sblake01

The part numbers are 16578-N4710 for the hose and 31086-20301 for the dipstick. Check with Chloe at http://midwestz.com or check http://www.nismoparts.com. You could also find these at the junkyard but I'd carefully check any hose you might find there.

Once the engine starts or when the engine is warm, the thermotime switch and cold start valve have no affect on performance unless there is a problem with one or both.

The ratios are as follows: 78 (FS5W71B) 1st-3.321, 2nd-2.077, 3rd-1.308, 4th-1.000, 5th-0.864. 82 (FS5W71B) 1st-3.321, 2nd-2.044, 3rd-1.408, 4th-1.000, 5th-0.752. Off the line performance would be about the same though 2nd in the late trans is slightly higher, and third is lower. I really don't notice much difference in second and my car pulls slightly better in third than the stock trans but that fifth gear drops the engine down to a nice low cruising rpm on the freeway and does yield better gas mileage. And added plus is that my stock trans was cast iron and the late trans is aluminum. Anything that saves weight on a 280 is a good thing!

Learned that one in High School. (Many, many years ago!) Try it again. It works with any 7 number combination.

Nothing, I guess. Since the roadster carbs are not 'mirror image' like these, but I thought there weren't enogh intake runners in the picture for a 6 cyl. Maybe L series 4 cyl SSS?

And I think we all know that. I don't ever 'forget my wallet when I run out of my house' and the proof of insurance card is in each vehicle. In California, they don't dismiss these charges if you show up in court with the appropriate paper work. You were still 'driving without a liscense and proof of insurance' and they will fine you accordingly. There are no 'fix it' tickets. Every v.c. code violation here has a fine. And you never know when or why you are going to get pulled over. When I was still working at Ralph's, I used to hit the 'sobriety check point' at least twice a month. They would check everything. Knowing that, why take the chance? It can't be too much different in the other states. California just happens to be one of the more greedy ones.:mad:

Isn't that a roadster setup? (I'm not going to comment on the other picture):sick:

It's just a matter of prefference. Lower 1st gear or higher 5th gear. I have a 82 trans in my 78 and it requires no modification which is to say the the hole you cut in your 70 would work for both of them. Unless the ZX trans is a T5.

They don't fail very often but they seem to have a tendency to be bad on cars that have sat for a long time without being started. The temperature is not as important as the signal. The one I'm looking as says 35 deg. C.-8 sec. Meaning that if the temp is below 35 the signal will be sent for 8 sec. If the temp is above 35 the signal won't be sent. When they stick they continue to send the signal and the car will run rich to the point of being undrivable because of the extra fuel.

The go on a bracket on the passenger side kick panel next to the fuse box.

The cold start valve gets it's signal from the thermotime switch if the engine is cold enough when you turn the ignition to the start position. The signal only lasts for about 8 seconds then the thermotime switch opens. If you're still getting fuel from the cold start valve at that point then it's leaking. But that is rare. Usually, the culprit in that circuit is the thermotime switch. Disconnecting the cold start valve only eliminates that part of the cold start system. Check the two terminals on the thermotime switch for continuity when the car is warm. If you have continuity at that point then the switch is bad. Richness can also be caused by the AFM being out of adjustment.

THANK YOU, MICHAEL!

First of all, I wasn't commenting on your post but rather a conglomeration of what I had read up that point. Yours just happened to be the last one at that point. You can read Mike's original post however you wish. To me, he's talking about Z's. IMO! You can continue to personally attack me if you get some kind of enjoyment from that. I wasn't attacking you nor will I. It's not my nature. But I will say that I am retired, very secure in my life and have no need to prove anything to anyone about who I am. I am more than done with this!

That's cool, I guess, if you like that sort of thing. I don't know if it has any real place on this site. There are many other wonderful cars in this world but we tend to focus on the 70-78 Z. I'm not knocking your or anyone else's taste in cars, to each his own. I just don't think this is the place.

With the proper extension (about 8"), socket and ratchet, you can get that bolt from the top. I have never had to get under the car to remove the starter on any L-engined car I've ever owned.

inline 6, I have a relay here. It's from a 240Z with a manufacture date of 9/71. It's rectangular with a two hole mounting bracket. It has a four prong male connector. The wires are yellow (or white) w/ black stripe, blue w/red stripe, black, and black w/red stripe. It says "JIDECO JAPAN" on the side opposite the mounting bracket. I can't see any numbers on it but it came from the location in the car as you decribed. If that's your relay, you can have it for postage.

Bill, if you haven't noticed any signs of damage, just drain the oil, change the filter, and refill it with the correct oil. I used to run ATF in the transmission of my motorcycles because I read somewhere that it makes them shift smoother. Not that that applies to your engine story.

I think 77 Z was referring to removing the speedo and tach. They both come out through the front which is why the dash cap gets in the way. Since the dash cap protrudes into the guage face holes, it would have to be removed before you can remove the speedo and tach. Then it's just a matter of unplugging the wiring and speedo cable, removing the fasteners and pushing the tach and speedo out towards the front of the dash. I hope I explained that clearly as the tach and speedo do not come out from behind the dash like the other three guages.

Why did you get rid of it? Was it a two door? I love my 79 810 2dr. I've seen one other one on the road since I've had mine. I've only seen two other 2dr 810s in the junkyard and one of them was my parts car that I sold to them! I see and occcasional 4 dr or wagon on the street or in the 'yards. Got any parts?

I took an old small phillips screwdriver, slightly smaller in diameter than the pins, and ground the tip off. I use it specifically to push in those pins. Of course, you still have to find them once you remove the panel.

You can remove the guages without removing the dash. It's difficult if not impossible to remove the speedo and tach with a half or full cap however because those caps extend into the cutouts in the dash for the guages.

The last thing you mention (turn signals) sounds like a bad flasher unit. How do your headlights/marker lights act when the key is in the lock or off position? If they still act the same as you described, then the problem is in the light switch/turn signal stalk itself. I'm assuming that you've checked the fuses.

Since we're doing 'show and tell', my 78 has the list in the attachment in the tool bag as well as the 4 lug nuts in a plastic bag that says 'CAUTION If your car is equipped with aluminum wheels, be sure to use the lug nuts in this bag for mounting Space Saver Spare Tire.' It has the NISSAN MOTOR with the logo between the words and on the other side I believe it says the same thing in kanji.

They have to be made of neoprene to be fuel and oil resistant. Not 'buna' or 'nitrile'. 'Your helpful hardware man'

I too have heard of people changing the timing cover seal on a 'L' engine without removing the timing cover but I've never tried it. The times that I have done it I had the cover off because I was doing other things to the motor.