Dave WM

turbo, just so I can follow along and get inspired to take mine off the run stand and install it in the Z.....

in that 240z pic you also see a big piece of carpet in the passenger footwell under the dash, I presume there to hide all the hoses etc...

I would take the time to check out the air handler. You want to make sure the heater core is not leaking, and all the actuators are working as they should. there are some that are just cable activated some that are vacuum line operated. I would start by just trying it out and see what happens, dont worry about getting cold air just check the air flows. IF all you get is frost mode (air thru top of dash) then I am pretty sure you have lost vacuum (defrost IIRC is the default mode). If that happens check you vacuum source 1st. that is the plastic bottle near the carbon cansister. You may find broken or just disconnected vacuum lines, as they tend to become loose over time. There is also a one way valve that can malfunction. So 1st off is to make sure you are getting vacuum to the system, there is a vacuum line that runs from the intake, to the one way valve then to the bottle. From there IIRC there are some solinoids that are connected (back half of engine bay right side)and a line that goes with an electrical harness thru the firewall. Inside is a vacuum multiposistion switch that directs the vacuum to various places based on the position of the selector lever. there are two large vacuum power actuators. One of which is a two posistion actuator (goes from zero to 1/2 to full, two supply nipples for vacuum). I suspect the lines in the cabin will be ok as they are protected from heat. Anyway if you can get the heat working and if you can redirect air using the levers, then I would make an effort to try to just use that, it works pretty well and will get you up and running with just the under the hood stuff to tackle. the evap "may" be ok I have some videos out there with me testing the TVX, but if it was me I would check to see if the compressor is not locked up, and see if it can pull a vacuum and hold it. If so replace the drier (you may need to bend the hard lines depending on if it has the unicore drier), pull a vacuum and charge it with some R12. Its up to you to find someone that can do the R12.. If it does not hold vacuum try a pressure test, I used nitrogen at about 80 psi, see if it hold pressure, if not spray some soapy water all over the hoses and connection under the hood, look for bubble, fix that and try again. My old swp makes a racket but has working after 8 years with no refills so you may get lucky like I did. My only leak was the condenser, I found a NOS one and bee good since.

if you can source a new OE fitment evaporator and it the rest of the stuff is in good shape (switches, solinoids, idle up, vacuum actuators) that is if the only thing that is NOT working is the evap getting cold, then trying to go full stock would be less work. Pretty sure new evaps with current style TVX are out there, just take some looking. They fit into the evap housing, so as long as the air handling part is functional you are almost there. The under the hood stuff is easy, you can source a new compressor with an aftermarket style mount, this will take some fabrication, or if you can source a swp123 type compressor, then you can use that with the OE compressor mount. Hard lines should be ok, new drier of course, but as I said the under the hood stuff is pretty generic. Its all in the air handling and under the dash that makes it hard. IF you decide to go with all new non OE air handling then be prepared for some serious fabrication. I have not seen too many in depth documented installation of the under the dash stuff. You have control layout, vents, wiring, heating to work out. The biggest down side I have on the non OE is the lack of a proper outside vent hook up from the cowl vent. All the aftermarket air handlers seem to have you just seal that up and just recirc the air. I suppose its not that big of a deal, but I like the option on cool days to run fresh air thru the dash vents.

interesting, not a factory evaporator, looks larger, maybe it cooled better? But then again the larger part was out of the air flow and looks like only two rows iirc, factory was 3 maybe 4. Looking forward to see what you come up with. My 2 cents would be some way of pushing more air thru the ducts, in addition to cooling from the evap.

hmm I bet there are a lot of 350 and 370's that end up going if for no other reason than the heat.

I just installed the Excedy 240mm (6030) kit. I reused the collar that was in there with the autozone 225mm (looks like the pressure plate in the above pic). The pressure plate was quite a bit thicker than the one that came out. It all worked out fine, I will get some measurements on another collar that I have, that was very close to the one that I ended up using. It looks taller than the one in the pic above. The Excedy seem to be a touch lighter in feal, and much smoother than what came out. I used to get a tiny bit of chatter if I did not feather the clutch just right when starting off from a dead stop at low rpm's. The 240mm Excedy has no hint of this. I also check the pilot bush with the alignment tool, the old one had a lot of play, so I pulled and installed the new bush. It was so tight on the tool that I could not extract the tool with the pull ring, I had to use pliers to pull it out. Took two tries (removed and reset the pressure plate with the alignment tool pressed in more fully) to seat the bell housing. I used guide two pins, trans in gear so I can turn the output shaft, a trans jack, and still it was a bear.... I did check the input shaft thickness with a micrometer to the alignment tool just to make sure it would fit, it was a hair thinner so I know it would fit the bush. While in there I replaced the rear main seal, as it was leaking there.

Reckon I can make that one in my own backyard!

I had a spare clutch sleeve, think it was from a ZX, anyway with it sitting on top of the pressure plate fingers its about 105mm from the flange of the pressure plate to the very end of the throw out assembly (with old bearing sitting on the fingers). Its about 10mm from the end of the assembly to the point of contact where the fork rides. So overall about 95mm from the flywheel to the clutch fork. Somewhere around I think i saw 92mm as what this dimension should be. I will check it against the old one when I get it out to be sure. The quality of the excedy is so much better than the kit I got from auto zone years ago. the PP fit to the dowels pefectly and I like the made in japan bearing it came with (Koyo).

oil consumption issue seems to be fixed. I switched to 10/30 VR1 since my oil seemed to be all ways stuck at about 60psi indicated (like it was in bypass all the time) Since going to the lighter oil it looks more normal (maxed at 60psi cold, but will vary with the RPM when warmed up. I had been running 20/50 and or 15/40 with the old oil burner. checked compression warm, all about 185 (throttle closed). This is with dished pistons and the head off a 84 maxima. I would have an occasional miss, I think it was injector harness related, I replaced all the plugs at the injectors, seems to have fixed the intermittent miss. The old ones were pretty beat up, and I noticed some of the contacts had partially retracted from the plastic housing. For replacement I used the kind with the integrated push to release spring. I did not want to pig tail to the old harness so I just cut the off right at the old connector and crimped on new hardware. the tiny loss of length was immaterial. But now I have what looks like a rear main seal leak, Guess it could be the pan but it seems to be coming out of the weep hole of the bell housing. So the plan is to replace the pilot bush, along with all the rest of the clutch stuff. I have a spare ZX flywheel so will go with the excedy 6030 240mm kit. I cleaned up the fly wheel some while it was running on the test stand. I sure hope its not the rear main side seals, those are a pita as the pan has to come off. I prob should do the pan and side seal when the trans is off, but I will make that call when I pull the trans. If its clearly the rear main then will just do that. If I see evidence of side seal leakage then will have to escalate to pan off and side seals. looks like it would be much easier to pull the pan when the trans is off. Car is running great, got about 25-26 on a 800 mile round trip to AL a couple weeks ago. Did not notice the oil leak at that time, more reason for me to think its the rear main. I took too many short cuts when doing the swap, I should have just spent the time when the engine was on the stand....

That means you get one burnout instead of two when you dump the clutch.

Glad that helped. That guy in the video can be a real ding bat sometimes. 🙂

BTDT fuse blow on washer

Motor is prob rust/shorted out, excessive current draw, corroded wires, etc... Those motors are not well sealed from the pump. Clean the bullet connectors and get a test lamp like a tail light bulb. if that light up then your supply is fine, next apply voltage from a 9v battery, to the motor, that should spin it. if not then forsure the motor is bad.

IIRC the OE mechanical one did have a screw you can adjust the tension on the relay that duty cycles the field winding between off/mid/full. If it was replaced it may not have the screw for adjustment (most of the mechanical ones I have seen that are after market do not, so not easy to adjust). They also IIRC charge more until fully warmed up (the VR does this). I would not worry about it since most of the time it seems to be working with correct voltages. But since they are cheap you may want to just get a replacement and try it if you are unable to adjust. I keep a spare with me at all times.

no such...

no tweeking other than to lean up the idle air bypass screw which IIRC only effects A/F mix at idle. I have some other AFM's I plan to test out, spares, just to see if they do any different.

there are several, I tried to capture the reading under varied conditions.

got a lot of drive time will post up videos later. All checked out very good. I was impressed by how well it managed the fuel air mix with no feed back.

My early 75 California model had a N42 head, the gas gauge says to use unleaded fuel and the exhaust system has a cat. I wonder if the bronze would have been used on that head? was it generally known that unleaded fuel would be an issue?. should know soon since I pulled the engine with the intent of finding the cause of the excessive oil consumption.

Put a bung on the Z and installed. after warm up idle mix is around 12.5 ish, tried to lean more with the bypass screw but that was as lean as it would go, started at about 11.5 so I was able to bring up some. I did confrim TPS sensor was closed during the idle. Drive around the block test results in mostly 13-13.5 with occasional blips into low 14's, but never sustained above 13's. Will do some highway driving tomorrow just to base line it. I have a few AFM's to try out and see if there is any difference. I am sure at least one has been opened up so I will prob experiment with that one to see if I can get to an optimal lamba reading or a mix of 14.7 while steady cruising. This is a 75 with NO closed loop (no narrow band O2 sensor for the ECU to monitor. I assume without a closed loop capability its prob best to err on the side of rich vs lean. I will get some videos later (or it never happened.....)

A power drill with a small drill bit will eat out the remaining rubber stuck between the ferrule and the barb, that is once you have the line gone down to that part. Just get a bit smaller than the space you are trying to clear, stick it in the rubber and apply power, it will chew up the rubber and make it easy to get out.

My guess based on the FSM mentioning the advance mechanisim and hysteresis is the rubbing block is supposed to counteract the torque applied the the bracket that is supported by the 3 ball bearings that allows the pickup coil to shift when the advance mechanisim is active. That is the magnetic pull of the pickup coil is transfered to the movable mount, and the contactor offsets this pressure in the opposite direction. Anyway just a guess.

just came across this old thread while researching noise from my dizzy. Funny I have a couple dizzy spares some seem like you can feel the notchyness of the contactor other one none, prob just worn nubby thing. I took the noisy one apart, cleaned and lubricated the shaft, reassembled and reset the gaps (reluctor and contactor). still notchy but not noisy like before. I presume the thin layer of grease accounted for most of the noise reduction. Along those lines I noticed a sprial cut in the drive shaft, I presume for moving lubricant around. Not sure if the grease was a good idea. Maybe the intent was to suck up some residual oil that always seems to be in the bottom of the cup where the dizzy bolts on to?

long test ride (70 miles high way speeds) all good, very hot day, no sign of overheating, and very good oil pressure, so going to call it a win (no loss of oil but that is way to little mileage to know if its better now). Time to clean up and get back to working on the turbo wire harness. I have the run stand open, hopefully can get JSM turbo long block on it soon, test run it (will leave the exhaust manifold/turbo on, just run the NA intake and EFI since its all connected up, same with dizzy ang ign module. Only thing that needs to be on the long block for his will be the exhaust. BTW Jeff, heat up those manfold nuts with some mapp gas before trying to remove, may help keep then from breaking. Also Yarb if you want to bring that spare long block over, I can hook it up in prob less than an hour for a test run.