sblake01

I wouldn't be surprised if Vic knows what that means. I don't. Where you been?

This is just a shot in the dark but I thought I'd throw it in because it once happened to me. Is you car, by any chance, an automatic transmission? If not, everything I'm going to say can be disregarded. I once had an RX7 with an AT, and the vacuum diapraghm developed an internal leak. Since it works off of vacuum, it was pulling the slightest bit of ATF into the intake and causing the car to blow white smoke. It was an easy part to change, didn't cost much but I have no idea if the 280Z auto trans is set up the same. EDIT: Never mind. I just looked at one of you other posts and I see that yours is a 4 speed.

You can actually make your own if you have a tubing bender and a flaring tool.

That should work except that the light will be very dim if your tester has an regular bulb rather than a LED bulb. That's one of the changes I had to make on my test light.

It just takes time. I've spent years learning all that I could about this system, and I'm still learning. I could only find a few people who really know how to work on it. Like Elvan Meneses of Z Car Specialty in Upland, CA. and a few others. Luckily for us it wasn't based on the Bosch D or K-jetronic.

You might try posing that question to an AC shop. Lots of pressure runs through the evaporator core so any repair would have to be done well. I've never repaired one myself but I imagine it could be done.

Here's links to the EFI Bible and the 1975 FSM. Like others have basically said, I wouldn't be so quick to yank the AFM and replace it just yet before doing some further and proper testing. You say your shop teacher owns a 82 280ZX. I'm not knocking his knowlege; I don't know him. But his reference to the AFM as a MAFS would make me a bit leary that he really knows these cars. I know of quite a few good mechanics that stumble a bit when it comes to Nissan's JECS system which is an adaptation of the Bosch L-Jetronic EFI built by the Japan Electronic Control System Co., Ltd. which was a joint venture between Robert Bosch GmbH, Nissan Motor Co. and Diesel Kiki Co., Ltd. So it's really not the same as the German system though similar. It has Nissans modifications so the book that Danglybanger mentions, which I have somewhere, can be somewhat useful but not nearly as much as Nissan's publications.

It's nothing but some designers styling exercise and it has nothing to do with Nissan. It's been discussed to death here and on other sites. Nissan has no plans of producing this car or any other 'retro' 240Z and I doubt that they'd even be aware of this 'mock up'.

I would lean toward a. with an explaination. A stuck vavle, bad spark plug, or bad ignition wouldn't cause the injector not to click. Either the injector itself is bad, or somewhere in the connection to it is bad, either the connector itself or somewhere along the path of the two wires that run to it. With a device like a noid light (I made my own) you can plug into the connector and check for a signal. I also have another easy to make device that can be plugged onto the injector to check it's functionality. My tools may look kind of crude but they work. These were actually my 'prototypes' the finished ones look much better. These tools or something like them would be what you'd need:

That would depend on the car. I came across one in the high dessert area about 5-6 years ago, I believe it was number 103 IIRC. I briefly thought about buying it but there just wasn't enough of it left to do anything with. I don't regret not buying it.

I rest my case.

I was going to say that. I don't know how familiar your auto shop teacher is with the Datsun EFI system but it's fairly common for people not familiar with these cars to mis-diagnose these cars and throw parts at them in attempt to solve problems. I'd make sure all of the vacuum hoses are hooked up correctly and all of the electrical connections are good and then run the functional tests on all of the EFI components before changing out parts.

Did you regain the compression in #3?

Well, for me, that would be one of those things where since you going to have to pull it apart anyway to inspect it, I"d have a new disc, plate and t.o. bearing ready to replace what's in there now and hope that it's not a input or mainshaft bearing though those can be changed also.

Something else that I've found helpful are member webdawg1's (Joe) spredsheets. Download them and fill them out as needed. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19172

I doubt that the car pictured is a Datsun/Nissan color.

That's from the microfiche not the FSM. I don't use the carfiche microfiche so I'm not really familiar with it. For part numbers I use either the microfiche cd available through this site or the Nissan Fast program.

Those are the same. I just thought it would be easier to download it from xenon's site because you don't have to wait for it to become available as on carfiche. It's a service manual so you won't find part numbers in it. Once you've unzipped it, it opens with Adobe. I have Acrobat Profesionnal but at very least, you'll need the Adobe Acrobat Reader which is a free download from the Adobe site. http://adobe.9-download.com/?OVRAW=adobe&OVKEY=adobe&OVMTC=standard&OVADID=18323113522&OVKWID=4013017522

Forget carfiche. Since you have a 73, go here. You won't have to deal with it being temporarily not available.http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

I never said they would fit a 240.

Congrats! You may have to change your screen name:) Keep us posted on your progress.

Wow, that's 'interesting'! I stand corrected. Have you considered getting the proper ignition and returning it to the original setup?

The 77-79 was never called 'Maxima'. The A/T was always available on them reagardless of trim level. In the 1980 model year the 910 debuted but was badged as an 810 and continued through the 84 model year. I believe the Maxima name went on it in 81. It was RWD. The FWD V6 Maxima didn't appear until 1985.

When you get a chance, check and see if you 77 has the rest of the 78 electronics like the lack of fuel pump contact points in the AFM and the fuel injection relay under the hood instead of under the dash. Just curious. I helped a guy out with a 77 a couple of years ago with a 77 (6/77) and his car had all of the 78 stuff on it.

I've waffled back and forth about building the engine in my 810 since it's a daily driver. I decided to leave it stock. I can run 87 octane, get 25+ mpg, and go anywhere in it in air conditioned comfort......well as much comfort as a vehicle designed 30+ years ago will give.