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Dave WM

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Everything posted by Dave WM

  1. ah, nutcracker days, would love to have one of those back now...
  2. heath kits and radio shack p box kits were a lot of fun, I mostly built the P box stuff. The heath kits were clearly more advanced stuff.
  3. so you think it can be interchanged with a stock 75 ECU? vs a ZX ECU? Just relocate the wire harness and install a dry? the reason I ask is the dry sound like it may be more reliable than the one that is exposed to coolant.
  4. is that head port you have the coolant sensor installed in actually in the coolant? on my MN47 that is in the same place its not in the flow, just a threaded hole in the head.
  5. make sure you are using the timing light correctly. some have provisions for setting the timing on the gun and then you just aim for 0 on the pointer while adjusting the dizzy.
  6. I thought I read that same thing about the flow rate in the FSM. its got to be somewhere if we both remember the same procedure.
  7. a lot of running issues can be traced back to fuel issues (including running out of gas like I did before getting the gauge calibrated). things to be aware of re fuel: gas gauge accurate (don't run out of gass). tank rust can be a big problem Hard line rust again can be a big problem. Turning left when low on gas (for me anyway) will slosh the gas away from the non existent pickup sock (removed when tank was renewed) causing fuel starvation and misfires heat induced hard restarts (hot weather esp). if this happens floor the throttle while cranking (see the owners manual). regarding the pump, I like OE stuff just cause i trust it. You can get OE pumps for about 250-300$ vs 75ish for cheap pumps. Its up to you if you think the price diff is too much, but I just like the fitment and the built in regulation. Thing about pump is if it fails you are dead in the water. I take a LOT of long trips so I opted for the OE thinking why not, AND i carry a spare (the aftermarket that was on it). IIRC the stock pump keeps the fuel pressure at no more than 60psi, so my thinking is if there is a regulation issue there will be less of a possible over pressure as after markets can go a lot higher (at least that is what the specs say). You may want to install a pre filter (a filter in front of the pump). If you go this route you should look for a filter that is so designed, most filters are for after the pump. You really want a very low restriction filter that will not make the pump work too hard. I had a restrictive filter installed and the pump made a lot of noise. I went to a large, low restriction filter designed for this purpose and the noise went away. Finding a good tank is hard as most have rust and will often have pin hole leaks after "cleaning" (acid). I paid to have mine cut open and sealed after sand blasting. seems ok so far, but I would prefer a new tank, which IIRC are being made in the UK of all S30 styles.
  8. you should read the FSM fuel section. It explains how the entire fuel injection system works, including the fuel pressure. You should get a vacuum gage to confirm the fuel pressure reading with the engine running. most see about 29-30 psi at idle, you may have more vacuum than typical (16-20 inHg), or you may have a fuel delivery problem 36-38 is more normal engine off pump on.
  9. I have read that excessive carbon build up on the tops of pistons can increase readings when doing compression test. I like to do a leak down test as well. this will let you know the health of the rings and valves. another good test is a vacuum test, I think all of these things help with getting a picture of the overall condition of an engine.
  10. nice work! that would be great if it works out for all those searching for a good expansion valve. Looking forward to progress report.
  11. not sure what is going on with the gas station filling up. I presume its some kind of fuel cell? If that is the case are there any other modifications? if there are help will be limited to statements like "have you got spark" etc... Typically you should start by reading the factory service manuals. These cars have a very simple fuel injection system, as well as ignition system (by modern car standards). what they don't have is OBD so you have to follow a procedure using test equipment like a volt ohm meter (aka digital multimeter) even a test light will check a lot of stuff. Saying you tried everything is not much help, exactly what did you try? Lets start with the basics it worked somewhat until you did something, can you undo what you did and try again? assuming it never worked, you should start with a compression test, then check the timing (spark and valve), are the spark plugs actually firing in the correct order, are you getting fuel to the injectors, is the fuel pressure correct, are the injectors clicking are the passing fuel when clicking... again you should read the FSM until you know it very well, then follow the checks, this is the best way to resolve the issues. The only thing not really covered is age related problems so make sure the ground connections are good and the wire harness is free of corrosion, those can give readings that are hard to figure out when doing the checks.
  12. fyi, that pic of the liquid is in the same place the coolant would accumulate on mine when the front cover was leaking around where weep slot was located. this slot goes to a channel in the front cover that goes around the coolant flow passages between the block and front cover. Not saying these has ANY thing to do with you running issues, just an observation.
  13. IIRC yes but can't swear on it. You will prob have to add a new speaker wire, unless yours came with it already in the wire harness. Its not hard, you fish it along the main body harness, I used some guide tube to get it where I wanted. there is a later video that covers that.
  14. Or there is something else that went wrong at the same time, I don't like to assume. I think a model year would be helpful.
  15. the assumption is you have a ammeter with an internal shunt. Later models like my 75 used as external shunt, in which case no need for an ammeter connection to complete the circuit.
  16. you can remove the front cover without removing head. as mentioned drop the front of the pan about 1/8 inch. if you want to inspect the bottom of the tensioner then removing the front cover is best. Make sure you get a good seal around the water passages. permatex aviation sealant. also you want good clean surfaces when reinstalling. lasty use a thread sealant on the water pump long bolts.
  17. I tip on oil pump, don't remove the spindle, just remove the dizzy so you can grab the top of the spindle with something (dont go beast mode on this, you dont want to damage just keep in from dropping). then unbolt and remove the pump. install by looking rotating the pump drive so it can line up with the spindle that is still in the engine.
  18. did you completely disconnect the alt? that is both the large cable to the positive terminal as well as the two prong plug? as aready mentioned I wonder if you are mixing a internally regulated alt with a external VR, that would not be a good idea.
  19. clutches and flywheels can get complicated. you have the 225 and 240 mm versions, the smaller IIRC had 6 bolt holes for the pressure plate, the larger (2+2 and ZX) has nine holes so you have to have a matching flywheel and pressure plate. Next up is the throw out bearing, there are 3 diff lengths IIRC, not sure which goes where but you want it right so the pressure plate fingers are depressed correctly when you disengage the clutch. I am not even sure the pressure plates are the same within the 225 and 240 sizes, that is some may be taller than others.
  20. Its SO much nicer with a working A/C. I took mine out for my weekly trip to the park, 98f 70% humidity. If I did not have A/C the car would have never left the garage. With the OD 5 speed, A/C, and the new rad, I can cruize 70-75 at about 2.7k, windows up so I can hear the stereo, enjoy the ride. its a 35 mile trip on way to the park, the temp gauge never moved of the middle of the E in TEMP.
  21. congrats! yes there should be a hole for the condensate hose.
  22. yes. IIRC about 30$ shipping so about 100$ total. the casting was a bit rougher overall but it functionally I am sure it would be fine. I have video of it somewhere.
  23. you can buy them new from japan. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/13501a8600
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