sblake01

I got mine to work by removing the sending unit and cleaning the contacts at the upper end on the float rod where it rides across the resistence bar or whatever you call that and checking for continuity at the warning light sensor connections when the float is all the way down. It has to be done carefully. Dont bend anything while youre working with the sending unit/float assembly. Once you have it out, like I said eariler, its fairly self-explanitory. Of course, make sure the bulb in the warning light is good before doing any of this.

Man! This thread took a severe left turn....and crashed!

I don't know, I like myself, but I wouldn't consider me, myself and I to be buddies. (ahhh......what?)

They're (the fuel light) pretty easy to fix. Just pull the sender and clean the contacts for the fuel light sensor attached to the float. It's pretty self-explainatory once you've got the sender out.

Ditto!

Karma can be a *****!

Wasn't that a ZED X from the 90's (not 80's) that won? Crikey!! (I thought that was an Australian saying)

Anything is possible. All it takes is money.

That's a shade under 60000 before mine. But you VIN is just under 163000 prior to mine. My engine is 275875 and it's the original engine and N47 head, build date 5/78. 78 didn't have the engine number on the VIN plate. Doesn't really answer your question but it might help establish a point of reference.

Well, I did only do it once. That was at least two years ago and I've had no problems with it since then. I can understand that making it a habit would shorten it's life.

It doesn't hurt the EFI fuel pump to run it dry. They're self-priming. May take a minute or so to start after you put gas in but it will start. BTDT! Also on my 78 (as well as on my 810) there's a low fuel light. I thought the 75-76 has that also. When I see that thing glowing red I don't waste time getting to a gas station. I've never really took the time figure out how much gas is left when it comes on but I'm sure it couldn't be more than about 1-1/2 gallons. At that point the needle is below the 'E' mark but not as far left as when the key is off.

I do believe that it's a complete system with it's own ducting and controls. It's a purpose built R134a system with the proper evaporator, condenser, seals, etc. for that type of freon which allows it to cool as well as any modern system. As I said, I've never installed one in a Z but I have seen them. I helpled my brother in law install one in his custom LT1 powered 58 Chevy wagon and I can tell you firsthand that it's coooooold! And I can relate to the heat. I live in San Bernardino, Ca. The present temperature as I type is 103 degrees. I wish I had more pictures of the install. Contact Vintage Air. They'll tell you exactly what is needed to put one of their systems in a Z.

I thought that there was some glitch with the answer I gave until I realized that you asked this question in two different threads.

Maybe I misunderstood what I read on Zcar.com. Or it was a different car he was referring to.

Not personally, but I've seen a few with the Vintage Air setup. Maybe a bit pricey, but it's about the best aftermarket sytem I've seem. I'm a tech and I did work on a 73 that had a V8 conversion a couple years ago. Basically his car had the old aftermarket system that was so common in the early Z back in the day, but he had the GM (AC Delco i think) compressor on it and I replaced it for him along with the receiver/drier and some hoses. It cooled a little better than the York compressor that system originally used, but not much better.

I sat that this morning too. I was going to post it but I figured that it's so 'non-stock', grille, trans, body kit, spoiler, steeering wheel, etc. Bad tail lights, cracked windshield, hasn't run for a year...........

A comment was made above about the BP6ES-11 or BPR6ES-11 being for the EFI cars. That would be B6ES-11 or BR6ES-11. No 'P' on the EFI cars which stands for projected tip. A projected style spark plug increases the firing tip temperature by 10°C to 20°C. I guess that isn't necessary on EFI cars but you carb guys should consider that when swicthing to electronic ignition. And it doesn't matter if you use the -11 or not since you're probably going to check/set the gap yourself anyway. I always do.

F.I.C.D. = Fast Idle Control Device. Basically what it does is speed up the idle when your air conditioning is on. I don't own a ZX. I have a 1978 280Z and a 1979 810. There are slight differences between the systems on my cars and ZX's. Also ZX's had two different engine control systems. The regular EFI system, and the ECCS system. I'm not at all familiar with the ECCS. It's more like a modern car with micro processors, crank angle sensor, air/fuel ratio feedback, more valves and sensors, etc. I'm hoping zbane will chime in here since he owns ZX's and seem to be quite knowlegable on them.

In SudZ's case, based on the way he posed the question, I'd say to make sure it's in neutral since he's talking about starting not driving.

Yeah, the FSM's call it either one. Throttle switch, or throttle valve switch depending on the year. The difference is that it just has the two sets of contacts and only works in those two positions while a true throttle position sensor operates throughout the entire range of throttle movement. To answer Nathan's question, yes. With a good throttle switch you'll have continuity at the idle contacts at your idle speed and as soon as you move the throttle to anything above idle it should go away. When the idle contacts are set properly, the full throttle contacts will also be right since there is no internal adjustement but I always check them too to make sure.

280ZX vacuum diagrams aren't that difficult to find. They're in the FSM Basically, anything 1974 and down is where it gets kind of sketchy.

Remove the connector from the Throttle Valve Switch and connnect a voltmeter. You'll need an old TVS connector, strip the three wires on it and connect your voltmeter there. Using the center wire as common, the front wire is the full throttle contact and the rear wire is the idle contact. The idle contact should be closed (continuous) when the throttle valve is at idle and open in any other position. The full throttle contact only opens when the throttle valve is at full throttle which is 35 degrees or more than the idle position and it's open whenever the throttle valve in any other position. When you've achieved these settings, tighten the screws, remove the tester and plug the cars connector back on. I highlited the name because it's not really a Trottle position switch or sensor as in the more modern EFI systems but, for some reason, people call them that.

A reminder about what?:classic:

Leaking cold start valve, bad thermotime switch, fuel pressure regulator, leaky injector(s), are things I'd check before proceeding to the ECU or AFM.

What you're saying is true. But for the original poster it's rather moot. A. He was dealing with a rather tired engine with a really bad combination of parts. B. He hasn't posted here in nearly three years.