

I think it must be THIS ONE **don't click if you're easily offended by...etc etc** How did I get mixed up in this anyway? :cross-eye

Tulip??

Hi, This is the information that I have... 300ZX 84-86 MT & A/T (3.700) (R200) 300ZX 84-86 Turbo MT & A/T (3.54) (R200) 300ZX 87-89 MT & A/T (3.900) (R200) 300ZX 87-89 Turbo MT & A/T (3.70) (R200) Note Turbo's: 1) After 4/87-89 only (3.70) Clutch type LSD 2) 88 All white SS used a (3.70) Viscous Coupling LSD 3) LSD units came with finned rear covers So, according to this the one you found would be a 3.54 R200 non-lsd. Whether or not it's an easy swap, I'm not sure. Maybe others that have done the swap can advise on that. Chloe

That's the first thing that came to mind when I read the original post. And the first 240Z that came to mind is the one at www.ratsun.com... but it's just like what Inf said...502 Chevy, etc...I imagine there's probably faster ones, though.

What color is the interior? Anything worth mentioning? I'd be interested in some odds and ends. Thanks, Chloe

Excellent, thanks. That would take the pressure off of 2Many Chloe

Keith, Thanks for the picture. Is that little gem for sale? :classic: Chloe

Useless, but authentic ...It's all my fault...I am looking for one.

My first instinct would be a bulb. But with the smoke you mentioned, I don't know. That's not my area of specialty, though... so someone please chime in... No, unfortunately. From memory, each year has a slightly different headlight switch and there are 2 different turn switches (70-71 and 72-73).

I have 3 of those, and if I tried I could probably find a fourth one around here somwhere...but I'm in Kansas, not North Texas...sorry. Let me know if you're interested in them, though. Mine aren't painted like the ones in the picture, but I think they're in good shape. Chloe

I would suggest taking another look at the distributor and the ignition module...I'm no expert on the ZX's but the symtom suggests that (distributor), and it's a common problem. Good luck. Chloe

From your other post I would guess that you're talking about your '83 ZX? Does it restart after sitting for awhile? How long? Chloe