Dave WM

here it is, the test setup is to eliminate all other variable (fuel rail, pump, lines) and just test the action of the static pressure test. I don't know for sure but I like the idea of the OE style pump have the built in regulation to not go too high, IIRC its 42psi, I doubt its super accurate but still better IMHO than some of the after markets that state they put out 90psi, that is a lot to bleed back. Perhaps the FPR is ok with that, but why chance it? anyway like I said its just my opinion I have no actual long term test to say aftermarket pumps are a problem.

uploading a video now, it will have a test of a BOSCH FPR (says made in germany have no idea of its age, its in a orig box but I could not find any date of manufacture on it). The test was to connect one side to a fuel pressure gauge (the one I have used in the prior videos), one side to a pressure regulated compressed air supply, and then slowly increase the pressure until it begins to bleed off. I was right on the nose at 36 where it began to open. I know this is not a apples to apples test but perhaps if the OP wants to duplicate it as a comparison it may shed some light on at least the function of the FPR.

I was thinking the same thing about the BOSCH being different from 40 yrs ago.

ok well is seems I don't have a clear pick of a static pressure reading (engine off pump on) with the new pump, I will get a new video of that later just to see if there is a difference from the prior video. There are other variables of course, but at least will have a more current reading of pressures.

I just re looked at my video 38psi , not exactly 36psi. I am at sea level. I have not confirmed the calibration of the gauge I am using. My setup runs a tad lean at idle, plugs always look fine, almost lean. look at 1:07 to catch it at engine off, pump on. Gas mileage about 22-24 on the highway at 80mph with a 5 speed (3k for 80). I have NO drivability problems (backfire/after fire/hesitation) completely stock setup with orig injectors/FPR and the OE Nissan pump. I take that back it prob had the aftermarket pump I am going to see if I have another video after the OE pump replacement.

pump output should not matter unless it was way high, so high the FPR can not keep up with it. could just be the new FPR is not the same pressure rating as the OE one. I cant recall if you ever did the return line directly into a bucket (not using the line back to the tank) to make sure it was not blocked or stuffy as Nissan likes to say. The tank can also be an issue even if the line is ok. I have heard of people having issues after pouring sealers into a tank to line it, and not making sure the return is clear inside the tank. I would try process of elimination, you have the new FPR, next would be the return line bucket, and lastly an OE pump. I replaced mine with the expensive OE pump. It had one of those smaller cheaper higher PSI pumps, I just did not like the way I had to wrap a bunch of rubber around it to use the OE mount.

odd how a voltmeter can read 16v with only 11v at the battery (which is now dead and should be replaced, I would not trust one that got that low to be able to recover). Only thing can be is a defective voltmeter, unless you can take it out of the circuit and directly connect it to a known voltage source. Or is the alternator really putting out 16v (internal VR fail) and that is what the meter is reading AND for some reason the B lead from the alternator is somehow not getting back to the battery terminal. I would start by getting a good fresh battery, hooking everything up, get a meter on the battery terminal check voltage there with the car off and the car running. Next with the car running check the voltage at the alternator B lead, compare. Not sure how its wired up but the sense lead would need to be getting the battery voltage on an internal VR so you should confirm what it sees as well.

a way to see if the voltmeter in the car is working is to check the gauge reading and then with a multimeter check the battery at the terminals then compare the two voltages to see if the gauge in the car is accurate. When you say the alternator failed and left you stranded, do you mean the battery was dead? did you check the battery to confirm its status? did you check the alternator to confirm its failure? Maybe some thing as simple as corroded battery terminals.

here in Orlando, I was trying to see if I could combine a family business trip (Columbus Ga) with a side trip and meet some of the folks here from the forum. Running out of time to try and plan it.

I was going to try and be part of the action, but my schedule is very tight with work. I was considering going on the charity guided tour but did not sign up before it was closed out. Not sure about the self guided drive as I really wanted to visit some with the folks here on the group and not sure about if that is a problem (running with the folks that did register). Any way hope to catch up with folks sometime, I still plan to drive up around the Blairsville Ga area on a house hunting trip soon.

It seems to have happened enough to warrant a sticky note!

did you change shift knobs?

a few things to consider, is it gear oil or engine oil, already mentioned but you need to be sure. IF gearbox oil, is it properly filled (not over filled), if its overfilled its likely to exit the vent on the top and find its way down. Is it the correct oil? once that is for sure, then a through cleaning is in order, remove the shift boot and rubber cabin seal so you can see the top of the trans. Make sure all is cleaned up there. Remove the boot that fits on the transmission where the stick shift comes out (the smaller inner boot) See if there is excessive oil there. Clean out as best as you can. replace the trans boot (the small rubber one not the larger rubber cabin seal boot). With everything squeaky clean go drive it a few miles and then come back and carefully inspect. Leaks from shifter linkage, vent, tail shaft seal, speedo drive are all suspect, so you want to catch it before the oil migrates and make it hard to find. As others have mentioned, if the tail shaft bushing is worn too much, then the seal will have a tough time dealing with the excessive movement

it would mask it, but not solve the underlying problem.

installed my new fender badges

when I was in college I would drive my RM250 up a flight of stairs, park it under a raised up bunk bed in the dorm, and pull the fuel tank and put it on the outside window ledge...

The other thing about AC is both 240 and 280 had systems that used R-12, which is harder to get now. The system is sealed so it really should not leak, but lets face it, it will, and then you have to deal with it. R-134 conversion is an option, I have not done that, so you would need to do some research on what is needed. I have heard the biggest problem is the condenser not being up to the task but that is a generalization on conversions. Perhaps not the case with the Z. Also the hardest part to get with a 280z is the expansion valve, NLA so if its lost its charge or for some other reason not working then you will have to search out either an after market evap that fits the stock housing (out there but expensive) or try a used one that has a good expansion valve. My only real beef with the aftermarket AC is I am a bit of a purist and prefer all the controls to work as designed. Most of the aftermarket AC units delete the venting function from the blower motor which is not how the orig worked. I would be nice if the aftermarket was functionally the same and could use all the same controls, but have not seen that. As others have mentioned, best thing is to find one that has the least amount of rust, unless you are skilled at body work.

If you want good AC then you 280z is better, the 240z used a system with the evap that is ahead of the blower motor, where the 280 put the evap right behind the vents after the motor, and had better ducting. As far as aftermarket kits I will say it again, a LOT of fabrication. this guy did a video on it. Vintage air unit

Mainly stuff like OE head lights, or orig stereos that don't require lots of extra current. On mine I ended up bumping up the idle with the AC idle up servo so I can get about 1.1k with the AC on. That is just about enough to keep from discharging (per the amp meter) the battery. You can still hear the fan slow down in the blower motor some. Once I get moving all is well again. This is with the stock alt and the mechanical VR. I have not checked but with out the bump up of rpm, with everything on at idle, there is prob about a 5amp discharge (based loosely on the in dash amp meter reading).

do you want AC? if so the 280z has a much improved setup over the 240z. retro fit kits are sold to install in a non AC car, but be warned there is a LOT of fabrication to be done if you go that route. 280zx 5 speed will bolt right up to a 280z 4 speed. the later 280zx think from 81 on have a much taller 5th (.75 iirc) that when coupled with the stock 3.54 rear end will get you 80mph at about 3k rpm. Its really too tall unless you have no hills to chug up. You cant really use it until you are at about 70mph else you risk lugging the engine. a 3.7 or 3.9 is a better fit. Frankly the 4 speed is fine unless you plan to do some hiway speed driving. 70 is 3.5k with the stock setup. The 280z comes with fuel injection, which I prefer to carbs. This is the stock setup and works very well once sorted out. the biggest problem is corrosion on the connecting wires to the sensors and the sensors themselves. Also the FI has frequently been hacked by folks not really knowing what they are doing which can add to the sorting out process. If everything is there and hooked up, its a good chance the only issue will be to clean up wire connections and grounds and maybe replace temp sensor to get it running well. Rust also happens in the fuel tanks and lines, so that is something that should be looked into to make sure you get a good fuel supply. The only other weak point I can think of it the somewhat weak stock charging system. If you sit in traffic a lot with the AC on max, at night with the headlights on, you may notice the voltage drop to less than ideal. Alternator swaps are common, but not really needed if you are actually driving the car (not sitting in traffic idling), since the charging system is fine once you get above about 1.5k rpm. all of the above comments relate to a unmodified car.

sounds like its back firing? for the record my stock setup never backfires. Not sure what causes that, but was under the assumption that FI cars should not. I tried to find out by mr google, some said its a lean mix not igniting until got into the exhaust, some said its a rich mix not completely burning until the exhaust, others claimed all cars backfire unless they are de tuned, and a LOT of votes for it sounds cool. I remember it sounding cool when I would shut off the ignition with the key, wait a few seconds, then turn back on for a nice BOOM. real cool until I blew up my parents muffler, then not so cool. I am old now and prefer to not hear loud exhaust, at least not for extended trips. One last opinion was its the nature of the type of exhaust. I love google...

could feed up some solid copper up the boot, exposed wire could then be grounded to kill the spark. I can't imagine it NOT having a power balance problem though. from the look of those plugs I would think it would idle terribly.

power testing idea is 1st thing to check. pull one plug at a time, and see effect on idle. Please video while doing so we can all get a good chuckle and the zapping received. Or get some of those long purpose designed pullers that lets you grab the plug cable at the spark plug and pull with out the risk of getting zapped. The problem with trying to diagnose over the internet is you always miss some crucial piece of the puzzle that the OP is just not relaying. The power test is the most obvious starting point, and perhaps it has been done, but if it was you would think there would be a huge imbalance just by looking at those plugs. what is thought to be loping due to a cam could really be loping due to a complete misfire. I have seen cars that sound like crap and the owner thinks its supposed to sound that way. So agree with capt O, I suspect the problem is not with the black plugs but the super clean ones not firing at all. the black is a result of trying to compensate for 4 others that are not working at all.

regarding the color tune (clear plug). Have used one, you can slow down the video and really see what is going on.

how about air leaks at the intake manifold? clean plugs have leaks. this is assuming there are both rich and lean readings coming from plugs fed by the same carburetor.