Dave WM

If you have a stock system don't throw away the head pipe, hard to find for a 280z, someone looking to revert back may be in need of one.

are the injectors stock? also how did the remove the valve cover oil cap go, typically at idle it should stumble and maybe die. what's the vacuum reading while idling.

Does is stumble when idling if you remove the valve cover oil cap? any change when removing the dip stick?

I get my fuel clamps from the JY, seems better quality than the stuff sold at local autozone. Its a good idea to check under the hood a lot. I always check when getting gas. leave it running pop the hood look for leaks. turn off, fill up. leave the hood popped while filling, helps with controlling heat soak on hot days.

My 75 does not have any of that stuff as far as seat belt interlocks or emerg switch buttons. Maybe was removed at some point in its life. Just reach in and start it. in gear out of gear, etc... Darwin was consulted as to how to prevent problems.

not what you asked but I like my 185/R75's Speedo is very accurate, looks period correct. If I was doing it again I would get these on the stock steel rims https://www.cokertire.com/tires/175hr14-vredestein-sprint-classic.html

already answered

I will be changing the oil in my test stand engine soon, its seen nothing but short duration test runs so its time anyway, not to mention the dumping of a bunch of test cleaners. Good point about possible harm to oils.

you are going to want to get a factory service manual pronto. will help a lot with diagnosing issues. As mentioned do your lights work (regards of ign switch they should work if the batter is hooked up), same with the horn. do you hear a relay click under the steering wheel when you turn the key to "on" Have you checked the fuse links in the battery cable? A test light is your friend when chasing electrical issues like no start.

The project farm guy cracks me up, been watching him for a while. the boss and I watch him when ever he has a new video. Cracks me up with the pointing out and reading the labels, that and the oil racing. We pick our horse and watch the fun, like going to the Kentucky derby.

Yes I think my better oil use may be a factor of less reving it out. I have purposely been easy on it, most of the time spent around 2500-2700 rpm, shifting at about 3k. Perhaps that is a contributing factor as this is much more sedate than when I 1st got the car and was reving up to 4k at least with every shift. I have been looking at the otc tools for on car fuel injection. may end up with on of those as they seem like a good idea, using injector Kleen and burning just the cleaner. I am in Central florida, but work HQ is our of Chantilly va, although I rarely travel anymore.

only looked at #5, yea it was prob a waste of time and money, boredom gets me in trouble sometimes. My real issue has been oil consumption on my running engine. It seems improved for some reason, I am over 1k miles on last oil change, oil is just now right at the very top of the dip stick hash marks. It was maybe 1/8" above. I presume its a very non linear measurement since the oil pan gets much smaller in volume as you go down, but still 1k and its right at full gives me hope I may get 1500k miles before having to add. I have no external leaks, and nothing in the rad, so I assume its burning the oil in the combustion chamber, not enough to see smoke, but enough to consume. I realize some oil loss is to be expected, I would like to get to my 3k miles oil change with out having to add any oil. Not there yet. I assume the primary suspect would be the oil control rings since I have addressed the valve guide seals. My guess is the oil control rings may be somewhat gummed up or the drain back holes in the pistons could be gummed up. Clearly the correct procedure would be to tear down the engine and inspect, but I am not that bored... yet... oh one more thing, I bought some rotella T4 motor oil for diesel engines, thinking of using that for its detergents to clean, and it still retains the high zinc. So far I have only used VR1 and not sure if it has much detergent in it since its supposed to be a "racing" oil.

Got bored today (that's dangerous for my car" so decided to try something. I bought a 16oz of gumout with pea fuel treatment. I have heard good things about PEA as a detergent that really removes carbon. So on my test stand engine I rigged up a bottle with a feed control valve to the brake port in the intake manifold. Started the engine, well is seems my flow control was not really all that great, as I got a HUGE plume of smoke, lots of black gunk from every orifice of my rigged together muffler on the test stand. the engine ran fine, just hoping I did not get the fire dept called on me. anyway it went thru the 16oz in about 1 minute. stopped smoking. I looked with a bore scope and things did seem cleaner but its really hard to tell. At least I don't think I hurt it. I will not be doing this on my car engine as it has a cat converter and I am sure all that oily gunk would destroy it. That being said I may try this again but with some injector Kleen next time. I suspect there is oil in the treatment bottle that was causing all the smoke.

subject matter experts

hmmm so if you insure a car for say 100k (one of those agreed to value types) and if you have unlimited mileage, what's that going to cost? just curious for those that have these very expensive cars.

not for me, no AC no buy. I presume the premium price is based on the low vin number? Based on that final value if it was fixed, I would be too afraid to drive it.

good to know thx Capt O!

thought experiment requires "there can be only one" (highlander).

The delays in what ZH mentions is an important consideration. can you stand to have you car all torn apart for long periods, not lose stuff, etc... Why I advocate for getting it safe (metal work so it will protect you, then brakes so you can stop, then engine so you don't get stranded. everything else from there is gravey that you can pour on while still enjoying driving it. Personally if my car is down for a week I get sick not being able to drive it. I would only take on a project car IF I had a daily to keep my addiction in check.

Hmm thought experiment, would you prefer a S30 Brand new or this. I no hesitation on my part. I know I know, Dave quit living in the past, this so much better... Still no way I would trade my 75 dat boi for this one. One of the issues is limited garage space, with out that I would be in trouble. So you have to choose. Prob the biggest issue I have with all new cars is I like to wrench on them, and my skills and tools are limited, so I have to have old tech that I can work on. I still think I would go for the MX-5 RF, much truer to the orig idea of a NA inline light weight sporty car like the S30. If I wanted a super car I would prob take a hard look at a corvette.

I would save all your budget for metal work. Regarding "upgrades" (glad you put them in quotes btw), get it running with all the metal work done. Test drive it as is see how you like the ride. That way least when you end doing "upgrades" you will know if they really are. I am sure there are a lot of good products out there, but seems to me unless you really know how to select the right stuff and set it up properly, there is at least the possibility if spending money and down grading the actual performance of the car. These cars were designed to give nice sporty (by 1970's standards which was a pretty low bar) daily driving.

Fashion is a funny thing, folk tale of the emperors new clothes comes to mind.

by comparison to an S30, sorry just don't see it. Going to just have to keep living in the past. My color TV is from 1968 (Zenith), my stereo is 1964 (the Fisher), table radio (playing right now) 1957 General Electric. I am sure this new Z will have fans, good for them, I long for a simple, light, fun to drive GT type car. What would be nice is a Kit car I suppose.

that will not fail.. I generally will put the tires (rims with inflated tires that is)under the frame rails if the jack fails the tires should give me some breathing room

think I will return the 3 ton HF jack stands, they are not part of the recall but what the heck, all this makes me nervous. perhaps can find a quality 6 ton to replace it. not sure how to find one that is well made though.