sblake01

Unless the clip broken there's really no need to remove it. I actually think it's part of the design to keep them from falling inside the doors. If you're trying to remove a broken one, it's actually easier to pull the rod out of the clip, remove the handle from the car and then remove the clip from the handle.

But.....if the disc is rusted to the flywheel, even if you break it loose, what kind of shape would it be in? If it were me, I'd already have that tranny out. And probably back in w/a new clutch since the frist post was 2 days ago.

At best, it's a parts car and at $600 not a very desirable one. Lots of misinformation in the ad. 5-speed, If it's a has 5 speed, someone put it in there, Motor and clutch are good , Runs and drives good , I find those statements suspect as the pictures show improper and missing hook ups both under the hood and dash and a fuel pressure guage which would be used for troubleshooting but generally not left under the hood on a street car, Needs body repair inside and out , duh!, Rust on hood and tailpipe , and many, many other places, 1st year of 280Z , not!, Nice Deep-Dish Rims, deep-dish yes but nice? Maybe after a cleanup. But it does have nice covers on some of the hose clamps, a nice oil cap, and nice valve stem caps. I agree with Bob. The car needs prayer.

Translated that probably means that they don't have NGK B6ES or BR6ES spark plugs which work best in your car or any S30. What kind of spark plugs did they sell you? The brand of plugs wouldn't stop it from starting but they aren't 'better' than the oem type. Do the usual checks, spark, make sure it's getting fuel, etc. before you take it to a shop. If it ran 5 months ago, it just needs a little TLC to run again.

Looks like an aluminum version of the MGC/AH 3000 engine. I'd imagine it will be pricey. The head is $6800, the valve cover/rocker assembly is $3450, the manifold is $975 for tripple or twin S.U.'s, $1450 for tripple Webers, all in AUD, and you'd stiil need to buy the carbs. Lots of money for older school technology than our L series engines.

And if the plastic clip does break, I've seen those in the 'Help' section in the auto parts stores.

RJ, pull you fuel pump hose and put it into a container and crank the engine. If no fuel comes out of the line your pump is bad. Chris and the oil cooler thief....er, I mean FairladyZS30, your problems seem electrical (duh!) and only a complete troubleshoot will find them. You'd have to know what is supposed to take place electrically when the key is turned to the start position, and follow that path until you find what's not working. See your respective FSM's. The info you've both given so far is not enough for anything but a guess. You can let it frustrate you or seek a solution. It's a lot easier to do hands-on than hoping that someone will give you a magic solution on a fourm. I doubut that many of us have driven a car with a bad regulator long enough to explode the battery and I know I'd never pull the positive cable while the car was running. So, for me at least, those are uncharted waters. Good luck.

Double post.

Isn't that Prox's car? (The orange turbo)

The thread is three years old. The kid that posted the question had some kind of hack job oxygen sensor that was installed in the exhaust pipe behind the catalitic converter for whatever reason. And he possesed some misinformation. Nissan definately never put them there on any S30 or S130. On the S130, it was in the exhaust manifold. Nissan actually called it an 'exhaust gas sensor'. There is no provision in the pre-79 ECU to operate one. He had all kinds of other problems with the car and I'm not sure he ever worked them out since he hasn't posted here in over two years. But you're right. No sensor on a 280Z no matter what year or state.

Screwed into the block, passenger side, just ahead of the oil filter. EDIT: Jason is a faster typist!

You can take you car to a locksmith and have that ignition tumbler reworked to fit the new key. Or, you can take the tumbeler out yourself and take it to the locksmith.

There's no adjustment there on a 280Z. They have a non-adjustable push rod on the slave.

That's correct. The key should only come out in the 'lock' position. But after 30 plus years of wear they'll come out anywhere. My 78 only has just over 98000 original miles and it sat for nearly 5 years before I bought it which could explain the condition of the locks. I put a new lock set in the 810 4 years ago when I bought it.

Not on my 78 280 or the 810. Only on the old truck.

Oh, and Nissan parts.cc sells them for $13.65 ea. plus shipping. List price is $17.92 ea. so you won't find new ones for 'about $10 or less, each'. Now, I am SO done with this!

That's why I suggested calling. I have purchased from them many times over the last few years. I always check the availability first. I speak with Russell Moore, the Internet parts manager or Lisa Alexander the Internet director, no one else. They both will let you know whether a part is available or not and even how many they have in stock or have access to. And their prices are always lower than msrp. I bought things from them the some eBay seller claim are nla. All you need it part numbers. We're talking about a set of headlight rings here. Not carbureators, fuel injectors, suspension components or anything of that type of nature. How much research, discussion, debate, argument, etc. should that require? If you need them, just go get them by whatever means you deem proper for you, since you don't seem to impressed with much of what has been offered here. You seem to have an idea of how much you're willing to spend on them. I offered a suggestion. That's all. I wasn't looking for a discussion. When I decided I needed a new set, I didn't come here to bounce ideas off of the members of this site in order to help me make a decision. I did my research, and I went out and got them.

Okay then. What would be wrong with just reading the responses and using what you can use and disregarding what you can't?

I bought mine about three years ago at the dealer. 26023-89910 is the part number they should still be available. As I recall, the were about 15 bucks apiece. Try: http://www.nissanparts.cc/ Call them with the part number and they can tell you the status.

About the best diagram you'll find is in the 78 FSM. It's located on page ET-3. There are some things you can't see like anthing that's underneath what's shown. If you have any questions, I have a 78 the has the correct routing of anything you can't see in the diagram.

Interesting since there would be no earthly reason for it to be amogst 280Z parts. My cover came from the junkyard.

:tapemouth:tapemouth:tapemouth:tapemouth:tapemouth

Which switch are you referring to? Not the combo switch. If so, you need to let us in on where you're finding them for $20 other than in the junkyard.

In the 'Engine Fuel' section of the FSM there is a 'functional check' section. You find it on page EF-51 in the 76 FSM, EF-52 in the 77 FSM, and EF-30 in the 78 FSM. There are many pages in those sections covering all of the relay and switch functional checks. There is also some good info in the Fuel Injection 'Bible' that was available from the Atlantic Z site but for some reason, their link doesn't load anymore. Try: http://bjlvdesign.tripod.com/PDF/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf but this only applies to 75-77 as there are differences in the 78.

Should have checked with me. I had them up until about a year ago. In fact, I've had a set of each of the ZX wheels. 6 spoke, Iron Cross, Swastikas, even those ugly 80-84 Maxima alloys. None of them looked right to me on my car. But, as you say, presonal preference or opinion.