mwz

This info at zhome.com explains it better than I can... http://zhome.com/History/1970or1971.html The later 17 digit VIN numbers tell you all kinds of info like trim color, options, etc but those early "short" vin numbers tell you nothing but the car's serial number, left/right hand drive and body style.

CaptnKrunch already mentioned this, but I couldn't stop laughing when I read: I sold this Datsun once before but the guy left it here. That is classic!! Lance still has my full support on it though. I know I've had similar "diamonds" in my collection before, seriously! :cross-eye For a dollar, I'd go for it.

It finally hit me...that's the pic from the Dashboard Restorations home page. Check it out... http://www.dashboardrestorations.com.au Ok, actually the full sized image is HERE

I was a little stumped by his description too. It looks like he did a little photoshopping on that picture. I wonder if he "flipped" the image and doesn't realize that it now looks like a RHD dash :stupid: :stupid: That's a stretch, but stranger things have happened on ebay

You're right, and then there is a pin that secures to the clutch pedal assembly. You'll need to stand on your head to see this under the dash. Personally, IMO unless you replaced the MC I don't think it's necessary to remove it and bench bleed it. It all sounds quite normal to me (that you replaced the slave and now pumping the pedal shows no "action" at the slave). It will take quite a few pumps and some time spent bleeding the air out before the slave will start acutally moving. Air will not let the slave piston move, you'll need to get the air out by bleeding (the conventional way should work). Hope it helps. Chloe

I think it must be THIS ONE **don't click if you're easily offended by...etc etc** How did I get mixed up in this anyway? :cross-eye

Tulip??

Hi, This is the information that I have... 300ZX 84-86 MT & A/T (3.700) (R200) 300ZX 84-86 Turbo MT & A/T (3.54) (R200) 300ZX 87-89 MT & A/T (3.900) (R200) 300ZX 87-89 Turbo MT & A/T (3.70) (R200) Note Turbo's: 1) After 4/87-89 only (3.70) Clutch type LSD 2) 88 All white SS used a (3.70) Viscous Coupling LSD 3) LSD units came with finned rear covers So, according to this the one you found would be a 3.54 R200 non-lsd. Whether or not it's an easy swap, I'm not sure. Maybe others that have done the swap can advise on that. Chloe

That's the first thing that came to mind when I read the original post. And the first 240Z that came to mind is the one at www.ratsun.com... but it's just like what Inf said...502 Chevy, etc...I imagine there's probably faster ones, though.

My first instinct would be a bulb. But with the smoke you mentioned, I don't know. That's not my area of specialty, though... so someone please chime in... No, unfortunately. From memory, each year has a slightly different headlight switch and there are 2 different turn switches (70-71 and 72-73).

I would suggest taking another look at the distributor and the ignition module...I'm no expert on the ZX's but the symtom suggests that (distributor), and it's a common problem. Good luck. Chloe

From your other post I would guess that you're talking about your '83 ZX? Does it restart after sitting for awhile? How long? Chloe

Hello, Have you looked behind the rear right-hand interior plastic trim panel? The panel that is directly behind the door. I think it's a blue relay, and you can't really see it until the panel is off. Just a thought. I remember that from another 300ZX but I don't recall what year. Chloe

Was it maybe this page? http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6212/diffswap/diffswap.htm

Divide the first number by the second number. So, if it says 39/11, that's 39 divided by 11, or 3.545.

I doubt it very much. Never tried it, but generally pre and post '78 don't mix too well (in more ways than one, it seems :devious: ) . Things like the ecu and AFM can be pretty particular, even down to the specific year...and especially turbo/non-turbo, etc. I would suggest one from an '80 if that's what you have. Chloe

Steve, I have a space saver spare that fits in that compartment....$25 plus shipping. E-mail me if you are interested. Shipping to Florida would be about $12. Thanks, Chloe

As much as I (we? ) would like to help, the forums here are more geared toward the 70-78 Z's. You might try the 90-96 forum at zcar.com. Someone will probably be able to help you there. Chances are, if you're trying to say that only your oil gauge (not the other gauges) are inoperative, then I would say it's probably not a fuse issue. Good luck :classic: Chloe

My latest scare was just a few weeks ago. The 240Z was on 4 stands nicely, and the differential, rear struts and decklid were off the car. Problem was the engine and tranny were still in it. Oh, lets pull that full size spare tire/rim out of the back...it tipped forwards instantly. The missing spare tire upset the balance. Whoops! :stupid: Needless to say, now I take a close look at things as I remove heavy parts from one end or the other!

Victor, This may sound odd, but I had a very similar problem on a Nissan pickup and it turned out that the alternator output was low. I can't recall the specifics :stupid: but it was a charging system issue. Good luck. Chloe

Tomohawk - I can't speak about other makes, but newer (95 or so up to present) Nissans have a rectangular charcoal canister. It's about 11"x8"x3" and it's mounted near the gas tank in the rear. It's a much different set up though, with valves and solenoids to control the system. The other ones up to that point have the same old canister that our Z's have. Mike - WishN is right about the filter. I've never really heard of doing much else to one of those. The ones on newer cars are plagued with all sorts of issues that cause those annoying "check engine" lights but I've never encountered a problem on an older Z. Basically, if and when it's "bad", it goes in the trash.

I haven't seen the picture, but I have a '76 with some hooks on the rear. They don't look homemade, they look like they belong there. The hooks are for sale :classic: if you're interested.

Not only does Mark have good advice, but his car looks A LOT better than mine, eh? I think the one in my photos almost competes with the yellow one St. Stephen posted pics of last week...not much metal left.

And it's out...

This is probably not the wisest advise (official disclaimer :nervous: ), but if you are talking about a parts car and you have an extra pair of hands, the engine/tranny can come out through the bottom rather than the top. I guess you would need something suitable to put them on underneath to wheel them out (like in the photo). Hopefully the picture is attached...