sblake01

What rating does Courtesy list for the red link?

The 75-77 oil pressure switch should have only one terminal. The 78 would have two since the second one would be part of the 78 fuel pump circuit which differs from the 75-77 cars.

Are you sure you're looking at the oil pressure sending unit? There shouldn't be any wires coming from it, only terminal(s) for the harness to plug into.

That's an NVH damper. Read through this thread, basically posts 3, 4, and 5, which more or less explains it.

Different type of wire used than the original? As long as it's rating is correct it will work.

Those locks are anywhere from around 30 to nealy 40 years old, depending on the year of Z or ZX, so they ought to be pretty loose by now. I had all of my locks re pinned (or actually re wafered) and the only key that opens them now is the one that goes with the car.

As I recall, the blue wire goes to the antenna switch, the black is a ground, and the white and white/black are for the speaker.

Using water? If you don't see it leaking then you've got an internal problem. I once had a water pump shaft break on a 79 510 and it caused a small hole in the timing cover that allowed just enough coolant to seep into the engine and cause it to overheat but not enough to be really noticeable until it got worse. At that point, I thought I'd blown a head gasket until I removed the water pump and saw the damage behind it on the timing cover.

Try this: http://www.rallylights.com/useful_info/horn_wiring.htm

My, you've all been busy on this thread since I first saw it this morning! I'm not crazy about the text (or txt) thing either but that would just put it on a long list of 'modern' things that old guys like me either have to ignore or learn to live with because it appears that they are here to stay. Anyway, back to topic. Do they want you to move your car or just provide proof tht you own it?

I had to go to a weigh station which is generally used for commercial vehicles to get a weight certificate for a car that I was in the process of registering. That was some years ago. Now, at least here in California, all you'd have to do is fill out a 'Statement of Facts' form from the DMV.

That's neglect as opposed to inadequate maintenance.

Make sure your dad starts that car and runs it up to operating temp at least once a month. You know how bad it can be on the EFI/fuel system it they sit idle for too long. I see you've already changed your location. Simi is about 90 miles west of where I live. What college are you attending?

Now this lady probably doesn't care what type of bumpers an MGB had but they may have been in danger if they were the 5 mph bumpers that John spoke of.

Depending on how you drive, the 81-83 5 speed would probably be better because of the higher 5th gear. Basically just a bolt in but you have to use matching clutch components.

A shop will always charge a higher price for parts as they are in the business for the money. No calipers on the rear on an S30; they're drums. Could still be a brake hardware issue however but I'll defer to someone who's had that problem rather than guess.

That was Roswell, New Mexico, but I guess that those uninformed enough to ask about UFOs wouldn't know that.

According to the FSM, the fuel pressure should be 36.27 psi. The fact that you car has been sitting for 6 years likely has caused restrictions in the tank/lines due to the sediment build up from the old gas. I went through the same thing when I bought mine. You'll have to clean out the lines and clean or replace the tank.

Through 1977 the engine serial number was on the ID plate. For whatever reason, it's not there on the 78. The only place I've ever seen the engine numbers on a 78 is on the original paperwork and the guarantee card.

They do make ceramic and organic pads for S30s but I've also seen this note in most catalogs I've looked in:

The OEM pads were semi-metallic.

Looking at my 78 it appears that the mount towards the rear would match up with the existing stock mount and the front would fit in the clamp on the front mount. If it fits over the stock pipe, it shouldn't need any welding.

Never thought of that. That gives me another use for my pen cam which I had been using as a borescope. I recently sold my much more costly borescope because the pen cam creates better images and is much easier to use.